Is it worth fixing? S&W 38 SPECIAL CTG
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Arik
Member
What needs to be fixed? If it functions I'd shoot it as is
howiema
Member
I am a sucker for a "crunchy" beat up old revolver, I would gobble that up find some new shoes for it a little 0000 steel wool and some good gun oil and shoot it. Carry it or the use it as the old truck gun. I know condition is everything but passing up an oldie in rough shape doesn't happen to often up here.
Enjoy it
Pete
Enjoy it
Pete
dsink
Member
I agree with what howiema said. BUY IT! Some 0000 steel wool and some good gun oil is all it needs. That is a perfect truck gun.
Welcome to the forum.
There are collector grade guns and shooter grade guns.
This is a shooter grade. I would buy it for that price.
It appears to be a post WWII, pre model 10. Model numbers started around 1957. The C in the serial number is the beginning of the second Million made. I think the D prefix started in the 60's or 70's for the 3rd million, so the gun is not rare.
If your question is to refinish, meaning re-blue, I would not.
Re-bluing will not replace the pitting, just cover over it. Polishing out the pits will round over the lettering. For the costs involved in the purchase plus reblue, you will almost have the same investment as in a collector grade gun. For example, an almost mint 5" gun with box and papers just sold for $530.
I would buy it, clean it inside and out, and shoot it as is. You can remove the rust by rubbing with a piece of copper, like 10 ga copper wire. Steel may scratch off the bluing.
There are collector grade guns and shooter grade guns.
This is a shooter grade. I would buy it for that price.
It appears to be a post WWII, pre model 10. Model numbers started around 1957. The C in the serial number is the beginning of the second Million made. I think the D prefix started in the 60's or 70's for the 3rd million, so the gun is not rare.
If your question is to refinish, meaning re-blue, I would not.
Re-bluing will not replace the pitting, just cover over it. Polishing out the pits will round over the lettering. For the costs involved in the purchase plus reblue, you will almost have the same investment as in a collector grade gun. For example, an almost mint 5" gun with box and papers just sold for $530.
I would buy it, clean it inside and out, and shoot it as is. You can remove the rust by rubbing with a piece of copper, like 10 ga copper wire. Steel may scratch off the bluing.
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Smith357
US Veteran
That one looks like all it really needs is a long soak in a quality bore cleaner and good scrubbing with a bronze brush. I see no real signs of abuse, it looks like it spent its life in a holster.
I have a post war M&P #C186xxx (shipped April 1952) that has very little finish left, I like it just the way it is and would not change a thing.
I have a post war M&P #C186xxx (shipped April 1952) that has very little finish left, I like it just the way it is and would not change a thing.
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It functions as it (ole reliable smith) should. By refinishing I did mean rebluing and strip and redo the grips, which I would do myself. Been doing as a hobby for awhile so I'm confident in the results I'd get and might have $50 in materials to refinish it myself. Doing it for myself I wouldn't count the time invested.
Arik
Member
I wouldn't refining anything. As far as value goes, in the world of guns there is new, used and refinished. The last one is the worst. I would much rather buy that gun from you as is then if you refinished it. Clean it up and enjoy it for what it is, a 65 year old work horse.
I wouldn't do anything to it other than clean it up, but if you can strip it down, reblue, and refinish the grips yourself than go for it. It's not going to make the gun any more valuable, but if that's what you want go for it. Sound like a good project gun.
DAinTX
Member
As others have said, lightly buffed with 0000 steel wool (bronze wool is better) liberally dipped in Hoppes #9 solvent, or regular gun oil if you prefer, will remove the surface rust and improve the gun's appearance. Keep it wiped down with a lightly oiled rag and it'll be fine. It appears to be well worth the asking price.
jsfricks
Member
Leave it as is. If mine I would spray it down well (with grips off) with Kroil and let it soak in a gallon bag overnight. Then I would rub it down with bronze wool. It will remove the rust and is safer for the bluing. (Or what's left of bluing).With steel wool there's too much of a chance of removing the rest of the bluing. Ace hardware carries bronze wool.
I agree, I would jump on that old revolver for $175! Personally, as rough as the finish is, I have no problems with refinishing.
Jack Flash
Member
Agree with Zipdog. I would wait for a nicer one. Of course if you like to do this type of work and don't mind the elbow grease required, suit yourself.
To me, $175 for the gun + $50 for materials is a lot for something that looks so neglected. My adage is "Neglected on the outside, neglected on the inside."
