Frank237
Absent Comrade
Whats the rating for a STOCK J frame rebound spring?? I see that wolff has them at various ratings, 12#, 13# etc.
FN in MT
FN in MT
J frame rebound spring....13#, 14# ?
- Thread starter Frank237
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
chp
Member
Wolff sells a 16# separately - not in the pack. That's what I use.
ordy
US Veteran
I've seen you-tube videos replacing main/rebound springs with 8# main and 14# rebound springs. They don't come right out and say it but lead me to believe it's kind of like a mini trigger job without stoning mating surfaces. I'm tempted to try it but am concerned with reliable ignition.
I have used 14# in a couple of J frames, (along with a little stoning) and get very good triggers that have proven fully reliable. I never changed or altered a mainspring.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Messages
- 19,624
- Reaction score
- 31,129
I believe that the stock spring is 18 pounds and while I regularly will install a 13 or 14 pound spring in a designated "Target Only Gun", I would leave the stock spring in on a carry gun. If a paper punching gun misfires, who cares? You don't ever want to take a chance with a carry gun. Just MHO of course.......
Chief38
Chief38
revolvergeek
Member
On range / sporting guns (i.e. Kit Guns) I have used the Wolf #13 pound rebound spring to get a nice reduction in trigger pull. I generally would not go that light a rebound spring on a defensive gun, and I never go to reduced mainsprings.
ordy
US Veteran
What is the disadvantage of a lighter main spring?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Messages
- 19,624
- Reaction score
- 31,129
A lighter main spring can lead to a FTF if it is too light or just on the edge. A rebound spring that is too light will cause the trigger to return very sluggishly; something you do not need in a gun fight.
ordy
US Veteran
had a brain cramp. I knew that when I thought about it but thanks for the confirmation.
Although the nomenclature isn't perfectly defined, changing only the main and rebound springs is generally referred to as a "trigger job", while stoning the lockwork and contact points generally connotes an "action job"; to further confuse things, an "action job" can include changing the main and rebound springs, too.
You can certainly reduce trigger pull by lightening the main and rebound springs alone, and if the action on the given piece is already quite smooth, that may well be enough. But conventional gunsmithing wisdom holds that a trigger pull that isn't already smooth will only be accentuated in its lack thereof by reducing the pull with lightened springs.
In other words, if the trigger pull has grit or hitch at any point in travel, lightening the springs will only make the flaw more noticeable.
I'd argue that great trigger feel begins (and often ends) with proper (meaning safely and appropriately done) smoothing of all contact points in the entire revolver, and determining thereafter if lighter springs are called for. If so, much experimentation is required to find the right balance between the new main and rebound springs poundages for both feel and reliability.
ordy
US Veteran
Thanks Hapworth. Perfectly explained and informative. Much obliged.
Last edited:
