JP Ent. Trigger, Hammer, Disconector Springs

[G26ster]

Just received my JP Ent. Trigger, Hammer, Disconector Springs. I see there is a note on the package that says, "May cause ignition failures with some types of ammunition with low sensitivity primers."

Has anyone experienced this, and if so, with which ammo? Thanks.

 

[M Z]

Probably referring to center-fire cartridges?

 

[Boxerglocker]

Probably referring to center-fire cartridges?

The kit is designed for an actual standard 223/556 AR so I would think so. I got one of these kits last Midway order. Still sitting on the bench. I'm a little skidish about installing it. Read some posts where guys are having issues after installation. My rifle is running 100% eating everything I have given it so far and really don't want to go through the growing pains of getting it to do so after installing the springs.

 

[berzerker]

have had the JP triggergoup for about a year now and the 15-22 had had 18.000 + rounds fed since, a steady diet of mainly cci blazer, but with a healthy helping of cci minimag, cci standard and Lapua (SK) standard. It has fired every single time I pulled the trigger when there was a cartridge in the chamber.

 

[G26ster]

Well rats. I went ahead and installed the JP kit, but got the original disconnector spring, and JP disconnector spring confused. I installed the one that was "blue" but something tells me the one that came with the kit was natural stainless. Can anyone ID the correct JP spring?

 

[DLParis]

Well rats. I went ahead and installed the JP kit, but got the original disconnector spring, and JP disconnector spring confused. I installed the one that was "blue" but something tells me the one that came with the kit was natural stainless. Can anyone ID the correct JP spring?

My factory disconnector spring is blue, so it sounds like you reinstalled the original.

Also, did you get the 3.5 or 4.0lb spring kit?
I read that a couple members had some FTF using the 3.5, so I ordered the 4.0-4.5 spring and found it heavy. I was about to re install the factory springs when I decided (what the hell) to cut one of the arms from the JP hammer spring as indicated in the (factory spring)/15 minute trigger job. It seemed at the time to be defeating the purpose of the new spring installation, but I couldn't imagine the stock trigger feeling any better after this and the polishing.

BTW, Thanks to Brett and Brett (248Vista & Belt Fed) for the info on the fire group and spring installation.

 

[G26ster]

My factory disconnector spring is blue, so it sounds like you reinstalled the original.

Also, did you get the 3.5 or 4.0lb spring kit?
I read that a couple members had some FTF using the 3.5, so I ordered the 4.0-4.5 spring and found it heavy. I was about to re install the factory springs when I decided (what the hell) to cut one of the arms from the JP hammer spring as indicated in the (factory spring)/15 minute trigger job. It seemed at the time to be defeating the purpose of the new spring installation, but I couldn't imagine the stock trigger feeling any better after this and the polishing.

BTW, Thanks to Brett and Brett (248Vista & Belt Fed) for the info on the fire group and spring installation.

It figures I'm not sure how much the disconnector spring counts in reducing the trigger pull though, but I can easily change it around. BTW, mine is the 3.5 kit. Thanks for the info.

 

[G26ster]

Well I went ahead and installed the JP disconnector spring, and took the factory blue spring out that I failed to the first time when I put in the JP trigger and hammer springs. But I have a question that can be easily answered by anyone with a 15-22 handy.

When the lower is off the rifle, or just broken open with the rear pin out, when I pull the trigger with the safety on FIRE (hand in front of the hammer of course to cushion it), the trigger clicks first with slight pressure, the hammer moves slightly forward, and then when the trigger is pulled again, the hammer falls as it should. I don't want to dry fire and see if it does the same with the action closed, but with the action closed, slight pressure on the trigger does not cause the same effect so I'm hoping all is well. So, could someone let me know if I did something wrong changing the springs? Or, is this normal? Thanks.

PS: This is not a trigger creep issue. Before I changed the springs, I had zero creep in the FIRE position, and there is still zero creep in the FIRE position with the action CLOSED.

 

[DLParis]

When the lower is off the rifle, or just broken open with the rear pin out, when I pull the trigger with the safety on FIRE (hand in front of the hammer of course to cushion it), the trigger clicks first with slight pressure, the hammer moves slightly forward, and then when the trigger is pulled again, the hammer falls as it should. .

Just curious if you polished the sear. Before I did the trigger job on mine, it did the same thing due to the machining "grooves" in the hammer sear. I'm not sure if this would be the problem in your case, because you would have mos def felt this before you installed the new springs.

Just a thought.

 

[G26ster]

Just curious if you polished the sear. Before I did the trigger job on mine, it did the same thing due to the machining "grooves" in the hammer sear. I'm not sure if this would be the problem in your case, because you would have mos def felt this before you installed the new springs.

Just a thought.

No, I did not polish the sear. Are you saying that yours does NOT do this now, with the action open (lower released from upper)?

What I need is for someone with a stock or modified spring 15-22 to actually try this and confirm if I have a problem or not.

