I recently starting reloading .38 special using a Classic Lee Turret Press w/ a 4-carbide die set. I'm using w/ W231 at 3.1 grains for a 158 grain LSWC ( from Missouri Bullet co). I'm not convinced that I have the crimping die set correctly as I do not see a crimp where the top of the case abuts the nose side of the cannelure .( Min. OAL is 1.475 according to Hodgdon, I'm getting 1.478 on my rounds using a vernier caliper) Lee's directions that come with the die set leave a lot to be desired. I've shot a couple of test rounds out of my 28-2, but I would really like to make sure I have this last step correct. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and expertise.
Is crimp die working properly ?
- Thread starter Zackary
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Beemer-mark
Member
If your bullets are not backing out when you fire the revolver I'd say you the proper crimp.
Picturers would help, but like the poster above said.....
Too, you should be able to see your crimp, and feel it with a fingernail edge.
It is more important to have a very good bullet pull, than it is to have a tight crimp, especially on a cartridge as mild as the load that you stated. Your expander plug should measure .004"-.005" under bullet diameter. You will get a much better bullet pull, which in turn creates better ignition, and usually lower ES numbers, and generally better accuracy.
Too, you should be able to see your crimp, and feel it with a fingernail edge.
It is more important to have a very good bullet pull, than it is to have a tight crimp, especially on a cartridge as mild as the load that you stated. Your expander plug should measure .004"-.005" under bullet diameter. You will get a much better bullet pull, which in turn creates better ignition, and usually lower ES numbers, and generally better accuracy.
shovelwrench
Member
Give us a picture.....
You should see the case mouth bell is removed, AND, the inside of the case mouth should be near touching the cannelure.
You should see the case mouth bell is removed, AND, the inside of the case mouth should be near touching the cannelure.
BruceM
Member
When loading for revolvers, OAL dimensions are of dubious value in my view. Bullets must be seated so that the crimp is applied to the bullet's cannelure or to the correct place in the crimping groove. The loaded rounds must then be checked to be sure that they will fit properly in the revolvers cylinder without protruding past the cylinder's face. If you use appropriate loading techniques such as starting with lower charges and working up, variances, within reason, from listed OAL's are mostly immaterial. The exceptions in revolvers are extremely long SWC bullets such as the 173 grain Keith style .357 which may need to be crimped over the front driving band in order for it to fit in some guns. This requires that special consideration be given to charge weights because of the reduced effective case capacity when seating the bullet this deeply. Lyman's load data for this bullet used to note the above.
Loading for rifles and all autoloaders is a different story but for revolvers, seat the bullet to correctly crimp in the cannelure or crimp groove & check loaded round for function. Build a dummy round to test if you wish, start low and workup. Don't worry too much about OAL's carried out to .001 of an inch.
Bruce
Loading for rifles and all autoloaders is a different story but for revolvers, seat the bullet to correctly crimp in the cannelure or crimp groove & check loaded round for function. Build a dummy round to test if you wish, start low and workup. Don't worry too much about OAL's carried out to .001 of an inch.
Bruce
If you are using all 4 dies, seat your bullet with the seating die up to just a fraction below the top edge of the cannelure.(crimp groove)
Screw the factory crimp die in until it touches the shell holder (the ram is all the way up) Now back it down and put a loaded round in and raise the ram up and turn the adjusting screw in until you feel it touch the mouth of the case (basically it stops)
Now back the ram down and turn the adjusting screw 1/2 turn for light crimp or 1 full turn for a heavy crimp. Put a marker line on the adjustment screw so you can see how far you turned it.
I usually split the difference and turn it 3/4 of a turn.
You should see the brass crimped into the groove.
If you can take some pictures that would help.
Screw the factory crimp die in until it touches the shell holder (the ram is all the way up) Now back it down and put a loaded round in and raise the ram up and turn the adjusting screw in until you feel it touch the mouth of the case (basically it stops)
Now back the ram down and turn the adjusting screw 1/2 turn for light crimp or 1 full turn for a heavy crimp. Put a marker line on the adjustment screw so you can see how far you turned it.
I usually split the difference and turn it 3/4 of a turn.
You should see the brass crimped into the groove.
If you can take some pictures that would help.
Steve C
Member
Your crimp should look something like this for the 158gr LSWC.
Just for comparison, these were some I loaded that were not crimped enough and would move if press down hard on a the workbench. The bullet would also move out on recoil while in the cylinder.
BruceM
Member
OCD1, what is the diameter of your expander plug and the diameter of your cast bullets?
Curious.
Bruce
Curious.
Bruce
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