Is it possible to relace a hammer Stud?

[cjk1911]

I have a modle 28 that was given to me with a broken hammer stud. Is it possible for the home gunsmith to replace the stud? What is the procedure even if it is not possible for me to do on my own? Thank you for any information.

 

[S&W ucla]

I had one break on a model 60 and returned it to the factory where it was
repaired quickly and under warranty. Some older models utilized screw in studs but yours I believe is pressed in and buffed where it sticks through the frame. Best bet would be to call S&W and see what they would do.

 

[scooter123]

IMO, you should let S&W do the work on it. The model 28 is rare enough that that I would not risk causing further damage with a repair fouled up by an amateur without the proper fixturing or tools.

 

[charleswayne]

Replacing the stud is rather easy, but the gun will have to be reblued and S&W would be you best bet

 

[cjk1911]

Replacing the stud is rather easy, but the gun will have to be reblued and S&W would be you best bet

Thanks for the replies.

That is what I figured as far as the refinish goes. Even if it is refinished I may refinish it at some point with Cerakote. I am looking for a shooter and not a safe queen. The 28 was a PD gun and the finish is not bad but it has some holster wear. I have also had the idea of trying to find a .45 ACP cylinder and barrel and changing calibers, but I figured the parts may be hard to come by.

I may send it back to Smith anyway. Still the question is how is the old stud removed and the new one installed?

 

[dfariswheel]

Stud replacement is done with a bench top press device, special contoured brass, aluminum, or hard plastic or fiber support dies for the frame, and special punches that support and align the stud.

To remove the stud, a support die that's contoured to fit into the frame and support as much of the frame around the stud hole as possible is put on the base plate.
The frame is put on the die and a special punch with a face shaped to fit that particular stud is put in the press.
The press is used to press the stud out, which drops through the hole in the support die.

To install, a flat faced support die shaped to fit as large an area on the outside of the frame around the hole as possible is installed in the base and the frame is positioned.
The support die has a shallow hole to clear the excess stud head.
A hollow punch is installed in the press and the new stud is inserted into the punch and positioned in the frame hole.
The press base and die and punch aligns the stud with the frame at a perfect 90 degrees to prevent a tilted stud or a damaged or over sized frame hole, and the stud is pressed in.

The outside of the stud is contoured as needed or polished flat to the frame and the frame is refinished.

Some pointers:
NEVER try to drive a stud in or out with a hammer and punch, and never try it without the correct frame support dies or the frame will be bulged or distorted and the stud holes can be enlarged.

The insertion punch is not only hollow, the inner edge of the punch opening is contoured to fit the step on the stud so as not to stress the stud.

 

[Alk8944]

Depending on period of manufacture hammer studs can be screwed in, pressed and staked in, or induction brazed into the frame. Either of the latter (all HPs fall in these types) methods result in a stud extremely hard to remove without proper tooling, and the frame must be re-finished after the stud is replaced.

A "Competent" gunsmith, of well above average ability, could manufacture a new screw in stud. That said, these are far between and get big bucks for their time. S&W can do the repair and re-finish at a far more reasonable price, and a lot less time, than any of the smiths capable of properly fabricating and installing a replacement stud. There is no way this a "home gunsmithing" project.

Having a HP with an old-style round ended, screwed in, stud like the pre-war guns would be an interesting conversation piece though.

 

[cjk1911]

dfariswheel and Alk8944

Thank you and all others for the replies.

The reply that dfariswheel gave is what I was looking for. Exactly how it's done. I'm not even going to attempt it. Back to Smith and Wesson. At least I know how it's done now.

 

[maxbnc]

I sent a model 66-2 back to the factory several months ago, for the same thing, and it was returned as not repairable. Of course it had been subjected to moisture for a number of years, and did have other problems.

 

[cjk1911]

maxbnc

Thanks for adding to this. What else was wrong with your revolver? This was something that I was concerned with also.

 

[maxbnc]

Of course I will be glad to offer more info.
It had been subjected to moisture for a while and it was was bound up with rust(even though it is S.S.), and the hammer pin sheared, trying to loosen up the action. The rear sight was frozen with rust, and the rear screw in the side plate was very tight.
The hammer pin remained in the hammer, but the factory did remove that.
I called the factory about it and was told to return it to them, so I did!
Then after a week or so I was informed it was not repairable, and it was returned to me.
Although the side plate was not.
Several members here have offered advise that I greatly
appreciate, but it is still inop.
I do hope this helps you!
maxbnc

 

[cjk1911]

I spoke with the repair department at Smith and Wesson and was advised that mine could be repaired. They told me that the hammer stud is pressed in and brazed in place. We will see what happens when they get it.

It's a shame that your revolver could not be repaired. Especially with what you have spent in shipping. I hope I do noy run ito the same situation.

 

[mnrivrat]

Does anyone know of a tool made to unscrew/screw in the threaded pre-war S&W hammer stud ?

 

[dfariswheel]

The pistolsmiths who do this kind of work make their own.

I don't know of anything that can be bought that's correct for the job.

 

[chief38]

For the most part (as some have said above) this is a job for a professional Gunsmith. Not too many years ago you could actually get the correct parts from S&W or Numrich & others and I have actually repaired two myself. One gun was a M60 and the other was a blued M36. Neither gun was refinished and they came out pretty darn good. I did not braze them in as that would definitely call for the finish to be re-done but I did stake them in place. Both guns have been shot many times and the repairs have been successful. If you purposely look at the point that the Stud protrudes out of the frame you can see a faint circle as I could not make it perfectly flush with the frame. The only way to do that is to refinish the gun after they have been polished together. I measured very very carefully and to the best of my ability with a Calipers and once staked in place they came out pretty close. The average shooter would never notice the repair. If you were looking for it and knew where to look then yes you would find it. Since neither is a showpiece or highly collectible piece, that worked out very well for me. The blued M36 is quite old and I did not want a new finish on an old gun so that was my decision. The Stainless gun was easier as there was no applied or chemically treated finish to deal with.

I do not even know if you can find new Studs anymore and I know S&W will no longer sell them. The part is relatively simple to make with a lathe if you happen to know someone that has one.

 

[Tired Gunsmith]

We encountered broken hammer studs any times in our NYC shop which catered to the Police Clientle.
We mainly did "J" and "K" frame revolvers, and a few "N".We made DRILLING FIXTURES.
We screwed in new studs which would have the protruding 'circle' like on the prewar revolvers.
Never had any complaints.
( You can make a fixture by installing a drill bushing of proper size in a scrap sideplate which is mounted to the frame in question using only the screws, as the rest of he surfaces to mate the plate to its original frame must be relieved to fit the other frames.)