J-frame questions

[Pioneer461]

I like my 642 as on-duty backup and hot weather off duty carry. I like the [lack of] weight and "hammerless" configuration. Won't snag on presentation from my Desantis Nemesis pocket holster in my left front trouser pocket.

Lots of improvement in .38 spl. ammo in the past few years. I carry Speer Gold Dot, Short Barrel, 135 gr. +P and do not feel under-gunned. I always carry at least one reload in either speed strip or speed loader.

 

[BillLester]

Well I finally got to handle both the Airweights 642/442 and the 640. There was a noticeable difference in weight between the two...

Something to consider beyond carry weight - shootability. I've always preferred the all-steel J's simply because I shoot my CCW's regularly with handload equivalents of my factory carry ammo. The slightly heavier steel guns will help in recoil control compared to the Airweights. You'll be less fatigued at the end of a range session, thus getting the most from your practice. I'm also of the opinion that the steel guns will hold up better over time.

They're wanting $437 for the the 642/442 without CT lasergrips and $644 with the CTs. Seems like a good deal, but it's the older models still with the IL, wonder if I can talk them into ordering me one without the lock.

I would never use an IL-equipped revolver for personal defense if at all possible. IMO there are too many perfectly good pre-locks out there to gamble. As an example, just this past weekend I purchased a Model 649 No Dash for $379. It was a police trade-in. Other than some scratches and nicks, the little five-shooter is as good as the day it left the factory. And there's no worry about an IL failure.

I'd strongly suggest one of the new 442's w/o IL if weight was the paramount issue.

Also, those with these do y'all have the regular boot grips or CTs on them? I'm probably going to stick with the 642/442 now just because the LIGHT weight and the price, don't want to break the bank

Up until now I've used just about every conventional grip package on my several J-frames over the years. My favorite has been the Uncle Mike's/Butler Creek Boot Grips. Second place goes to the factory splinter wood panels combined with a Tyler T-grip. But time moves forward and so does technology. The CT laser grips look like a serious improvement in practical accuracy with little to no penalty in concealment. More than likely I will buy a set soon.

 

[photoman]

I'm looking to find out from 640 and 60 owners if these are too big to pocket carry.

I pocket carried a 2" M64 all one summer in a Mika pocket holster wearing cargo shorts with a good belt. Worked just fine.

With that being said, I'm sold on the Airweight J frames and that's what I use now.

 

[34tartex]

Mark, you might try Shooters of Jacksonville at Small Frame (J) . They have new 642 (without CT grips) for $429.99, plus $21 shipping. And, at gunbroker.com, you can enter your ZIP code and see a list of FFLs in College Station and how much they charge to transfer. Should be able to find one for $25, or less. "Shooters..." ships in a hurry. I bought a 642 there a couple months ago and had it in hand in 4 days...and that was over a weekend.

I pocket carry mine in an Uncle Mike's and it does great!

 

[mmunsch]

34tartex thanks for the website, pretty good prices, and I don't have to worry about FFL costs because a good friend has his and doesn't charge me to transfer. Also I found a 640 around for $450, NO lock, but no clue on the condition. Would I be crazy for grabbing the 640 and trying my luck with it and pocket carrying it or better off buying a new 442/642 without the lock. Any opinions?

 

[RHINOWSO]

I wish I had more experience to help - I 'stole' a 640-1 no lock this week and just shot it yesterday. It doesn't feel heavy but I'm sure in comparison to a 642/442 it would just a bit. 357 was very managable in it, however. I need new grips before I carry. I really like having the option for 38 or 357 (I have a Model 66 as well).

I think I'll eventually round out with a 442, just to have one for shorts / t-shirt / flip-flop wx when ultra low weight is key.

- Rhino

 

[SAFireman]

34tartex thanks for the website, pretty good prices, and I don't have to worry about FFL costs because a good friend has his and doesn't charge me to transfer. Also I found a 640 around for $450, NO lock, but no clue on the condition. Would I be crazy for grabbing the 640 and trying my luck with it and pocket carrying it or better off buying a new 442/642 without the lock. Any opinions?

I pocket carry my 640 from time to time, and I used to carry it before I had the 340...it is a noticeable difference, but with decent pair of Levi's, and Uncle Mike's pocket holster ($15), nobody ever noticed. $450 is a pretty good deal on the 640 around these parts, and it is pretty nearly indestructible.

Good luck.

 

[34tartex]

642 vs 640

34tartex thanks for the website, pretty good prices, and I don't have to worry about FFL costs because a good friend has his and doesn't charge me to transfer. Also I found a 640 around for $450, NO lock, but no clue on the condition. Would I be crazy for grabbing the 640 and trying my luck with it and pocket carrying it or better off buying a new 442/642 without the lock. Any opinions?

Looks like you already got some feedback about buying the 640. I can't add anymore to what has already been written except to say that the weight difference between the two guns is exactly 1/2 pound, making the 640 over 65% heavier than the 642. Additionally, maybe it's just me, but I almost never buy anything used if I can afford to buy a new one...unless I know and explicitly trust the seller.

 

[David Sinko]

Weight is a subjective thing. I can carry my 2" 940 (which I believe is the heaviest 2" J Frame ever made) in a pocket holster and not mind the weight. But it's a good idea to have a belt when doing this.

I am also a big fan of my 60-7 and sometimes carry it in sweatpants with no belt. This will not work with the 940.

