J Frame trigger upgrade?

[mikerjf]

I hated the feel of the spring kit, and have stuck with stock since then (on 5 different J’s). But I know other people like them, they’re cheap, and reversible. Don’t hurt to give it a try.

 

[crc4]

I hated the feel of the spring kit, and have stuck with stock since then (on 5 different J’s). But I know other people like them, they’re cheap, and reversible. Don’t hurt to give it a try.

If you know what you're doing you can polish the action in the right spots and never need to change the springs.

Very often, people complain about the trigger pull weight when it's actually the smoothness that's lacking.

Making it smoother makes the trigger pull feel less heavy.

 

[Peak53]

Yes, I'm on the carefully polish bandwagon and then shoot another 500 rounds - or dryfire. You will be surprised one day to wake up and think "Hey, this feels great!"

 

[stansdds]

Proper polishing can work wonders for a double action revolver and when done properly, does not affect function nor safety.

 

[tws3boys]

Proper polishing can work wonders for a double action revolver and when done properly, does not affect function nor safety.

I would consider polishing. But, I have not found a gunsmith anywhere near me and I expect the cost would be high if I did manage to find one.

 

[crc4]

I would consider polishing. But, I have not found a gunsmith anywhere near me and I expect the cost would be high if I did manage to find one.

If you're willing to learn,and have the simplest tools, it's an easy job. You take your time, polish, refit, and test.

A simple polish job is within anyone's capability with the right attitude.

Plus, there's a dearth of 'gunsmiths' who actually know how to do simple jobs. The guy at the LGS who claims to be a 'gunsmith' because he can change grips on a revolver is not to be trusted.

 

[stansdds]

Polishing the double action surfaces is fairly easy to do, it's the single action engagement surfaces that usually get people into trouble.

 

[tws3boys]

Polishing the double action surfaces is fairly easy to do, it's the single action engagement surfaces that usually get people into trouble.

I don't think I'm going to do a polish job. I was thinking of using a little dab of Flitz "Non-abrasive" on contact surfaces when I go in to clean and oil. . I used Flitz on a Taurus g3c that just could not get a round into the chamber. Since over a 1000 rounds without a single fail.

 

[Ken6PPC]

I don't think I'm going to do a polish job. I was thinking of using a little dab of Flitz "Non-abrasive" on contact surfaces when I go in to clean and oil. . I used Flitz on a Taurus g3c that just could not get a round into the chamber. Since over a 1000 rounds without a single fail.

Smoothing the sliding surfaces is an easy job, and won't hurt ANYTHING. The main place to avoid polishing or smoothing is the sear and hammer surfaces where they mate up. That requires expertise that most of us simply do not have.

I use a medium Norton India stone to simply take off any high spots from the hammer sides and rebound slide sides and bottom.

Smooth the high spots on the flat side of the hammer shown facing you in the photo, and on the flat side opposite.

Smith & Wesson J-Frame Hammer, Enclosed: MGW

Smooth the sides and the bottom of the rebound side as well.

Rebound Slide Assembly, J Frame, Mis-Machined | Gun Parts Corp.

 

[tws3boys]

I decided to take a look inside to see if everything was in good working order or it needed a good cleaning.
I pulled the cylinder and found the shaft it rides on was a little grungy. Not bad, but could use a cleaning. A little ballistol on a pad cleaned it up nice. Lubed it up with some ewg and put it back. Took the side plate off to check out the trigger works. To my surprise it was pretty dang clean. At least for a 23 year old gun. Still had plenty of oil where it needed to be. All those years and there was still factory oil in there. And, it looked clear and clean.
Everything looked real good so I just soaked up some of the old oil on a pad and cleaned around the edges. A few drops of Hopp's Elite oil " probably a little too much" and put the side plate back on.
Sitting there dry firing a few minutes I decided I'm not going to do a trigger job. I actually liked the feel just the way it is.

 

[studenygreg]

Not that it's just, but a prosecutor would use that against you to "show" you made your gun an easier tool to kill with. Yes, I know it is stupid - but that is precisely what they do now days.



The other thing that no one mentioned here is this..... A small framed gun always is harder to fire smoothly than a larger framed gun with the same trigger pull weight - at least to me. So even if a J Frame trigger pull isn't appreciably heavier than a K Frame it certainly might give the impression of being so. Not only that but I'd also think that the lighter and smaller J Frame Hammer would need a little bit more force to reliably set off a primer. In order to lighten up a small J Frame that might be sacrificed.

