Is my timing correct? Just back from my Gunsmith!

When I check the timing of SA as you say not all the chambers lockup!
You only have to advance the cylinder just a hair.....then you hear the click as the stop drops into its' cylinder slot!
He obviously wanted to remove the possibility to stage or stack the trigger in DA mode!
I'd suspect the outcome by the 'smith was unintended. The usual convention is to have the revolver fully locked up BEFORE the hammer drops. 'Smith might have missed the slooow through DA on all cylinders step.
 
I'd suspect the outcome by the 'smith was unintended. The usual convention is to have the revolver fully locked up BEFORE the hammer drops. 'Smith might have missed the slooow through DA on all cylinders step.

Yeah, like I said, I think his intention was to address staging or stacking by changing the timing and took a little took much off the hand!
I don't know how to fix it other than replace the hand!
Or when the gun is cycled do it fast and let the cylinder inertia lockup the cylinder! But that's not right!
 
Might be able to "stretch" the existing hand by peening it to increase length. That's if it is only a tiny bit short.
 
My usual preference is to simply replace the hand with a standard S&W factory OS hand; likely will fix carry up. In a few extreme cases I've had to fit a Powers oversize hand. A Powers is a good bit more time consuming and almost certainly not necessary in the OP's case.
 
That is not how S&W revolvers work! The hand needs to be thicker.

Unless you know what you are talking about, and you do not in this case, please refrain from trying to give people advice in any subject!
Gunsmithing S&W since 1961?
You're the one I should be talking to!
I took my 617-6 to a highly recommended Gunsmith for an action job and now some of the chambers on the cylinder fall short of locking on the bolt!
He advertised that "timing correction" is part of his action job!
The gun is practically new so wear is not a problem. I would think all it needs is a new standard size hand.
I could use your help !
Please advise!!!
 
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That is not how S&W revolvers work! The hand needs to be thicker.

Unless you know what you are talking about, and you do not in this case, please refrain from trying to give people advice in any subject!

After reading your post about the hand being thicker I took a look at the hand where it comes through the frame and it's about the size of the end of a toothpick against the right side of the hand window, not much there and I think that would wear out very quickly making the lock up worse!
I looked at the hand on my 686 (timing untouched) and the portion of the hand coming through the window is the width of the window, alot more material there!
Big difference!
 
Photos of hand
 

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I too do all my own work
However in this case I would simply take it back and show the guy what it is doing, obviously something isn't right with it. If he is a decent person he should make it right.
It next to impossible for anyone to guess as to what he did or didn't do, plenty on here can do great work I my self have tuned countless revolvers and continue to do them everything from a basic carry piece, a full restoration to competition revolvers. Once you know what you're doing they're very easy to work on, once you fully and truly understand what part does what you know what to touch and what to leave alone (that's where "bubba" messes up, he messes with things you shouldn't).
I would take it back
Now if he argues or has a different story, then I would have a problem
 
I too do all my own work
However in this case I would simply take it back and show the guy what it is doing, obviously something isn't right with it. If he is a decent person he should make it right.
It next to impossible for anyone to guess as to what he did or didn't do, plenty on here can do great work I my self have tuned countless revolvers and continue to do them everything from a basic carry piece, a full restoration to competition revolvers. Once you know what you're doing they're very easy to work on, once you fully and truly understand what part does what you know what to touch and what to leave alone (that's where "bubba" messes up, he messes with things you shouldn't).
I would take it back
Now if he argues or has a different story, then I would have a problem

It's going back tomorrow and we will see if he stands behind his work or not!
 
It's going back tomorrow and we will see if he stands behind his work or not!
i agree if someone else did the work he should make the repairs if he can't send it to s&w and make him pay put it on your credit card that way you can dispute the charges if he doesn't stand by his work and get everything in writing condition of gun is it functioning ? any scratches or not ? you have to treat people this way now a days unfortunately !!!!
 
Here's a thought... maybe the gunsmith did nothing wrong to it. Maybe the owner, after getting his revolver back from the gunsmith, is lovingly and obsessively working the action real slow to evaluate the work and notices -- for the first time -- that the timing seems off.

Now -- was it off BEFORE it was examined so minutely? Hmmmmm?
 
Here's a thought... maybe the gunsmith did nothing wrong to it. Maybe the owner, after getting his revolver back from the gunsmith, is lovingly and obsessively working the action real slow to evaluate the work and notices -- for the first time -- that the timing seems off.

Now -- was it off BEFORE it was examined so minutely? Hmmmmm?
No, it definitely has been modified, I noticed the change immediately!
It was fine before, don't know why he thought he had to change it!
Sometimes I like to stage my DA shots, I'd hear the cylinder lock on the stop and then pull through.
I can't do that now. It locks most of the time when the hammer drops but not always.
Sometimes you can still turn the cylinder into the cylinder stop after the hammer drops.
 
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It locks most of the time when the hammer drops but not always.
Sometimes you can still turn the cylinder into the cylinder stop after the hammer drops.
I'm not a gunsmith but I think you are lucky it's only a .22 because that right there sounds dangerous especially if it was a larger high pressure cartridge. You might not want to fire the gun anymore before you bring it back.

If I'm wrong I'm sorry but at least what I'm saying doesn't pose a danger to you or the gun.
 
Here's a thought... maybe the gunsmith did nothing wrong to it. Maybe the owner, after getting his revolver back from the gunsmith, is lovingly and obsessively working the action real slow to evaluate the work and notices -- for the first time -- that the timing seems off.

Now -- was it off BEFORE it was examined so minutely? Hmmmmm?

I don't see that it matters if it didn't lock up previously. The smith worked on the action. Seems like it ought to operate correctly.

Had he re-barrelled it or did something that didn't involve the action, I could see it.
 
Hands on

Photos of hand

Very interesting thread. I have read through this
thread several times. Jalopiejoe, is your 617-6 .22lr
a 10 shot?

I studied your photos and it appears that the hand
has a pointy sharp ratchet finger.

Out of curiosity and to verify what my 6 shot hand
has, it is wedge shaped, like my Mdl 629s, 625,
and Mdl 686.

Which Ratchet finger is yours supposed to use?
 

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Manual for Enthusiasts

Had to go look at “The Manual”.

Shop manual 5th Edition The S&W Revolver by
Jerry Kuhnhausen is very detailed.

Pages 97-99 is the ratchet / repairs. Pages 108
and 109 is the hand / replacement. All pages
are very detailed how all works together.

Manual was gifted to me because of my interest
in S&W Revolvers about a year ago. I wish, I had
gotten it years ago.

Luckily I have only read/skimmed through it and
not had to use it, contribute that to very thorough
inspection before buying revolvers. Flashlight in
hand.

The Best to you and your Endeavors.
 
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