I need advise on how to clean lead out of Model 17

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

I recently picked up a model 17-4, so leaded up that I can't even get my range rod down the bore. I have cleaned and cleaned, brass brushes all sorts of lead remover bore cleaners and J.B. bore paste. I don't think they make a Lewis lead remover for .22 cal? Short of using mercury what can I do? I should know that if you get a good buy on a revolver something is going to be wrong. It's obvious that the previous owner poured thousands of rounds through this revolver without ever cleaning it!

 

[weatherby]

Or shot a box of thunderbolts through it.
Plug the bore let the solvent really work brush and repeat if necessary.

 

[series guy]

I cut a Lewis lead remover disc in half or a bit less and push it down the barrel with a jag. Works very well.

 

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

I'll try this and I have extra disc's, good idea!

 

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

I have a box of CCI Copper-22, 1850 FPS that I think I'll try.

 

[Heinz]

I use Series Guy's technique with the Lewis brass patches. They work for me.

 

[Heinz]

I have a box of CCI Copper-22, 1850 FPS that I think I'll try.

And then you can complain about difficult extraction from the tight chambers. It is a precision built target pistol. Treat like one and it will preform for you forever. Cram those HiPerformance rounds through a Ruger single six

 

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

I used two halves of the Lewis screen, it worked like a champ and my K22 range rod now slides down the bore like it should. It's been a long time since I used a Lewis Lead Remover (.38 wadcutter days, back in the 70s and 80s) It's amazing how sharp the rifling came out even with the improvised screens and cleaning jag and rod. Thanks for the info...

 

[LoboGunLeather]

First: New bronze bore brush used dry (no solvents), working slowly and methodically for a dozen or more passes to allow the bronze bristles to cut through the accumulated leading. Bronze is much harder than lead, but much softer than the steels used in your revolver, so this cannot cause any harm in any way.

Then: Normal cleaning with solvent and patches.

Next: Assuming residual leading that the new bronze bore brush will not remove, try an old worn bore brush wrapped with strands of 0000-grade steel wool, another dozen or so passes through the bore. Again, steel wool is much harder than lead but much softer than the steel used in your revolver, no harm at all.

Follow with the usual solvent and patch cleaning exercises.

Note that I have specified 0000-grade steel wool, the finest grade you will find. You can rub the blued finish of your vintage S&W revolvers all day long without damage to the bluing.

Learned this method at the post armory at Fort Benning, Georgia, on a working detail cleaning US and foreign weapons heavily used in training, including Commie-bloc steel-jacketed bullets fired on full-auto all day long. Worked 50 years ago in harsh examples, works just as well today with a little bit of accumulated leading.

 

[dfariswheel]

Three good methods of removing stubborn, heavy leading in .22's are......

1. Apply a good slug of Kroil in the bore and let soak a couple of days.
The super penetrating Kroil will infiltrate under the leading, loosen and lift it so it can be brushed out.

2. Cut a patch from a "lead-away" cloth and use it with a standard jag that you stick in the patch.
Start out with a small patch and work up in size as the leading comes out.
If necessary you can use a loop type jag and PULL the patch through.

3. Instead of a standard bore brush use a 5.56-.223 AR-15 bore brush.
These are larger and stiffer then .22 caliber brushes and do a great job.
PULL the brush through the bore to prevent the cleaning rod from flexing and bending.

 

[hogblue]

I use choreboy copper cleaning scrubs wrapped around a used bronze brush. Cuts the lead out like butter. Make sure you get the all copper. Check it with a magnet. Can be purchased at Walgreens. Just use scissors to cut some out of the scrubbing pad to wrap around your brushes.

 

[stansdds]

I am also a fan of using pure copper Chore Boy scrubbing pad material wrapped around a bore brush. Works really well, it is also known as the poor man's Lewis Lead Remover.

 

[Rifleman200-10X]

Plug the muzzle, stand it up vertical, and fill the bore with Kroil. let it sit for a day or two, then a bronze brush likely will push it all out. I bought a Model 15 that was heavily leaded, I tried this method, and when I uncorked the barrel to dump the Kroil out, some of the lead actually slid out on its own, in long strands. A brush and a few patches got the rest.

 

[LittleCooner]

I use Kroil along with J B Bore paste and bronze brushes. Sometime it takes a lot of work to remove all the lead, but in the end, it will come out. I do use patches I cut from a lead out rag sometimes.

 

[gwpercle]

A long soak in Ed's Red Bore Cleaner and a Lewis Lead Remover are your friend's .
Do a search for the Ed's Red Bore Cleaner Recipe ... 4 simple ingredients fron Wally Mart = 1 gallon for less than $20.00 .
Hint ... in the mix use non synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid ...
The Synthetic ATF doesn't mix with the other ingredients and separates ... use regular GM Dexron .
One of the better cleaners you will ever use ... try it !
Gary

 

[Jeff423]

Every time I read one of these threads I'm glad I still have my electronic bore cleaner and a couple of gallons of the lead and copper solutions.

 

[Baxter6551]

FYI. Don't use "lead wipe away" cut patches on blue guns. They will take blueing off. Package notes for stainless guns only.