Will a barrel from a j-frame screw into an i frame?
J frame barrel for I frame
- Thread starter raljr1
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Alk8944
US Veteran
Yes it will. But if it is a used barrel it may not be able to be fit properly.
Yes the thread is the same.
There is another issue however; the barrel cyl gap. I frames have different cyl lengths than the same caliber J frame cylinders.
So a J frame barrel threaded shank is shorter than an I frame barrel shank. But the I frame cyl window is shorter. I know the J barrel can be made to fit, but fitting it can need turning on a lathe.
What did you have in mind? I've swapped several barrels before.
There is another issue however; the barrel cyl gap. I frames have different cyl lengths than the same caliber J frame cylinders.
So a J frame barrel threaded shank is shorter than an I frame barrel shank. But the I frame cyl window is shorter. I know the J barrel can be made to fit, but fitting it can need turning on a lathe.
What did you have in mind? I've swapped several barrels before.
OP
Jim, I bought a 32 hand ejector with a 3-1/4" barrel thinking I would cannibalize it for parts for my RP target. the parts are different, so i was thinking of putting a 2" barrel on it to turn it into a carry piece for my wife. i recently picked up a Regulation Police in 32 caliber that had been factory modified with a 2" barrel. that one isnt going to be a carry piece for Mrs. but the HE could be. That's bow the idea came about. The finish on the HE isnt great, and i found a 32 cal, J frame barrel for under $20 on ebay. I figure that since i already own this one I can make it a snub for less than the difference between selling the HE and buying a a decent model 30.
Yes, that's a good plan.
Your I frame HE with a 3 1/2" barrel, has a 1.245 to 1.250 cyl length. The J frame cyl length is 1.390".
And the J barrel shank is .125" longer than an I frame barrel.
Therefore the barrel will still be a net .015 to .020" short of touching the cyl.
So the J frame barrel will need its shoulder to be faced off .010" to .015" to leave an acceptable barrel / cyl gap .005". The threads are 20 threads per inch (.050"/thread), so 2 to 3 full barrel turns is needed, to have a .005" bar/cyl gap.
Your I frame HE with a 3 1/2" barrel, has a 1.245 to 1.250 cyl length. The J frame cyl length is 1.390".
And the J barrel shank is .125" longer than an I frame barrel.
Therefore the barrel will still be a net .015 to .020" short of touching the cyl.
So the J frame barrel will need its shoulder to be faced off .010" to .015" to leave an acceptable barrel / cyl gap .005". The threads are 20 threads per inch (.050"/thread), so 2 to 3 full barrel turns is needed, to have a .005" bar/cyl gap.
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What are the serial #s pr partial #s for the RP target and 32 HE? Then I can provide serial # ranges to look at when shopping for a parts gun.
OP
The 32 HE is 103673
The RP target is SN 354626
The RP has the hammer block and spring in the side plate. I have the new extractor (which needs the two alignment holes drilled), a side plate and a spare ejector rod for it. So I think I have the parts to put it in order, but far I haven't found a gunsmith to do so.
I appreciate the help.
The RP target is SN 354626
The RP has the hammer block and spring in the side plate. I have the new extractor (which needs the two alignment holes drilled), a side plate and a spare ejector rod for it. So I think I have the parts to put it in order, but far I haven't found a gunsmith to do so.
I appreciate the help.
The 32 HE #103673 is a Model of 1903 5th Change from 1910. Do you have a short extractor rod for it with right hand thread and no knob to fit with the 2 " barrel?
The RP target SN 354626 is from the early 1920s and has the same lock work as the 32 HE Third Model (except for the very earliest few up to ~ # 263 XXX, which have the 32 HE Model of 1903 - 5th Change lock work).
Its rod with large mushroom extractor rod knob, is right hand thread. Which thread direction is your replacement extractor star?
You don't have to drill the star for the alignment pins, just pull the pins out of the cyl. S&W didn't always use them. They are not that critical, the key way in the extractor star shaft is sufficient for alignment.
The side plate safety hammer block is the first style, operated by the hand via a horizontal pin in the side plate. It's operated off the back of the hand, and also provides hand spring tension; no spring in trigger.
The 2nd style (ordered to improve the action Nov 6th 1925) has a leaf spring - uses early style hand spring in trigger, (different from post war trigger mounted hand spring).
The RP target SN 354626 is from the early 1920s and has the same lock work as the 32 HE Third Model (except for the very earliest few up to ~ # 263 XXX, which have the 32 HE Model of 1903 - 5th Change lock work).
Its rod with large mushroom extractor rod knob, is right hand thread. Which thread direction is your replacement extractor star?
You don't have to drill the star for the alignment pins, just pull the pins out of the cyl. S&W didn't always use them. They are not that critical, the key way in the extractor star shaft is sufficient for alignment.
The side plate safety hammer block is the first style, operated by the hand via a horizontal pin in the side plate. It's operated off the back of the hand, and also provides hand spring tension; no spring in trigger.
The 2nd style (ordered to improve the action Nov 6th 1925) has a leaf spring - uses early style hand spring in trigger, (different from post war trigger mounted hand spring).
OP
OK, So here's what I've learned with your counsel. I have three replacement extractors, all three appear to have left hand threads. MY RP does in fact have right hand threads as you say. So I do not have the parts I need as yet. I actually thought my best plan for the Target is to find a decent fixed sight gun and swap out the cylinder. My cylinder already does not match frame and barrel serial numbers.
As for the HE, I do not have the short rod, but I thought I'd have the ejector rod and pin machined to the length needed once I had the barrel installed. I do have a spare rod so I can save the original barrel and rod. But this piece has no collector value so there is really no need to do so.
As for the HE, I do not have the short rod, but I thought I'd have the ejector rod and pin machined to the length needed once I had the barrel installed. I do have a spare rod so I can save the original barrel and rod. But this piece has no collector value so there is really no need to do so.
My suggestions:
There are no LH thread mushroom knobs:
So, use the extractor star from the HE with its right hand thread, in the target RP. The original target RP MR knob extractor rod will work wth it.
Now, use the left hand thread extractor star in the HE (pull the pins from the cyl). Then, all you need is a LH thread, short 2" barrel rod 1.773" with knurled tip. I frames all have LH thread beginning after WW II, and J frames are all LH thread since their introduction in 1950 all the way to the present.
The .22/32 and .32 J frame rods are the same length 1.773" as the I frame. These will be the easiest to find. (You do not want a 2" rod from a J frame 38 S&W or .38 Special, they are too long and would need to be shortened.)
There you have it, any questions, just ask,
There are no LH thread mushroom knobs:
So, use the extractor star from the HE with its right hand thread, in the target RP. The original target RP MR knob extractor rod will work wth it.
Now, use the left hand thread extractor star in the HE (pull the pins from the cyl). Then, all you need is a LH thread, short 2" barrel rod 1.773" with knurled tip. I frames all have LH thread beginning after WW II, and J frames are all LH thread since their introduction in 1950 all the way to the present.
The .22/32 and .32 J frame rods are the same length 1.773" as the I frame. These will be the easiest to find. (You do not want a 2" rod from a J frame 38 S&W or .38 Special, they are too long and would need to be shortened.)
There you have it, any questions, just ask,
OP
Thank you, I'll keep you posted