 

[DLParis]

No, I did not polish the sear. Are you saying that yours does NOT do this now, with the action open (lower released from upper)?

What I need is for someone with a stock or modified spring 15-22 to actually try this and confirm if I have a problem or not.

No, mine does not do this now. Before polishing, the trigger felt "sandy" because of the machining flaws. Mine was so bad, I could actually hear what could be described as "clicking" as I was pulling the trigger. If this was the case with your gun, you would feel this whether the action was open or closed.

 

[G26ster]

No, mine does not do this now. Before polishing, the trigger felt "sandy" because of the machining flaws. Mine was so bad, I could actually hear what could be described as "clicking" as I was pulling the trigger. If this was the case with your gun, you would feel this whether the action was open or closed.

I only feel and hear it on FIRE, with the action open. The trigger does not do this with the action closed. Putting slight pressure on the trigger, or even jarring the gun causes this with the action open, but the trigger is rock solid with the action closed.

 

[DLParis]

I only feel and hear it on FIRE, with the action open. The trigger does not do this with the action closed. Putting slight pressure on the trigger, or even jarring the gun causes this with the action open, but the trigger is rock solid with the action closed.

I'm sure someone will chime in with a solution, but at first thought I was guessing your springs may have changed the tension on the sears and you were experiencing (noticing) the problem more so now.

I'm in no way an expert, but it's my opinion that you remove the fire group and definitely polish the hammer sear. This is a notorious problem with these rifles. Since the spring installation is very simple and straight forward, if there "is" another problem, chances are good you will find it then.

 

[G26ster]

I'm sure someone will chime in with a solution, but at first thought I was guessing your springs may have changed the tension on the sears and you were experiencing (noticing) the problem more so now.

I'm in no way an expert, but it's my opinion that you remove the fire group and definitely polish the hammer sear. This is a notorious problem with these rifles. Since the spring installation is very simple and straight forward, if there "is" another problem, chances are good you will find it then.

Well I lightly polished the trigger sear and the hammer notch (sear) and the results are the same. DLParis, I really appreciate your help on this. You say yours doesn't do it after a polish job, but:

I'd really, really like someone with stock springs, or no polish job, to just try what I stated in my earlier post when I said, "When the lower is off the rifle, or just broken open with the rear pin out, when I pull the trigger with the safety on FIRE (hand in front of the hammer of course to cushion it), the trigger clicks first with slight pressure, the hammer moves slightly forward, and then when the trigger is pulled again, the hammer falls as it should. I don't want to dry fire and see if it does the same with the action closed, but with the action closed, slight pressure on the trigger does not cause the same effect.."

If you do this, please report the results back to this thread. Thanks.

 

[chuck s]

The M&P15-22 uses standard spec AR15 trigger and hammer which are the same as the M16 minus the AUTO capability.

The AR15 and M16 hammers move backwards very slightly during trigger pull because of the sear angles. Once they reach the end of the sear engagement, of course, they go forward. Springs have no effect on this motion but a lighter hammer spring lightens the trigger pull as it takes less effort to move the hammer spring that tiny distance against the hammer spring pressure.

If the hammer ain't making that slight rearwards move when the trigger is pulled the sear angles are buggered.

Polishing the sear on these rifles is dangerous unless you're only using a Qtip and polish. Anything motorized can cut thru the thin surface hardening and while the trigger will be wonderful for a short time the soft surfaces will wear and you're back where you started.

The JP springs merely substitute lighter spring rates for standard. No magic here unless yellow paint is some sort of voodoo. You can get the same trigger weight reduction by clipping one leg of the hammer spring and bending the trigger spring legs (Google the "15 Minute AR15 Trigger Job").

If you need the standard springs they're available at any gun show and maybe larger gun shops. Brownells, of course, has them. These are rarely broken or replaced parts so don't expect to see them in blister packs at WalMart.

-- Chuck

 

[G26ster]

Problem solved! Hammer spring in upside down or backwards. Won't happen again, that's for sure - maybe

Chuck s - I only used a q-tip and polish.

 

[chuck s]

Good on the polish. The note was mainly for lurkers and those with Dremel tools.

I found only laboratory measurement differences between the JP springs and the 15-minute spring modifications. But since the yellow springs were the last ones in the rifle they're still there.

-- Chuck

 

[davevt48732]

I have the yellow springs on mine and love it!

 

[G26ster]

Range report for JP 3.5lb spring kit.

Wow! What a difference. Smooth, light pull. No FTFs in approx. 200rd (Win 333). Night and day from stock trigger pull weight. BTW, I only very lightly polished the sear (front of trigger) and the hammer notch with a q-tip and polish in addition to the JP spring kit..

 

[Star4Ever]

I put the JP 3.5 pound spring set in my new 15-22.
My trigger was fairly good before the spring change. Showing no creep and what was to me a crisp let off.
The JP yellow spring set has made a good trigger better.
Quite a simple procedure.