If I send a model 10-10 to Smith to repair...

[stonebuster]

If I sent a model 10-10 in for repair will Smith convert it to a transfer bar/new hammer set up like the newer models even if I want it left alone. If so I'd find a gunsmith instead. I know Ruger has that policy for liability/safety reasons.

 

[armorer951]

There is no transfer bar in the model 10's with the frame mounted firing pin. (or any other S&W) Depending on the issue with the gun, repairs will be confined to fixing the specific problem and replacing worn or damaged internal parts if needed.

 

[stonebuster]

There is no transfer bar in the model 10's with the frame mounted firing pin. (or any other S&W) Depending on the issue with the gun, repairs will be confined to fixing the specific problem and replacing worn or damaged internal parts if needed.

Thanks, I was just enlightened on another forum. A "gunsmith" at my range commented on my 10-10, which I bought there, as being the only one out of the 10 they had which had no transfer bar. I told him they had 10-8s with the hammer mounted firing pin like my 10-10 and he said ya but mine was the only one w/o transfer bar. This confused me because I couldn't understand how you could have both a transfer bar and hammer mounted firing pin. I was told he was great with revolvers but apparently he knows little about the 6 million model 10s that were made. He also told me that a side plate screw I was missing was the same screw as the one forward of it(yoke screw) which I argued with him about.

 

[Sevens]

Well you can definitely have a revolver with a frame mounted firing pin AND a transfer bar... that's how Ruger revolvers are designed. S&W however uses no transfer bar. S&W does employ a hammer block, which can be mistaken for a transfer bar when you peer top down inside a cocked revolver... if you aren't familiar with the design.

 

[jtcarm]

Someone’s got it confused with Ruger.

If you send Ruger a pre-1973 revolver for work, they might install the transfer bar, I don’t know if that’s their policy.

 

[RMFnLA]

S&W does employ a hammer block, which can be mistaken for a transfer bar when you peer top down inside a cocked revolver... if you aren't familiar with the design.

This (they want 10 characters).

 

[Sevens]

If you took apart a S&W revolver and yanked the hammer block out and left it on the work bench and reassembled, you'd likely never know it was missing (well, unless you dropped a loaded revolver and something went horribly wrong...) but if you pulled the transfer bar from a Ruger revolver and left it out of the gun, that revolver would never fire again.

If you send Ruger a pre-1973 revolver for work, they might install the transfer bar, I don’t know if that’s their policy.

That is definitely their policy, and they send your revolver back with new parts installed and your original parts in a bag. Most folks who enjoy Ruger single action hoglegs are in the camp that the old design allowed for a far better trigger and, well, experience overall, but everyone typically agrees that the modern transfer bar system used in Ruger single actions is a much more safe design.