i just bought brand new the SD40VE and i have only shot it once i have used blazer aluminum ammo and every three rounds the gun has jammed on me i put 50 rounds through the pistol and every three rounds it has jammed i did field strip it and clean it before i ever shot it and it is still jamming on me i am wondering if it is the ammo or the gun itself?
jamming issue
- Thread starter mdhulst
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Odds are it is either the ammo or user error.
I have heard of others having difficultly with the aluminum cased, especially in 40.
Try other ammo and keep a firm grip. Then try the other again.
Also, load the mags fully and let them sit 4-6 days to help with the new stiff springs.
I have heard of others having difficultly with the aluminum cased, especially in 40.
Try other ammo and keep a firm grip. Then try the other again.
Also, load the mags fully and let them sit 4-6 days to help with the new stiff springs.
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You have not said what the jam is or when it occurs (during what part of the sequence).
Describe what is happening. "Jam" is too vague to know anything.
For example, if it is not feeding properly it could be the ammo or magazine , if it is not extracting it could be the slide is short stroking because of loose/improper grip , or preventing the round from going into battery. Is it not ejecting? Is it double feeding? etc
Doc
Describe what is happening. "Jam" is too vague to know anything.
For example, if it is not feeding properly it could be the ammo or magazine , if it is not extracting it could be the slide is short stroking because of loose/improper grip , or preventing the round from going into battery. Is it not ejecting? Is it double feeding? etc
Doc
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martybee
Member
OP:
You have a magnificent SD handgun in the SD40ve. Don't sell it short!
As DR. Denby said, "Describe what is happening. "Jam" is too vague to know anything."
Perhaps it is locking back the slide, which could mean you're 'Riding the slide lock with your thumb'.
Any number of things may be preventing it from functioning properly!
Please describe the symptoms! Someone will come along and explain how to alleviate the problem. And also.... Welcome to the forum!!
mb
You have a magnificent SD handgun in the SD40ve. Don't sell it short!
As DR. Denby said, "Describe what is happening. "Jam" is too vague to know anything."
Perhaps it is locking back the slide, which could mean you're 'Riding the slide lock with your thumb'.
Any number of things may be preventing it from functioning properly!
Please describe the symptoms! Someone will come along and explain how to alleviate the problem. And also.... Welcome to the forum!!
mb
First thing, have somebody else shoot it . . .
HOUSTON RICK
Member
Ditto, preferably someone with more experience. When using the economy (but good) firearm and the economy (and probably not so good) ammunition, you have to wonder why so many others pay more. Not to knock your freedom of choice, but realistically if you are a beginner; you are going to find more than average differences from desired performance at your chosen price level that very likely can be overcome with more experience/practice with the specific gun. Choice is yours, but long term I would not shoot aluminum - at least in a gun that I owned. Becoming proficient with this gun can be fun and rewarding like others, but like most things will take a little work and some early frustration. This is common with new semi-automatic owners do not let it frustrate you. Good luck!
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martybee
Member
Good Advise from HOUSTON RICK!
Do not shoot aluminum cased ammo in your new gun! You have no way of knowing whether or not it will tolerate the ammo without issues.
I would not shoot steel cased ammo for the same reason!
After you are comfortable with you firearm, then you can try economy rounds to see if there are any adverse effects.
mb
Do not shoot aluminum cased ammo in your new gun! You have no way of knowing whether or not it will tolerate the ammo without issues.
I would not shoot steel cased ammo for the same reason!
After you are comfortable with you firearm, then you can try economy rounds to see if there are any adverse effects.
mb
Ammo
I guess there is one slight advantage of an SD9 compared to an SD40 in this kind of problem.
The 9mm Luger rounds have slightly tapered cases so they are (I assume) easer to extract.
I guess there is one slight advantage of an SD9 compared to an SD40 in this kind of problem.
The 9mm Luger rounds have slightly tapered cases so they are (I assume) easer to extract.
Thank you all for the advice I will try a new brand of ammo.....the jam is happening while the round is being ejected the new round is not loading all the way I have pulled several bullets when the jam does happen that the slide is not going forward all the way and it causes the bullet to be pushed back into the casing
Disabled1
US Veteran
I have shot EVERY make of ammo in my SW9 & 40VE, SD9VE, and have NEVER had a problem with ANY of it. Even in my 5906, it eats ANYTHING I feed it! So, telling the OP not to shoot a certain kind of ammo is kind of standoffish! If there were something wrong with steel/aluminum case ammo, do you think it would be on store/gun shop shelves? BTW, I am currently shooting TULA steel case ammo in ALL of my aforementioned pistols.
You may have to do some work on your grip. The .40 S&W isn't the worst 'starting' caliber for a new shooter, but it's not the
easiest.
Let someone with more experience try pistol and same ammo, and see how it functions.
Also, if you've got some rounds with the bullet noticeably pushed back in the case, set them aside. Let someone knowledgeable take a look at em. Bullet set-back can really push the chamber pressure up, and it's incremental--the deeper the bullet gets pushed into the case, the higher the chamber pressure that round will generate. Getting a blown-out case wouldn't be a fun experience.
TriumphMan
Member
I can understand the jamming, as long as it's not limp wristing.
Aluminum ammos have slightly thicker case walls to keep strength, and not swell rediculously under fire and still be extracted. They can't bend and give like the steel or brass ammos can. It also has to be down-loaded with powder grains too, which makes it a softer shooter. Manufacturers know that these shouldn't be used for reloading either, so they're a cheaper option for shooters over brass ammo.
