Is this normal wear on a Bodyguard38?

[marcusng]

When we got this new BG38, the "cylinder ramp" (as best as I can describe it sorry I dont know the technical term for that location on the frame) was black and pristine.

After 50 rounds fired, everything functioned perfectly (except maybe a lot of "too little finger" causing the POI to land left of POA).

During the cleaning process, I noticed some fairly significant scratches all the way down to bare metal (or actually "gouging" judging from the grooves observed in the scratch area). Please see red circled area on photos. (photos 1/2)

There seems to be some forward and backward play on the cylinder, about 1mm or so. (photos 3/4)

I am wondering from our experts here (or anyone else who actually own a BG38), is this normal?

Thanks in advance

Marcus

 

[David R]

I had a BG38. Your wear looks normal to me. The cylinder end shake would bother me. Mine got up to .014" then I sent it back for adjustment. After a couple hundred more rounds, It loosened up again.

I suggest you check the play and barrel to cylinder gap with feeler gauges. Get an exact # of the end shake.

I now own a 637.

The BG 38 absorbs recoil better than the 36 or 637. I shot mine a lot. Loved the laser.

David

 

[Boogsawaste]

I you are checking the front to back movement (endshake) with the cylinder OPEN that doesn't tell you anything. Close it up, pull the trigger all the way back (double check it's not loaded), and use feeler gauges to check again.

 

[s&wchad]

Other members have already touched on the answer, but I'll offer a more detailed explanation. That frame "ledge" is the only thing that stops the cylinder from falling backwards off the yoke when it's open. Any resistance from the fired cases causes the back edge of the cylinder to drive into the ledge when you depress the ejector rod. If you want to stop/minimize marring of the ledge, support the cylinder when you eject empties. I recommend the technique shown in the photo below. You start with your palm up, reach under around the frame and pop the cylinder open with your middle and ring fingers. This method allows you to control the cylinder and is a very fast and efficient.

 

[cmj8591]

That little bump where the ware is occurring is there to keep the cylinder from coming off the yoke when it is open. The ware you have is not unusual, especially on a black aluminum/scandium frame. The cylinder is supposed to move back and forth like that when it is open. It is also supposed to move back and forth slightly when it is closed. If it didn't, it wouldn't turn and would lock up the gun. If it's shooting ok, I wouldn't worry about it at this point. End shake, which is what the back and forth movement with the cylinder closed is called, usually only becomes an issue after many rounds are fired. With a gun like you have, unless you are shooting it A LOT, it should not be something you should have to worry about during your life time.

 

[Realgunner]

Other members have already touched on the answer, but I'll offer a more detailed explanation. That frame "ledge" is the only thing that stops the cylinder from falling backwards off the yoke when it's open. Any resistance from the fired cases causes the back edge of the cylinder to drive into the ledge when you depress the ejector rod. If you want to stop/minimize marring of the ledge, support the cylinder when you eject empties. I recommend the technique shown in the photo below. You start with your palm up, reach under around the frame and pop the cylinder open with your middle and ring fingers. This method allows you to control the cylinder and is a very fast and efficient.

I was taught this technique 30 years ago in the academy as part of speed-reloading a revolver. It served me well until we went to semi-autos.

 

[marcusng]

Thank you everyone for all your invaluable information and insights. It is most appreciated.


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