Just started reloading and need different powder

Marshall 357

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Started using Bullseye Powder and it is very dirty. After 50 .38 spl rounds my M-66 was covered in powder smoke. What else can I use ?
 
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Why change?

Did your ammo shoot well? Where they accurate? What was recoil like?

There are many, many other things to be concerned with other than dirt on the outside of your firearm!

Just take a rag with you when you shoot and wipe it off!

Bullseye is one of the best 38spl powders around. Old fashioned? Yep, been used for over 100 years. Know why? 'Cause it works and it works great.

I thought that was the reason folks wanted stainless steel guns, easy clean-up.

The real problem will be in the chambers by shooting 38spl in a 357Mag. It doesn't matter what powder you use with lead bullets, you are going to get a carbon ring.

Here is my suggestion for powder types if you want a clean gun.
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Johnson and Johnson's baby powder! ;)

All other projectile propellants are going to cause smoke and dirt. It's a by product of things that explode(read burn fast).
 
Shooting is combustion and does create smoke and residue. If you want a comparison, try cleaning up after black powder.

I do like Trail Boss for my general purpose shooting loads. Easy to meter, fills the case well and is accurate enough. Cleans up easy. I use it in .38 spl, .357 mag, .41 mag, .44 mag, .45 AR and .45 Colt.
 
Try Red Dot. Cleaner than Bullseye and Unique (what isn't?) and is a venerable, flexible powder.
 
Skip:

I tried your suggestion and was quite dis-satisfied. Velocity just didn't measure up and that fine white dust just got into everything. I think I am just gonna stick with BE and a rag.:D

Frank
 
Skip:

I tried your suggestion and was quite dis-satisfied. Velocity just didn't measure up and that fine white dust just got into everything. I think I am just gonna stick with BE and a rag.:D

Frank


:D

Just guess I'm tired of the "controversy" of powder cleanness or cleanliness or whatever.

If I concoct a load that makes one hole groups out of a handgun @ 20 to 50 yards, I'm not going to care if it is dirty or not. I can clean my firearms and usually do after each shooting session. There are exceptions.

If I was concerned about how dirty my loads were I would have to stop casting my own bullets. Lead bullets and ANY powder is going to make a mess, some less than others, some more.

For example, I have heard of someone using Green Dot and lead bullets and almost closing the bore on a firearm (slight exaggeration) while TrailBoss leaves a minimal amount of fouling.

The only thing you cannot afford to have left over from the powder after a round goes bang is unburnt powder. #1, it's wasteful, and that goes against the re-loader's creed of doing all things because they are cheap! ;) #2, it proves your load is not developed correctly. You are losing something in either velocity or accuracy. #3, it's dangerous. Why? Unburnt powder can get into places that cause a firearm to jam. In competition it may cost you the prize, in a firefight, it may cost you your life.

I know, I know, you aren't supposed to use handloads for self defense. I do on purpose.

Here is a hypothetical though, and I know this is off topic, bear with me, please.

You went to the range to "freshen up" a bit on your tactical prowess. Of course, all you carry is factory ammo. Being the intelligent individual that you are, you use in practice what you use in real life. It just so happens you reload too. Your rounds are close to the same and you are happy with that. In a moment of exuberance on the range you let fly with all of your factory ammo. All you have left is 10 rounds of ones that you have "rolled" yourself. Do you put them in your firearm and go home with a loaded firearm or leave it empty?

For those of you that said; "Leave it empty", I'm not done with the scenario. Did I mention that you are driving one of the hottest cars on the market? In fact, you drive the #1 carjacked vehicle! At a stop light you are confronted by a thug that likes your car too and makes it a point to show you just how much. His first bullet smashes your window, and that is all. What do you do with your empty gun? Oh yeah, did I leave out that it was a family outing and your wife and daughters are in the car too?

What were we talking about? Oh yeah, clean and dirty guns, I almost forgot! :)

At any rate; here is my final suggestion on that matter. If cost is a factor in when you clean your firearms, here is the answer.

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm#Bore Cleaner

I have talked to "Ed" himself about this formula. He said it is the cheapest way to get the best results possible.

I hope this helps.
 
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If you are loading target loads, I find that Clays gives me good accuracy in .38 Special. It is about as clean shooting as it gets, and produces a soft recoil. 231/HP38 will work pretty well also, but is a bit dirty at moderate loads. Once you get to midrange and beyond, 231 is fairly clean. 231 is a very useful powder for pistol cartridges. It has a very wide range of applications from mild to fairly stout. .38, 9mm,.45Acp,etc. Unique has a broad range of application also, but at the low end of the spectrum it's pretty dirty also.
 
