"How To" for changing lever...

[amazingflapjack]

I have a large loop lever for my Winchester 94 AE that I need help installing, does anyone know of a book or video that addresses that? Thanks.

 

[bigwheelzip]

Didn't review, just grabbed the first one.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJtRmYg86E4[/ame]

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

The pivot pin in the bolt is the big problem, both getting it out and back in. The rest is pretty straight forward.

Ivan

 

[amazingflapjack]

I can't tell from these videos how the lever separates from the other part hooked to it-is it riveted? I don't want to start taking it apart without knowing what I will need to do.

 

[2152hq]

The pin that holds the lever in the bottom plate (and slops back and forth) is simply a press fit. Most have a serrated surface on them for a better hold when they are hammered into place.

I assume (bad thing to do I know) that the pin is driven in from right to left as the general rule is for pins and dovetails, ect.
So I drive them back out left to right.,,then assemble again right to left.
Maybe meaningless here, but habits are hard to break.

If the pin seems a bit loose going back in a you think it should be tighter in assembly to avoid it backing out during an Indian Raid shootout, a drop of green Loktite on one side of the hole will do it.

I've used a dot of superglue too,,the poor mans Loktite.
Assembly in one wack and it's there to stay. If you go slow on the assembly with SG, it'll freeze up in position half way in place and that'll be it. Takes heat from a soldering gun to loosen.
Not bad stuff actually except you have to work fast.!

 

[DWalt]

"Takes heat from a soldering gun to loosen."

Acetone will dissolve Super Glue easily.

I have taken several M94s apart, but it's been a long time. I think I just followed the directions in the NRA gun disassembly guide. Not the easiest gun to tear down, and I wouldn't do it unless absolutely necessary to replace a broken part, etc.

 

[2152hq]

Super Glue down in the threads of a fastener or in a pin secured in a hole.
It sets up near instantly when the threads tighten or the pin interference fit becomes tight.
It locks the screw or pin in tight.
Acetone on the surface won't undo them.

I'd guess soaking the parts in it for a while might, but it's easier to touch the head of the screw or the pin with the tip of a soldering iron to heat it up. Softens the SP and the two can be separated.
It takes more than a bit of heat to loosen them too.

Fakers will sometimes lock the screws into a gun inclu the wood screws securing the butt plate and trigger guard by S/G'ing them in place.
Not wanting to damage perfect looking screw slots and engraved screw heads,,that stops inquisitive prospective buyers from checking under & inside those metal parts for replaced items, new wood, refinishes, ect.
They won't budge with any normal screw driver attempts at removal.
Quick and simple.

>

The part you are removing to get the lever out is the 'Finger Lever Link Pin'
In these later mfg 94's, it's a press fit pin,, hammered into place . Nothing more.

Earlier mfg 94's (pre 1992??),,the part was called the 'Finger Lever Link Screw'
Obvious difference,,it was a screw with a slotted head that entered from the left side of the link to hold the lever in place.

* Winchester calls that lower pivoting part the 'Lever Link',,I call it the bottom plate..