Just found a nice Model 38 Bodyguard

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Working at the gun shop once again has its advantages! Fairly clean Model 38 Bodyguard came in on consignment for $500. I put in Commiefornia 10 day jail. It has a 6 digit serial number like 27XXXX with no prefix. Guessing 1955 + or -. About 95%. with original wood grips. I forgot to write the serial number down, but will get it and pictures Friday. We were swamped today and couldn't even take time to do it,

At 14 ozs, I was surprised how light it was! I'll load it with some standard velocity WW Silvertip 110 grains. In Sticky Holster, with a couple Bianchi "Speed Strips" for back up, it will make a great summer front pocket pistol.
 
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Congrats.

If you're right on the serial number S&W shipped it in either 1962 or 1963.

The first known Bodyguard is serial number 73781. It also has the earliest known Bodyguard ship date, either December 12 or 15, 1955. It was engraved to Chief Raymond P. Gallagher, Springfield, Mass. It's now in the Connecticut Valley Historical Museum in Springfield.

Did you check for a cracked frame on the flat where the barrel protrudes through the frame?
 
I foolishly let my Model 38 go and have been on the hunt for a replacement ever since. Congrats on your find, enjoy.
 
I did not check for the crack! I'll stop by and check for it, get pics, and serial number. I knew that +P were a no-go in early Airweights.

I am guessing if it is cracked, it is non-repairable.
 
I did not check for the crack! I'll stop by and check for it, get pics, and serial number. I knew that +P were a no-go in early Airweights.

I am guessing if it is cracked, it is non-repairable.

No, but S&W may send you a new gun. They did for me on a used 1980's model 10 I bought with a cracked frame. That was about 2 years ago. Not sure if they'll still do that?
 
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Its sort of scruffy at the moment. A couple small spots of surface rust that should disappear with brass wool, otherwise bluing is very strong. The paint on the alloy frame has some small nicks in it, too. I'll clean the grips with a toothbrush and mineral spirits and RLO (50/50) to freshen it up.

As I said, no cracks on the frame. I'll stick to non-+P ammo. I have some standard velocity Winchester 110 grain Silvertips (current production) that will work nicely.

I heard the gun was part of a large collection that was seized by the Sheriff 's Dept. when the (edit: Owner died) It was finally released by the Sheriff's department and the the family is selling for the estate.
 
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J-frame cracks

I did not check for the crack! I'll stop by and check for it, get pics, and serial number. I knew that +P were a no-go in early Airweights.

I am guessing if it is cracked, it is non-repairable.
I love mine!
I paid IIRC $450 in a local RRRMSLIST sale. I have found it to be worth twice the price in practical value because I carry it as my NY reload because it is so lightweight.

The barrel shroud is not about snagging when you draw from a pocket, it is for shooting FROM the pocket. With another j-frame you can learn to put your thumb on the exposed hammer and draw just as fast as me, but I can shoot from a coat pocket, which does NOT ALWAYS set the coat on fire. If it does you can pat the fire out pretty easily :-)

Mine is an early 80's model and somebody scared me about the cracks, so I studied extensively on that issue. There is a guy here on the forum that took pictures of his when it cracked, so it did and does actually happen sometimes.

Proposed solutions were:
-Mas Ayoob wore out numerous ones even using +p ammo, no cracks.
-One guy kept shooting his for hundreds more rounds after the crack appeared. Everyone said he was a fool to do this. He saw no change in the accuracy of the gun.
-More than one person who was worried about cracks bought a model 49 to practice with and put the lighter 38 in the pocket. This pleases the "carried a lot shot a little" crowd and causes grave concern amongst the "shoot what you carry, carry what you shoot" crowd.
-It seems to be caused by "over torquing the barrel" during manufacture and the crack will appear quickly. There is said to be greater chance of this if yours has been a safe queen but if it has not happened in 200 rounds, or 500 rounds, or 1000 rounds, or whatever number you please, then it ain'ta gonna happen.
-A woman claiming to have worked in some development capacity at S&W, who knows? TIFWIW, said that the problem is the differing expansion rates between the steel of the barrel, and the aluminum alloy of the frame. In her opinion it is the number of rounds that you shoot at once that matters, how hot the barrel gets, not the total round count that matters.
-We hear about this a lot because so many people own these guns. We don't know why it happens because it doesn't happen often enough to get us reliable data to isolate a significant cause. It does happen often enough that S&W has a protocol for dealing with the issue for this model and all their airweight guns. Do a search on "Glock frame cracks" before you get too upset about it.

Mine has a real preference for Federal 130 grain FMC ammo.
It tumbles in human targets, though sometimes not in gelatin or so they say.
Reloads are wayyy easier with FMC. Wadcutters even SWC won't work either in strips, too slow, or in speed loaders, no way, not for me!
This round is better than any 380 ACP HP round or so they say.
Even 38spl +p hollow points do not reliably expand or fail to penetrate or so they say, especially after the polyester filler of my now flaming parka pocket has plugged the nose of the bullet.

My plan is to throw the burning jacket on him while I draw my second gun!

Sorry I was wordy.
Kind regards,
BrianD
 
The current production Winchester Silvertip 110 grain non+P opens up to about .55" from a 2" snub. I found an FBI spec gelatin test on Youtube, and they opened up beautifully. I have about 50 rounds of the WW 110 STHPs.

Also, cleaned the gun up today at the shop. The rust totally disappeared, and it actually looks better than I expected, about 95-98%+. I am very happy. 14.0 ozs empty, or 16 ozs with 5 (edited) rounds of WW STHPs. That's more than two ounces lighter than either my Ruger Max-9 or Springfield Armory Hellcat EMPTY! I believe it will be my summer front pocket pistol.
 
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I agree that a few rounds of +P will likely not damage the airweight, as they are less than proof loads. I do think that a lot may accelerate the wear. I have 110 grain +P+ Treasury loads that I would not shoot through an airweight, as I undrstand are close to proof loads.

I already had the non+P WW 110 STHPs that I bought to use in an old S&W Victory Model, so I'll probably stick to those.
 
I gave $500 for the bodyguard. It was so dowdy, though, that at first I thought it was a bit too much. After cleaning it up, though, it was a good price. The bore is pristine, lock up is tight, and timing perfect. Single action is a dream, and even the double is not too bad - fairly heavy but smooth, too.

I have a few Bianchi speed strips. For a pocket pistol, I prefer them to speed loaders, which are big lumps in the pocket.
 
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