I load Clays, Bullseye, 231/HP38, Unique, Universal and SR7625 in 38/357 but Bullseye is my favorite. I'm sure some powders leave more residue than others but that's a moot point. I'm going to clean the gun anyway.

If you've just started and you got you're first 50 rounds down range with no more problems than a dirty gun you're off to a great start!
 
I've used AA2 in the past for light target loads and was pretty happy with it but the two powders I use mostly for loading .38Sp nowadays is 231 and AA5. As far as dirty is concerned, anytime you fire a gun you're gonna get soot and residues. As long as a load performs as I want it to I don't worry about dirty.
 
I use AA#5 and get very giid accuracy and it also meters well in my 550b and is about aas clean a powder as I have found.

LD
 
I need to stop being cranky!

OK, I reread my posts and thought: "Man, you were pretty sharp there dummy!" So, I thought I would demonstrate how little clean/dirty means in reality.

I have shot bullseye for quite a few years. Usually 3.5gr under any 158gr LSWC available. I used to use a purchased bullet but now cast my own. It is an H&G #290BB with my own homemade lube. Pure wheel weights, most of the time. Well, I thought I would help Bullseye be a little more dirty today and only load 3.0gr under that same bullet. Took the daughter's M14 with a 6" barrel to the range with 100 rounds of those homemade beauties!

When I got home, here is what the firearm looked like:
dirtycylinderside1.jpg


dirtyfrontcyl1.jpg


focingconetopstrap1.jpg


dirtymuzzle1.jpg


Then I went to the cleaning supply gettin' place and got out my homemade ED's Red and put some on a rag and gave her a quick once over:

homemadeEdsred.jpg


edsonrag.jpg


Wiped 'er down in about 2 minutes:

cleanwithjustragside1.jpg

(Not perfect but acceptable for a regularly used shooting iron!)

Couple more minutes with an old tooth brush:

cleanwithbrushside1.jpg


First patch:

firstpatch.jpg

(Notice that there is no lead.)

Second patch:

secondpatchclose.jpg


Bore:

cleanbore3.jpg


Now, it took me a while to get here but it was because I had to take all of these crazy pictures! If I was going as quickly as I could it would have only taken 5 minutes or so to get to this point.

Clean enough to stand a military inspection? NO! Clean enough to ensure function for the next time out? OH YEAH!

Hope this helps.

(I don't feel so cranky now! ;) )
 
I dont mind cleaning my guns. But when factory loads are cleaner than home made loads,I dont think that is right. Thanks for the info.
 
I dont mind cleaning my guns. But when factory loads are cleaner than home made loads,I dont think that is right. Thanks for the info.

I think reloaders use a more rarified standard of reference: Is the reload:

1. More ACCURATE; and/or

2. More ECONOMICAL

than factory ammo?

Achieving the second goal is easy; the first can be more of a challenge.

I never considered cleanliness a priority. That said, I won't use Unique because it's filthy and have switched to poly-coated bullets because they shoot cleaner.
 
I have been using Titegroup for most of pistol reloading. I have found this powder to be somewhat cleaner than others and it does give me decent groups. It works great with 147 grain cast bullets for shooting IDPA. Just my two cents worth.
 
Started using Bullseye Powder and it is very dirty. After 50 .38 spl rounds my M-66 was covered in powder smoke. What else can I use ?
Residue after firing is contributed by the bullet lube as much as by the powder. For the cleanest burning mild lead bullet loads in 38 Special you would have to use one of the moly lubed swageh bullets as manufactured by Speer, Hornady or Remington.
I think Bullsye is probably the most universal powder for pistol loads. I use quite a bit of it in 9mm with jacketed and plated bullets. Cleaner burning powders are WST and American Select. Titegroup burns very hot and produces more smoke than other powders I have tested.
 
For the cleanest burning mild lead bullet loads in 38 Special you would have to use one of the moly lubed swageh bullets as manufactured by Speer, Hornady or Remington.

I disagree. Moly-coating is generally for high-power rifle applications.

If you want a clean, lead PISTOL bullet, use a Poly-coated one, such as those made and sold by Precision. Google "black bullet" and see what you find. It WON'T be Speer, Hornady or Remington.
 
You didn't mention if you were using cast or swaged lead bullets, but if you are the powder may not be the cause of most of your fouling. If you are shooting lead bullets, they normally cause more fouling than jacketed bullets and changing powders will not comppletely eliminate that problem. No, Bullseye isn't a particularly clean burning powder, but is is an excellent handgun powder in light loads and has been used satisfactorily by generations of shooters.
 
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