Personally, I would save my money and keep looking for a nicer one.
highpower3006
Member
Shoot! compared to some of the turds I've bought, that thing looks practically new.
Now, you want to see one that was rode hard and put away wet:
Now, you want to see one that was rode hard and put away wet:
I paid $300 for a early M& P that is only a little better. It's tight mechanically and if the one you're looking at is, go ahead and have fun with it. $225 for a pretty, shooter 38 (After you're done) that you did yourself is worth double that to you. Who cares about resale in this case.
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Skeetr57
Member
A correction to post #5: The C prefix started the third million M&P guns. The first million had no prefix, then the second million had either a V or S prefix, and in 1948, the C prefix started.
F75gunslinger
Member
Id say that if you want a project gun, go for it. Seems like a good candidate for a cleanup and reblue...if that's what you want to do with it.
Biggfoot44
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No , I don't nesacarrily go for the " neglected outside = neglected inside " . Actual duty gunsoften get carried much , shot rarely. I have seen and test fired plent of S&W's that looked way worse , and were very smooth , and shot tight groups.
Being that you are asking in an environment heavily populated by S&W collectors , you will get opinions weighted to origionality. That said , here are some observations :
1. Shoot as-is , with only basic clean up. Not so much for collectability per se , but thriftiness. It will shoot fine , and honest wear give character.
2. *For me* , the next closely aligned step is basic clean up , combined with a little cold blue. Makes a big visual difference , none of origional finish removed. If you daily carry , it will need touching up on holster wear areas every cpl months , but you've already got the left over T-4, no big deal.
3. The fact that you have the capability to blue yourself changes the calculations. Normally , I feel for a working gun , no point to reblue per se. If I'm offended enough by the existing finish , or feel the need to change, once I sacrifice the origional finish , I'd replace with somthing better. Better as more durable or more rust resistance , or both. Other than the asectics and the origionality , blueing is a pretty poor firearm finish. There are various high tech spray on and plated finishes ( that sound in the background is the SWCA blowing their collective tops ). Personal preferences and essectics come into play. From a value perspective , Electroless Nickle will fill in minor pitting better than hard chrome. Mahovsky's E-Nickle for about $175 is a top value. Of course you have to be ok with a silver clorored pistol. The majority of revolvers mfg in recent decades have been stainless steel , and I personally like the looks of old school nickle plating , but that's me.
Being that you are asking in an environment heavily populated by S&W collectors , you will get opinions weighted to origionality. That said , here are some observations :
1. Shoot as-is , with only basic clean up. Not so much for collectability per se , but thriftiness. It will shoot fine , and honest wear give character.
2. *For me* , the next closely aligned step is basic clean up , combined with a little cold blue. Makes a big visual difference , none of origional finish removed. If you daily carry , it will need touching up on holster wear areas every cpl months , but you've already got the left over T-4, no big deal.
3. The fact that you have the capability to blue yourself changes the calculations. Normally , I feel for a working gun , no point to reblue per se. If I'm offended enough by the existing finish , or feel the need to change, once I sacrifice the origional finish , I'd replace with somthing better. Better as more durable or more rust resistance , or both. Other than the asectics and the origionality , blueing is a pretty poor firearm finish. There are various high tech spray on and plated finishes ( that sound in the background is the SWCA blowing their collective tops ). Personal preferences and essectics come into play. From a value perspective , Electroless Nickle will fill in minor pitting better than hard chrome. Mahovsky's E-Nickle for about $175 is a top value. Of course you have to be ok with a silver clorored pistol. The majority of revolvers mfg in recent decades have been stainless steel , and I personally like the looks of old school nickle plating , but that's me.
I have a 1899 and a 1902 with nice brown (Ahem) patina on them. I like them as is.
However sometimes one can get more please out of doing the work - something money can't buy.
I will say that the boss realy isn't giving you much of a bargin however. I wouldn't expect that gun to sell around here retail for much difference in price. Then again prices keep on climbing and its not realy a bad price for a shooter.
Worth buying, but not worth spending a lot to "fix" the finish unless its a labor of lub .
However sometimes one can get more please out of doing the work - something money can't buy.
I will say that the boss realy isn't giving you much of a bargin however. I wouldn't expect that gun to sell around here retail for much difference in price. Then again prices keep on climbing and its not realy a bad price for a shooter.
Worth buying, but not worth spending a lot to "fix" the finish unless its a labor of lub .
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