Inherited K38 special

[Sniggins]

Could anyone help me identify an inherited S&W K38? Serial number on grip bottom is 390728, on the yoke is 11576.
Thanks

 

[JP@AK]

That would be K390728, and it probably shipped in 1960. At that serial number, it should be marked MOD 14 in the yoke cut.

 

[Goony]

On the other hand, if it's simply a K-frame Military & Police with the non-prefixed serial number 390728, it'd have most likely shipped in 1922. We really need a picture or two here, including of that number on the butt.

 

[Muley Gil]

Welcome to the Forum.

As noted, a picture of the butt would be helpful. Actually, pictures of the entire handgun would be even better.

 

[Sniggins]

Ok, here are a couple pics

 

[Sniggins]

Also, apologies, I transcribed 2 numbers. On the yoke is 390278.

 

[JP@AK]

Sniggins

That number (390278) is on the butt, not the yoke. The number on the yoke is irrelevant.

As Goony stated, you have a .38 Military & Police revolver that probably shipped in 1922, perhaps a year earlier. The absence of Made in U.S.A. on the frame indicates production was prior to about mid-year 1922.

 

[Sniggins]

Thanks

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

Ok, here are a couple picsView attachment 775968View attachment 775969View attachment 775970View attachment 775971

My condolences on your loss.

Great pictures, so early 1922 revolver. It appears to be well maintained. A good cleaning and lubricant and you will be good to go. I recommend shooting just standard velocity lead bullets.

 

[MelvinWalker]

Nice looking M&P.....As Sgt. Rock says, a little cleaning and it looks great...Maybe some bronze wool and light oil.

 

[Sniggins]

Will do.

 

[Muley Gil]

Thank you for the pictures.

As noted above, you have a .38 Military & Police revolver from the 1920s and it is built on the K frame.

A K38 is also a .38 built on the K frame, but it would have adjustable target sights.

 

[greenwellg]

Stabilize the rust but no abrasive cleaning.

 

[waelkhntr]

@greenwellg, how does one "stabilize the rust" without removing?
Always interested in learning something new.

Terry

 

[glowe]

Welcome to the Forum. Maybe a little help on your thread title. Smith & Wesson developed the K frame revolver in 1899 and it was produced well after WWII, so over a 55 years. After the war, the company came out with the Masterpiece line. They were all target revolvers in three calibers and their serial number was changed to a "K" serial number and name was changed to K "22, 32, or 38" Masterpiece. Pre WWII guns did not use the K in their serial number until the introduction of the K22 Masterpiece in 1940.

Your revolver would not be referred to as a "K" gun. but rather had the name 38 Military & Police, Square Butt (dee attachment from 1923 catalog. Collectors call it a 38 Military & Police, 4th Change made from 1914 to 1942.

 

[greenwellg]

Just spray something like Kroil or even regular oil to protect the active corrosion. To eliminate the rust blooms, where it is raised above the original surface, I use my fingernails to "scrape" the blooms themselves without damaging any of the remaining finish.
Let the oil soak for a few days before any scraping. I have used a nickel to get some serious patinated surfaces. The OP's gun does NOT need that.

 

[waelkhntr]

Just spray something like Kroil or even regular oil to protect the active corrosion. To eliminate the rust blooms, where it is raised above the original surface, I use my fingernails to "scrape" the blooms themselves without damaging any of the remaining finish.
Let the oil soak for a few days before any scraping. I have used a nickel to get some serious patinated surfaces. You gun does NOT need that.

Thank you,
Terry

 

[X1lightening]

@greenwellg, how does one "stabilize the rust" without removing?
Always interested in learning something new.

Terry

In order to remove rust without the bluing use bronze wool. It doesn’t leave scratches with lots of oil as you rub lightly on rust areas. Just take your time. Most rust treatments might take the bluing off with light applications.