You do not need to pay a gunsmith to bob the hammer. You can do that yourself with a Dremel and a cutoff wheel. It's a very simple thing to do, as long as you know how to take the hammer out of the gun.

Dave Sinko

 

[BillLester]

Regarding the weight issue

Would any of us notice if we lost .5 lbs. in body weight? As 34tartex noted, that's the difference between an Airweight M642 and an all-steel M640. Not really significant when you consider the all-steel gun is easier to shoot and will last longer under regular practice with +P carry ammo.

Here's another analogy. Have you ever walked out of the house and not noticed you forgot to pocket your cell phone, pocket knife or decent sized key set? For many phones that's a close approximation of difference between a 642 vs. 640. The difference really isn't that much.

 

[Kanewpadle]

Just bought another 642 yesterday. It's my third. My other two are on "loan" to my wife and dad. I don't think I be getting them back.

Keep it loaded with Corbon DPX. 110gr at 1050fps. It's a good load.

I came very close to buying a 340PD 357. But after I shot one and felt the recoil, I passed. Plus I saved over $500 by going with the 642.

Either way you go the J frame is a great carry or back up gun.

 

[34tartex]

Analogy, BillLester?

Would any of us notice if we lost .5 lbs. in body weight? As 34tartex noted, that's the difference between an Airweight M642 and an all-steel M640. Not really significant when you consider the all-steel gun is easier to shoot and will last longer under regular practice with +P carry ammo.

Here's another analogy. Have you ever walked out of the house and not noticed you forgot to pocket your cell phone, pocket knife or decent sized key set? For many phones that's a close approximation of difference between a 642 vs. 640. The difference really isn't that much.

Whoa! I didn't mean to stir up a hornet's nest. Obviously, BillLester prefers all-steel over the Airweights...and that's fine. "Different strokes for different folks." Personally, I'm not locked in to one or the other but was simply telling mmunsch the exact difference in weight between the 640 and 642. And, I agree with BillL that none of us really would notice if we lost .5 lbs. in total body weight, but I think I would certainly be aware of that half-pound difference in my pocket.

 

[samuelrp]

I believe on the 642 the cylinder and barrel are stainless steel. I just purchased a 442 to carry in August when it's 100 in the shade and I'm wearing only a pair of shorts. The 442 has a carbon steel cylinder and barrel, matte black. It weighs NOTHING. I'm carrying Federal hydra shock 115 gr jhp in mine which are supposedly less recoil. Everyone needs a small pocket revolver !

 

[BillLester]

Whoa! I didn't mean to stir up a hornet's nest. Obviously, BillLester prefers all-steel over the Airweights...and that's fine. "Different strokes for different folks." Personally, I'm not locked in to one or the other but was simply telling mmunsch the exact difference in weight between the 640 and 642. And, I agree with BillL that none of us really would notice if we lost .5 lbs. in total body weight, but I think I would certainly be aware of that half-pound difference in my pocket.

No hornets here. Yes we have a differing opinion in this matter and we're providing the pros and cons of those opinions to the OP. That's what a discussion is about. Perhaps you misunderstood why I quoted you earlier. It was a tip o' the hat for providing information germane to the subject. No malice was intended nor should be inferred.

Now back to the discussion. It's reasonable to think you'd notice a 1/2 lb. difference, I certainly did when I carried a M37 for a while. But IMO the price paid in shootability and long-term durability negated the weight loss compared to the M640 that replaced it.

 

[rwschill]

Pistol Choice

I have the stainless model 649 and the alloy 638. The 638 is easier to pocket carry, the 649 not so easy -but, the stainless guns are MUCH easier to shoot well. You will probably end up with both in time. Good luck!

 

[mmunsch]

Thanks for all the responses. From what I've read I've decided on an Airweight for the ease and lightweight carry. Now my question is do I go with the 442/642 .38+P or do I spend the extra money on the M&P 340? Anyone with the 340 is it worth the extra money to shoot .357. I'm a person who likes to buy the right thing the first time, don't want to save money at first purchasing the 442/642 if later I'm going to end up purchasing the 340. Also anyone on the CT grips, like them, love them, hate them, any comments are welcome.

 

[James_Joshua]

The only reason that I would get a 340 is because of the interchangeable front sight. They is just a small reason, otherwise go with a 442/642 and save the money for practice ammo and enjoy.

 

[SAFireman]

My current pocket carry is 340

I carry my 340sc daily (when I can't wear enough clothes to cover a 1911 or sig p226). I choose the 340 because it would shoot the 357 mag loads and the weight savings was a bonus, also you save 1/4 inch in barrel length over the 640. The Double Tap Ammo 125 grain Bonded Defense (Gold Dot Bullet, I believe) is traveling 1425 feet per second out of the 1 7/8 barrel of the 340 versus the 38 +p @ 800-900 fps. I probably will not notice the recoil, if used for a self defense purpose, but range time is somewhat limited to 10 rounds per session. I practice with the 38special 130 gr RNL, rather than take a beating with magnum loads. I do run 10 or or more magnum loads at the end of the session so that I am not surprised by the difference in recoil.

As for grips....I still use the Hogue Bantam grips that came from the factory, but I hear that the Crimson Trace grips are wider, they cover the back strap, and absorb some recoil that the Hogues do not. I may have to try some of those some day.