How to freshen up stainless steel without polishing it

[Shoebox1.1]

So let’s say you get a used smith and Wesson revolver and want to spruce up the finish but don’t want it “polished”. Light flitz work or 0000 steel wool or what can be done shy of a bead blasting? I don’t want the “mirror polish” look ( on this one). I just want to make it as nice as I can doing it at home

 

[Racer X]

the standard solution is light grey industrial Scotch Brite pads used along the grain of the metal. Done gently, you can blend into the original factory finish. I have had great success with muzzle shineyness on stainless slides from holster guns. Usually ex LEO guns.

 

[stansdds]

Light gray Scotch Brite pads should work great for reducing the appearance of scratches and blending things into the S&W factory stainless appearance. I would not use steel wool, there is a chance of embedding tiny little bits of steel wool into the stainless surface and that can cause rust spots to form.

 

[SweetMK]

Where I worked in the 1980's, we had three RotoFinish machines.

Each machine had a different ceramic grit, one of those machines duplicated the S&W standard finish.

So, one inch sized ceramic stones of the correct grit bumping against the revolver part is what you are trying to duplicate.

 

[chief38]

Let me just add, a small amount of Flitz rubbed gently with the grain of the metal with a microfiber cloth or cotton T shirt for a small amount of time will freshen up to some extent and if done gently and not overly done, will impart a very soft satin sheen if that is what you want.

The advise about the gray scotchbrite pads (above) is a great way to approach it and usually does what you want.

 

[Shoebox1.1]

Awesome thanks fellas! Before and after pics very soon!

 

[mikerjf]

I just touched up a 637 cyl with the grey pad, worked great!

 

[Shoebox1.1]

Well I’m amazed with the ultra fine scotchbrite! I barely touched it and it made it look so much better! Thanks fellas. 686 no dash ( my first 686), the trijicon night sights were dead and not “correct” on the gun Imho. I filed down the front sight and put first coat of paint on it. Restored the eBay presentation stocks and ready to shoot other that cyl sticky opening on couple chambers. I think the ejector rod is bent- need to find one of those

 

[UNCLE PAULY]

Mothers Mag and Wheel polish on white cotton.

You can brighten up as little or as much as you want.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

About 20 years ago I received a S&W 686 2.5" in a trade deal. Former LE carry piece, carried a lot and shot very little, mechanically perfect but rough appearance.

Local gunsmith did a light bead blast job that looked very nice. Charged me $40.

Last time I saw it was when my younger son decided it should go home with him. These things happen a lot, two grown sons, 9 grandchildren, 7 great-grandchildren.

 

[Alk8944]

I would not use steel wool, there is a chance of embedding tiny little bits of steel wool into the stainless surface and that can cause rust spots to form.

This is another internet myth, a pure fable! First, "steel wool" is not steel, it is soft iron. Being softer than the gun's steel material makes it impossible for anything to be embedded in the steel surface! The truth is that the final step in finishing stainless steel is "Passivation". The purpose of passivation is to remove any microscopic free iron atoms/molecules from the surface of the metal exposed by manufacturing processes, including whatever polishing was done. When you polish the stainless guns you remove the microscopic layer of the surface that is the result of passivation which again exposes the free iron which is what makes the surface more susceptible to rusting. Fortunately normal care of the gun, keeping the surfaces lightly oiled or waxed, usually is adequate to reduce the chances of rusting as a result of removal of the passivated surface.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

USE the Mothers the next time.