So, you have 2 problems with aluminum ammos.
One, the thicker aluminum cases to handle case swelling pressures after firing, which makes for a stiffer case and has harder time trying to load into a steep ramped type chamber.
Two, the powder load is backed off to keep ammo pressures in check, which throws off the slide's timing with extraction and round pickup for insertion.
Some guns can handle every ammo out there, while others get testy and only like certain kind of ammos.
A semiauto gun has these things to go overcome in order to work correctly.
Slide spring rebound/recoil weight for the type of firing action.
Weight of the slide according to the caliber and firing action.
Positive hand hold procedures.
Ammo type used.
Without all these working in unison, your gun doesn't work properly, as timing will be out of synch and requires a change or changes, either in parts, procedures, or products used.
One thing that's not been mentioned yet.
What type of gun oil is used?
Some is conventional and will burn or drip off quickly, while if synthetic or/and thicker grade, could last longer and isn't affected as much with the heat of long sessions of usage or clinging to metal better.
Aluminum ammos have slightly thicker case walls to keep strength, and not swell rediculously under fire and still be extracted. They can't bend and give like the steel or brass ammos can. It also has to be down-loaded with powder grains too, which makes it a softer shooter. Manufacturers know that these shouldn't be used for reloading either, so they're a cheaper option for shooters over brass ammo.
So, you have 2 problems with aluminum ammos.
One, the thicker aluminum cases to handle case swelling pressures after firing, which makes for a stiffer case and has harder time trying to load into a steep ramped type chamber.
Two, the powder load is backed off to keep ammo pressures in check, which throws off the slide's timing with extraction and round pickup for insertion.
Some guns can handle every ammo out there, while others get testy and only like certain kind of ammos.
A semiauto gun has these things to go overcome in order to work correctly.
Slide spring rebound/recoil weight for the type of firing action.
Weight of the slide according to the caliber and firing action.
Positive hand hold procedures.
Ammo type used.
Without all these working in unison, your gun doesn't work properly, as timing will be out of synch and requires a change or changes, either in parts, procedures, or products used.
One thing that's not been mentioned yet.
What type of gun oil is used?
Some is conventional and will burn or drip off quickly, while if synthetic or/and thicker grade, could last longer and isn't affected as much with the heat of long sessions of usage or clinging to metal better.
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mnshutterbug
Member
I had to watch a youtube video of a Glock being limp wristed in slow motion to understand what limp wristing is. 
Please
It's,
failure to advance
failure to feed
failure to chamber
failure to fire
failure to extract
failure to eject
A failure to advance occurs when the slide overrides the top cartridge in the magazine.
It's,
failure to advance
failure to feed
failure to chamber
failure to fire
failure to extract
failure to eject
A failure to advance occurs when the slide overrides the top cartridge in the magazine.
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Big Cholla
Member
I agree with several posts before me that is probably your grip technique. This may be as simple as you are relaxing your grip each time you shoot, but in case it isn't here is somethings to try:
Clean the handgun with solvent do not oil or grease anything.
Clean the magazines with solvent after they have been totally disassembled.
Get high pressure (snappy) brass cased ammo with a rounded bullet.
Go to the range and:
Grip the handgun with both hands and squeeze as hard as it takes for your hands to start trembling. Back off 10% in grip force. You have now established the grip strength you need to use.
Lean forward in a "C" position with 60% of your weight on your toes. Pigeon toe your feet slightly. Face the target directly.
Assume an "Isosceles" position.
Have a good supply of magazines with two rounds loaded. Shoot 50 rounds 2 shots at a time.
Clean the handgun and lightly grease the slide and oil the trigger area.
Repeat shooting with 4 rounds loaded. Don't relax your grip or straighten up while shooting.
Carefully analyse any jams you incurred trying to figure out what went on in the gun/grip/stance situation to contribute.
By the time you have another 100 rounds thru this handgun you will be confident of it and you will be a better shot.
There is a very slight chance that your recoil spring is not up to specification. They are cheap. Buy a direct stock replacement and have it ready if required. .......... Good luck. This is a quality handgun and deserves to be worked with to get right.
BTW: If you do all the above, I would be very interested in knowing where the ejected brass was landing and how far out from your firing position.
Clean the handgun with solvent do not oil or grease anything.
Clean the magazines with solvent after they have been totally disassembled.
Get high pressure (snappy) brass cased ammo with a rounded bullet.
Go to the range and:
Grip the handgun with both hands and squeeze as hard as it takes for your hands to start trembling. Back off 10% in grip force. You have now established the grip strength you need to use.
Lean forward in a "C" position with 60% of your weight on your toes. Pigeon toe your feet slightly. Face the target directly.
Assume an "Isosceles" position.
Have a good supply of magazines with two rounds loaded. Shoot 50 rounds 2 shots at a time.
Clean the handgun and lightly grease the slide and oil the trigger area.
Repeat shooting with 4 rounds loaded. Don't relax your grip or straighten up while shooting.
Carefully analyse any jams you incurred trying to figure out what went on in the gun/grip/stance situation to contribute.
By the time you have another 100 rounds thru this handgun you will be confident of it and you will be a better shot.
There is a very slight chance that your recoil spring is not up to specification. They are cheap. Buy a direct stock replacement and have it ready if required. .......... Good luck. This is a quality handgun and deserves to be worked with to get right.
BTW: If you do all the above, I would be very interested in knowing where the ejected brass was landing and how far out from your firing position.
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hell ya, tula rocks! i rarely have an issue with tula. i used9mm luger, 380 acp, 223 etc.
