Ithica / Essex 1911

Chino74

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Put one on layway today. Slide is Ithica with an orverall worn finish w light pitting. Barrel has no marking, the rifling is good but it's got light erosion through the barrel. P stamp on top of slide.

Frame is Essex Serial number 7143. No number on the slide. Function check is good, not sloppy in frame to slide fit., I tore it down & everything looks OK. Function check was OK as well.

It's a mix master & rough finish on frame & slide. Got it for $299.00

I have some pics but have not figured how to post, I cam email if anyone wants to post them for me. Otherwise will get the pic thing figured out later. Thanks.
 
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The slide and other parts alone are probably worth that. Like to see your pics once you get it figured out.
 
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I picked up one of those 6 or 7 years ago for $ 225. at a gun show with a serial number in the 157XX range . While not on par with my Wilson Combats, Kimbers or Colts it still is a very serviceable 1911 with decent accuracy. I still have it & shoot it once in awhile but the G.I. sights are hard on the old eyes. I guess its not 1968 any more .
 
Essex receivers are cast steel, but don't let that scare you. Caspian receivers are also cast steel and they are very highly regarded for custom builds. The cast steel Essex slides are a different story, often a bit brittle and prone to cracking.
I think a lot of Essex receiver with a mix of ex-military parts and slide 1911's are the product of yesteryear when there were plenty of military parts available. For $300, these days, I think you did good.
 
I built around 40 1911's in the 80's, and used Federal Ordinance frames. These were aluminum and usually lasted about 800-1000 rounds. They usually failed at the slide stop hole and the dust shield usually hung down at a 30 degree angle. Some would still function. Some failed catastrophically! My best friends blew parts of a 45 ACP Case into his face and shooting hand!

We both replace the Fed Ord frames on our personal 1911's with Essex steel frames. Mine is now semi retired with over 40,000 another rounds through it, the best friends Essex frame has closer to 100,000!

Besides what I built, I have owned 40 1911's or so! If the builder did his job correctly, the Essex framed guns are usually better than any comparable factory gun. (That means Service grade verses Service grade and Competition verses a similar level competition grade.)

I think an unused Essex Frame can be found for just under $250 nowdays, I paid $89 in 1987 (1983 Fed Ord frames were $29 retail and slowly went to $39 by 1986)

The biggest normal problem with GI slides are the sights! and replacing to front one is a pain, It normally requires a special staking tool, but the few I had done all came off, so the surest way to install the is to soldier them on. (expensive!) So if your eyes can still use the GI sights, stick with them. The biggest abnormal slide problem is the locking lugs get worn and or peened (bent back). I used a punch and drove them back into shape, I sold the gun 3000 round later and the lugs were still good, so someone must have been using 45 +P+ pressure ammo!

That you gun has an Essex frame means it was put together by someone! IF they did it right your grandkids should be enjoying that gun in 75 years or so! Don't hot rod the ammo!

Ivan
 
Interarms built and sold 1911’s using USGI mil-surp parts and Essex frames. The later ones were labeled “Silvercup”. IIRC, I have owned three. You did well for $300.00.
 
2 pics...as you can see it's a bit rough looking. Unsure if I should have the whole thing refinished or not. How the pics got upside down I have no idea LOL.
 

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Several sources offered "build your own" kits featuring Essex frames (steel or aluminum alloy) and GI surplus parts, 1960's to about 1980 or so. Quite a few of them out there. Last one that came my way was a GI Colt slide, WW2 "HS" barrel, all new internals, assembled on the alloy Essex frame, and it performed quite well with ball ammo (not so well with SWC). I gave about $250 for it in a trade back in about 2004 or so.

Not long thereafter I found a complete upper unit by Springfield Armory, probably left over from a custom build, and purchased that for $250. Mounted it up on the Essex frame, consistent 3-4" groups at 25 yards. Sold the WW2 Colt slide and HS barrel for $475, and the Essex-framed pistol for $375. So, $500 in and $850 out.

More people collecting original M1911A1's, including folks looking for original parts to rebuild a "mix-master", I suspect that your original Ithaca slide and other parts are worth more than you paid for that pistol.
 
Did you buy the gun to shoot or to look at? Refinishing it won't make it shoot any better. Refinishing it is not going to hurt the value collectors value like it would some guns, but it's also not really going to help the value much either. I'd leave it as is, take it out to the range, and see how it shoots.
 
It's going to be a shooter however, it looks like someone attacked the frame in spots with a scotch bright scrubber...If I can find a service that does decent refinishes I might have it done...because on those occasions when I simply look at it I'd like a better finish...
 
brings back memories - back in the mid 80's I purchased a coffee can at flea market by Ft. Dix , contained an Ithaca slide + all other parts except frame + barrel - bought an Essex frame + Federal arms barrel + made my first 1911 build - still have it , now with well over 5000 rounds thru it - still as tight as the day I built it - less then $72.00 total investment back then - the cast Essex frames hold up just as well as the forged Springfield Armory ones I have used - good luck with you acquisition -
 
From the two pics posted, it looks to be finish challenged and has some pitting. Cast steel (the receiver) tends to not blue as well as forged or bar stock steel, so bluing is likely to result in a blue slide, purplish receiver. My advice: Thoroughly clean it first, inspect for any cracked or broken parts. If everything looks good, lube it, reassemble, go shoot it. Make sure it is reliable and has your desired accuracy. Yes, GI sights are tiny, but I find them to actually be good for slow, precision fire. If it's all good, then consider parkerizing as that is the least expensive finish and will make the pitting far less noticeable. If the pistol is found to be lacking in some way, make changes before refinishing.


Alternatively, you have a whopping $300 into it, shoot it and enjoy it as it is and for what it is, a spare parts 1911.
 
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Colt “Model 1911 A1 “ Semi Automatic . Blue finish with walnut grips . Essex frame-. The specially hardened National Match slide was made by Colt for an Air Force contract and numbered 7790314. There was an overrun so some were sold off to custom builders. These are regarded as some of the best slides ever made by Colt. The rest of the pistol is made up of surplus government parts. I've owned and shot this pistol for many years and whoever built it knew their stuff. It's an accurate and reliable shooter.
Jim
 
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Here is one set up for bullseye with S&W K frame sights popular in the 60s-70s with a hard chrome job and lots of tricks and another with a slide I bought from Jack the dog a few years back. They are not worth a lot but they are good shooters.
 

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Beautiful 1911s! I will pick up mine next week. I am gonna run some rounds thru it then tear it down to the frame, this will be my first complete disassembly...we will see how it goes LOL. I do have a fairly good source book for disassembly...hoping I don't mess it up. Will prolly need to order some new springs too.
 
Beautiful 1911s! I will pick up mine next week. I am gonna run some rounds thru it then tear it down to the frame, this will be my first complete disassembly...we will see how it goes LOL. I do have a fairly good source book for disassembly...hoping I don't mess it up. Will prolly need to order some new springs too.
The recoil spring and magazine springs are critical in the 1911. Weak springs induce malfunctions. For full power ammo, I'd recommend a 16 pound recoil spring, 14 pounds for reduced power target ammo. Use a good magazine, genuine Colt (lots of cheap look-alikes out there), Mec-Gar, or Metalform 7 round magazines generally work the best.

Looking forward to the range report.
 
I ordered a WOLF spring set: HGW & Wolff 1911 Tune-Up 45 Auto Spring Pack, 16 Recoil, Sear, Firing Pin spring. I have plenty of mag choices, Colt, McCormick & Wilson. Anything else I might need?
 
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