I have never heard of this being used in a case. Can you post a link to a case where this happened? I would like to read about it.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[studenygreg]

You could be correct - I am not a Lawyer and can't say for certain. I can only base my opinion on what I read and see on the news. Today's court proceedings and rulings seem to be bases as much on propaganda by the MSM and such as they are by the facts. Who is in power at the time has much to do with the results as well. Today, public opinion sometimes means more than what is right or wrong. I think we have all realized what they call an assault weapon does not and never has fit the criteria of what it really is by definition. Does that matter to a jury or a judge?

What cases are you referring to?

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[BKLooney]

My model 642's trigger was not pleasant...I installed the Apex kit and, although I can't tell you the actual trigger pull as I don't have a way to measure, I have been very satisfied with it. Going into it I was apprehensive about reliability as this was going to be, and is, a carry gun. Now I have close to 800 rounds through the revolver and there hasn't been a single time I've pulled the trigger and it didn't go boom.

If you install any spring kits or do any trigger modifications put some rounds through it, put a lot of rounds through it!

 

[Kenneth07ex]

I do see where S&W says any non-gunsmith adjustments to the gun will void the lifetime warranty.

As long as you don't change the gun frame itself, there's no reason why s&w wouldn't warranty it. I have to remove any non factory upgrades from my sent in revolvers. Stuff like aftermarket springs can get replaced while they have it as it doesn't meet factory specs with a six pound trigger pull.

 

[Old cop]

I believe Mas Ayoob wrote an article on this topic awhile ago, although at my age the memory ain’t what it used to be. That said I don’t modify any carry gun beyond changing the grips to accommodate my big hands. To each their own . . .

 

[Joker18]

The 642 (Airweight) has an outstanding and smooth trigger pull right out of the box. It is heavy however. Two items that will make a big difference (and kept me from selling mine) are as follows:
1. Get a new set of Hogue grips. Yeah they are bigger however they cover the back strap with a slight space that makes the rubber "give" a bit and takes all the sting and snappiness away. The grip also positions your trigger finger on the trigger better and gives the feeling of a lighter pull.
2. Most of the blame for the heavier trigger pull goes to the trigger return spring. I believe it is 19# from the factory. I replaced mine with a 14# spring and "wow" what a difference. Trigger pull is now 9.5# average and since I did not replace the hammer spring, I have no worries about light primer strikes.
I also almost sold the pistol because I could only get through half a box of standard .38 Special (approx. 25 rounds) before the web of my hand hurt so much I was done for the day. With the Hogue grip I can shoot the pistol all day, any .38 Special. The 9.5# trigger pull helped with double action shooting with respect to accuracy.

 

[329]

Yes the rebound spring can make a big difference. Doing this without reducing the mainspring will lower the trigger pull without compromising the primer ignition. The trick is getting a smooth reliable rebound with the lighter springs. There was a thread on the Brian Enos forum about polishing the rebound spring housing and the mating part on the hammer. It has worked well for me but like anything else so it at your own risk. On the below link check out the post by "toolguy".
Miculek trigger rebound - Revolver Forum - Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

 

[rockquarry]

I've had many J-frame .38s over more than fifty years. I've learned to shoot these guns as they come from the box, unmolested including the factory stocks. All have been 100% reliable. If you shoot them enough to improve your shooting skills (that's a lot of shooting for many of us) you become accustomed to them as is, or at least that has been my experience.

You'll find these guns shoot surprisingly well, even at twenty-five yards, but it takes practice and a spring change won't make you a good shooter. "Upgrades" as someone already mentioned aren't necessarily improvements, they are often changes only and may really be "downgrades". Shoot the J-frames as they are, at least at first. When you see an improvement in shooting skills, ask yourself if you need that spring "upgrade". You'll likely decide against it.

As for the Internet quasi-lawyers and gunfighting theorists and their cautious outlook on springs, etc., they need something to obsess over to feel normal. Accept these folks as they are; they're harmless, but I'm not sure about their advice.

 

[Dump1567]

I usually order these for .38/.357 (.22's use a different kit):

Wolff Shooter's Spring Pack S&W J-Frame Reduced Power from MidwayUSA

You get an 8 lb. Hammer Spring (Factory is 8.5 lbs. per Wolff) Although my early 80's model 60 seemed heavier than an 8.5 lb.

And a 13, 14, 15 lb. rebound Spring (Factory is 18 lbs. per Wolff)

I usually use the 14 lb. rebound and 8 lb. hammer. I than verify my gun works reliably with whatever ammo I'm going to be using.

You can also stone out some of the rough edges of the action if you have the skill set.

This should lighten and smooth the action out without losing reliability. But all guns can be different (why you need to test your ammo for reliability).

I don't know if it was already posted, but here's Jerry's Video on the subject you can also order from MidwayUSA.

Gun Video "Trigger Job: Complete Action Tuning for S&W Revolvers with Jerry Miculek" DVD