I frame nickle finish repair

[Harold45-]

I just bought an I frame 32 S&W Long. Nickle plating is in bad condition. It is a 3.5 in barrel Hand ejector 2nd change, I think. made between 1906 and 1909 as I have read in the S&W 4th edition. action is tight so sure it will fire OK. Is there any way to repair the finish, or do I leave it alone? Ser# 71359. I am just going to have it for a shooter. Not a collectable piece I suspect.

 

[clang444]

If its just a shooter, polish it with Flitz or another metal polish until the bare metal is shiny. It will look fine.

 

[jmiles1960]

I like these old S&W's with real life character. I would clean it up and enjoy it. I have seen way worse. You have nice piece there. Don't forget to clean up the grips with some Formby's oil or similar wood finish product. She'll look like a million bucks! (well almost..). Enjoy!

 

[Harold45-]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will look for Flitz.

 

[Hondo44]

Nice find.

Mother's mag wheel polish is also excellent. You'll be amazed at how good it will look. A couple of evenings while watching TV will be well spent.

By the way, the barrel is 3 1/4". The Magna walnut grips are from ~1951 to 1960 and a big improvement over the standard service grips that came on it originally.

 

[Harold45-]

Thanks Hondo44. The grips are not numbered to the gun, but I guess you knew that. Frame, barrel, cylinder and extractor number all match. Yes a 3.25" barrel as I mis typed earlier.

 

[Harold45-]

One more question I had is concerning the hammer. On single action the hammer comes all the way back and latches in place till I pull the trigger. In double action the hammer only comes about half way back before releasing to strike the primer. I have not shot this gun yet, so not sure if it strikes the primer with enough force. I guess I will find out. Does anyone know if this is standard operation with this model gun?

 

[Alk8944]

So far as Nickel plating is concerned, it cannot be "repaired". You can polish it with one of many different paste type polishes as others have said, or buff it with a soft cotton wheel and jewelers rouge. Once plated a Nickel finish must be stripped either chemically or electrolyticaly as Nickel cannot be plated over Nickel. If during a plating operation an article is removed from the plating bath, even momentarily, it must be re-stripped and the plating process begun again. Nickel will not plate over Nickel.

Regarding the double-action. The hammer should come back about 90% to the single-action full cock position. Without being able to handle and examine the gun I have no idea what would be causing what you describe.

And, BTW, the early I-Frame hand ejector guns had odd length barrels, 3 1/4, 4 1/4, etc.

 

[Harold45-]

Thanks, Alk8944. I did buff the gun with my Drehmel and a cotton wheel and polishing compound. It looks better but may need to buff it some more. Still haven't shot it to see if hammer strikes the primer hard enough in double action.

 

[jimmyj]

Fords in Crystal River, Florida

 

[Harold45-]

I bought some Metal Rescue rust remover. Can I emerse the complete gun minus the stocks in this rust remover, or do I need to completely dissemble it? I am not sure I can remove the hammer and trigger parts, but probably can. I understand about the springs and pulling parts straight off of the pins they rotate on. Have watched several videos on disassembly and would have to make the tool to remove the rebound slide, which I can do. Most of my mechanic work has been on larger items. I could have a smith take it apart for me if I need to and then soak the frame and cylinder to remove the rust. The old gun is nickel plated with many rust places on it.