How much to spend?

[Redcoat3340]

I've had eight pistols "worked on" by good smiths: a CS9, 5946 TSW (to convert from DA to SA/DA), a PX4c, a Sig 320 and P6, my BHP, a 4513TSW, CS45, and Sig 220 in .45.

Most were done 'cause I wanted them for carry and I wanted them smoothed out (more than I wanted a too light trigger).

But I've got at least another half-dozen I would love to have improved -- like a 6906 or 3953; or a Sig 226 .40 or Beretta 92.

But I'm beginning to wonder how much the investment in smoothing out the action or lightening the trigger will make me a better shot?

I'm not too bad now. My eyes ain't what they were 30 years ago (I'm 75 now but feel about 14) and I hit what I aim at out to 20 yards or so (my usual shooting max at my indoor range) and as much as I'd like to get some work done I'm wondering about other folks experience -- how much investment versus how much improvement they've seen.

All my guns are totally reliable, get maintained regularly, have had springs replaced, and I don't shoot +p or overpower handloads, just factory ammo and some self-defense loads to insure they feed.

Thoughts? Opinions?

 

[pantannojack]

Try DeCaff. get back to me.

 

[teletech]

Shooting the same gun more often is likely to make you a better shot than shooting a bunch of guns in rotation. I suspect spending the money you would have spent on tuning on ammo and shooting up that ammo is also likely a better investment. Taking classes from a good school is another spot where you are likely to see more improvement than tuning.
I guess if you are running a Bill drill in under 3 seconds or passing a Dufor Hat qual much of the time, then some better gear might take you to the next level, but a good quality factory gun that's been verified for reliability is pretty darned effective if you do your part!

 

[austintexas]

As old as I am, I have never had to take a revolver or pistol to a gunsmith to be tuned. If it had a bad trigger or was really inaccurate it went away. Couldn't see spending more money on an expensive fire arm. Only pistol I ever had worked on was a old GI 1911 while I was in the military and the Ssgt that helped me do a trigger job and tighten it up worked for free and I got free lessons. I had a 1916 Luger he told me how to tighten up the trigger linkage and It would shoot 6" groups at 100 yards. back against the shooting bench, both hands resting on my knees, aim at the top of the head on a silhouette target and rounds landing in the throat area shooting my reload.
SWCA 892

 

[Rpg]

There really are two issues here: 1) should you have your guns worked on; and 2) how can you improve your shooting.

I, for one, have a good number of guns that have been worked on. I enjoy them and enjoy the improvements. The improvements mace the guns more pleasant to shoot.

That being said, I shoot my 1911’s 80%+ of the time. It’s the time you spend with one gun that leads to improved shooting. That increase in skill will generalize a bit to other guns.

 

[AzShooter]

Beware the man with one gun. He probably knows how to use it.

I have a few guns. Those that I use for competition are modified but my guns that I carry for protection are just as they come from the factory. If my CCW guns don't fit my needs without modification I sell them and go to something else.

You have a few that you count on for protection and a bunch you have either for sport or just because you wanted them. Enjoy them the way they are. Most guns I've found do not need to be worked on unless you just want to do it.

There is nothing wrong with that.

 

[steelslaver]

I am a revolver guy and used to chase the perfect trigger pull. Then I started working on being the perfect trigger puller. while lighter triggers are nice, I think smooth and consistent beats light. I hate a trigger with a hitch, but if it is smooth I don't notice how heavy it is unless it is way out of line.

 

[StrawHat]

I am a revolver guy and used to chase the perfect trigger pull. Then I started working on being the perfect trigger puller. while lighter triggers are nice, I think smooth and consistent beats light. I hate a trigger with a hitch, but if it is smooth I don't notice how heavy it is unless it is way out of line.

Very much the way I look at it. Smooth trumps light every time.

Kevin

 

[chief38]

The best way to smooth out a gun AND to vastly improve shooting skills is to just shoot it! Constant metal to metal contact will wear in parts, eliminate small burrs and imperfections while you learn better shooting skills with that particular gun. Unless there is a specific issue with a gun, sending it off to a GS is usually not necessary and IMHO will shorten the life of the moving parts. A new gun (or one rarely shot) should be worn in and not worn out.

I’m not referring to spring changes here, but when metal is removed to “smooth a gun out” there will be less metal to wear in before something actually wears out or goes out of spec. If after 800-1000 rounds you still have a rough gun, then yes it’s time to investigate-but not something to do right out of the box. Just my opinion and one is free to do what he/she wants with his property and money.

 

[Redcoat3340]

Thanks all, your advice has made me think; and I think I'm gonna pass on getting any more guns worked on for now.
I've got all my main carry guns done already as well as one or two of my range pistols.

All I'll be doing is sending in a surplus/used Sig 226 in .40 for Sig's $150 special (cleaning, replace worn parts and springs, install night sights and I'll have them install a flat trigger if they have one for 226) and get an Apex duty kit for my stock M&P 1.0.

That'll be it. Money I woulda spent is gonna go for ammo.

Again, many thanks to all who posted.

 

[BE Mike]

Your eyesight will be a big drawback, especially if you have cataracts that haven't been addressed. Red dots can help. Trigger jobs can help, but you must put in the work to get your trigger control up to the point that the trigger job really helps. What are your accuracy goals regarding distance and group size?