i just upgraded to a 4506

45calibre

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hey im new here and i just got a 4506. i upgraded from a sigma .380. the gun was used and could use a good cleaning. what should i use to clean frame? theres dirt between the slide serrations and dust on the muzzle from firing it an elsewhere on the frame.

i also put 60 rounds of WWB 230 grain FMJs through it today. this will be for CC and i will be getting a crossbreed supertuck holster. what holster do some of you guys use for CC?


also is there suppose to be a gap between the top of the slide and the chambe when the slide is all forward?
 
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hey im new here and i just got a 4506. i upgraded from a sigma .380. the gun was used and could use a good cleaning. what should i use to clean frame? theres dirt between the slide serrations and dust on the muzzle from firing it an elsewhere on the frame.

i also put 60 rounds of WWB 230 grain FMJs through it today. this will be for CC and i will be getting a crossbreed supertuck holster. what holster do some of you guys use for CC?


also is there suppose to be a gap between the top of the slide and the chambe when the slide is all forward?
 
If you're referring to a slight gap between the barrel hood and the breech face, it's not an issue. Many auto pistols generally use the sides of the rear face of the chamber area to mate to the breech face.

Use your general cleaning products.
 
By all accounts you found yourself a great pistol.

I too just picked up a big frame S&W that's pretty similar -- the 1026.

It has the same gap between the rear of barrel extension of the chamber and slide. Since the gap appears to be behind the breech face and the pistol fires fine I've not worried about it. Perhaps someone her will say otherwise.

I think that you can use pretty much any gun cleaner to get the weapon cleaned up. I tend to like the Hoppes/Castrol Gunscrubber for getting off lots of crud easily maybe with an old toothbrush to help. I would keep most cleaning stuff away from the grips, just because I'm not sure how well the older synthetics stand up to them.

Mine was already pretty clean so I just wiped it down with Breakfree and a little rubbing where some stuff had built up under the grips.

I don't have the physical build to consider CCing a pistol that big, except maybe in our limited winter months. In that case I'd consider a canted belt holster (pancake type) rather than IWB. That, however, is my issue. If you have the build for it, I've only heard good things about the crossbreed holsters.
 
well im not that big , about 5'7" and kind of stocky but i should be fine with the crossbreed. i wanna carry IWB because its more comfortable. and it'll keep it from showing as much. also what it the point af a canted position? wouldnt it be better if it was just straight down?
 
Originally posted by dennis40x:
One of the few pistols that out Glocks the Glock in reliability.
P1010045.jpg

which model is that? my 4506 came with fixed sights.
 
That's a 4506 first year production that I upgraded. The original rear sight was replaced with a Novak that came on later models (requires machining of the slide). I also contoured the trigger guard from the concave configuration.
 
Originally posted by junior431:
Originally posted by 45calibre:
thats left hand?

Are you serious? It's a right hand holster.
I can see why 45calibre is serious. I'm still having a little trouble (after looking at it a dozen times) figuring out if it's a RH OWB or a LH IWB. I've never seen a belt loop quite like that on an OWB holster, but plenty of similar-looking IWB clips.
 
That's an OWB "clip on" holster, works like a paddle except it's more like a big paper clip.

Best cleaner I've found for my Stainless guns is undiluted Simple Green... no kidding, it cuts through all of the gunk and the gun comes out looking new. I wish I had some "before" pics of this 629-4 I bought used.

When I brought it home, the underside of the top strap, forcing cone and barrel end, cylinder face and everything else in front of it was just absolutely crusted black, like it was never cleaned.

An hour worth of soaking in simple Green with some brushing with a stiff nylon brush, and....

RH629-4.jpg
 
Gunhacker posted:
That's an OWB "clip on" holster, works like a paddle except it's more like a big paper clip.
Thanks. After looking at it a few more times I do see that the thumb break is oriented for a right-hander (should have noticed ealier).

I've used Simple Green for a lot of things, including carpet cleaning and degeasing my garage floor. Even the guy that built my custom bicycle frame recommended the spray-on, foaming version for cleaning that. However, I never would have thought to soak a handgun in it.

What do you do afterwards to get it all out and relube the innards?
 
I have actually used it as an inside waistband with the butt forward. Not ideal, but worked ok when I had nothing else for my 1076.
I works good for when you will be having to remove the gun to go inside the Post Office or other no carry zone, then you can just slide it back on your belt.
 
Originally posted by 45calibre:
well im not that big , about 5'7" and kind of stocky but i should be fine with the crossbreed. i wanna carry IWB because its more comfortable. and it'll keep it from showing as much. also what it the point af a canted position? wouldnt it be better if it was just straight down?
Sorry, just noticed this part and wanted to respond.

For me, canted holsters are part personal preference and part just plain geometry.

I just plain prefer canted holsters in general. All four of my current carry holsters are canted and any future ones that I buy will be also to maintain my consistency of draw. Having the butt forward helps the barrel ride down the back of my hip and helps me to tuck the butt into my side and stay concealed better (I can't hide a lot as I'm 6'-1" and 165 lbs.).

The simple geometry part is that the more cant, the less vertical height of the weapon being concealed. Therefore, the less (shorter) shirttail/coattail needed to conceal the bottom (barrel) of the weapon. Just as an example, if you cant the weapon at 22° (about what I usually get in custom holsters) and the barrel is 5", the vertical drop of that canted barrel is about 4½". That's just another one-half inch you don't have to worry about hiding.
 
Bill... I rinse the gun liberally in hot water, as hot as I can stand it, and then while my wife isn't looking, it goes in the toaster oven pre heated and set to the lowest temp (200), for about 20 mins to ensure everything dries throughly. Then I lube the key areas with a pinpoint oiler.

I don't do this routine everytime I clean a gun, it's only just for the times when I buy a used gun that's really crusted up.

With revolvers, I do pop the side plate so I can oil the pins and bosses the hammer, trigger and cylinder stop ride on, and also give the innards a check. I also remove the crane & cylinder from the frame and pull the cylinder from the crane to make sure no moisture is hiding in the various nooks and crannies of the cylinder.

For pistols I just field strip.

I also handle blued guns differently, I don't depend on just air drying like I do with stainless guns... learned my lesson with a 10-7 I bought. I popped in the toaster oven and when I took the side plate off to oil, I was rewarded with lockwork parts with light oxidation.

A lot of people cringe when I mention that I use Simple Green & water to clean really grungy guns, and then I remind them that hot water has been the standard method for cleaning black powder revolvers for years... so why not "smokeless" powder guns?
 
Gunhacker thanks for the elaboration.

I may have to give that a try. I don't often buy crusted up guns nor let mine get that way. However, every once in a while I'll shoot my 480 Ruger Raging Bull a little too much in one session and the residue is a bear. Some Simple Green might do the trick.

Regards,

Bill
 
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