Just finished 1st trigger job SW 640-1

[mbliss57]

I finally took the plunge and watched enough videos to try my hand at smoothing out and reducing trigger pull weight on my SW640-1 357. I bought the Apex trigger spring kit and that I really had no need for videos. But the polishing of the rebound slide and hammer and frame areas I did after watching a couple of good gun smithing videos. I found this one very good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4GtXq2XXOI&feature=plcp#t=1074.822178
I bought a set of ceramic polishing files with differing shapes from round rod, triangle and wedges. They worked very nicely. The only thing I still don't have is a trigger scale. I have one on order. So I don't know how heavy it was (felt like factory 12# pull.) Trigger is much smoother know and is probably around 8#. I am happy with the result for sure. I see this happening to alot more of my revolvers now.

 

[DanWales]

640 Trigger Work

I installed the Apex kit as well.

Before the DA pull was 13 or more it errored out my scale. The trigger was rough but not outrageous. Lots of smoothing took care of that.

Installed the kit, DA is now almost dead 9 lbs but the good news it is smooth and feels like I dropped the trigger pull by 10 lbs.

I have fired several brands in it 38 + P and 357 and a couple hundred reloads using CCI primers. No misfires.

The 640 is a heavy J frame and absorbs the recoil well. I put a set of Decelerator grips on it, they are a little fatter than stock but they absorb a lot of recoil too. In my opinion they aren't that difficult to hide concealed. Sure worth it to me especially when you are firing 25 to 50 rds.

Dan

 

[tcon]

I used the same video as a reference to polish the friction points in my wife's 642 and my MP340. Before the treatment, both revolvers had a slight bit of felt metal-on-metal after 1000-2000 dry fires.

Wasn't concerned with the trigger pull weight given that these are pretty much self-defense pieces, I was more after 100% safe, smooth operation and consistent hammer release.

The only spring change I did was the trigger rebound in my wife's 642 going from the reported 18# factory to a 13# Wolf. Tested hers thoroughly for 100% positive trigger return. Left the factory rebound spring in my 340 and left the original hammer springs in both.

Both guns now have silky smooth operation and I feel absolutely no metal-on-metal resistance.

 

[gwpercle]

You need to make darn sure the gun will fire 100% of the time with the ammo you will carry, you might have to stake your life on it one day and there's nothing worse than when in a "situation" to hear a click instead of a bang.
Silky smooth operation is nice but going bang is a must.
You will not believe how many times I did a "trigger job" just to discover the gun would not fire all the time. Back to the video and heavier spring .
After getting a gun that had a trigger job done by Clark Custom Guns I realized I had absolutely no idea how to do a proper trigger job, those guy's do magic to a gun...I hung up my video and spring kit jobs.
Gary

 

[mbliss57]

Well I was able to get to the range today and I was very happy with the results of my 1st trigger job on my 640. I took my 649-3 also a 357 magnum with stock trigger. They were night and day different. I will likely do the 649 or 638 trigger next. Very smooth and much easier to hold for 2nd shot. I fired over 100 rounds through the 640-1 with no FTFs I also checked the primers after each round of 5 and they were well punctured. They were not just barely dented. So I am confident I have plenty of spring tension for reliable strikes every time. I shot both 38 special range ammo and my 357 carry ammo. Both ran just fine. What a sweet shooting little J frame now.