K Frame trigger swap

[War_Eagle]

I am thinking about swapping the smooth trigger on my model 19, to a serrated style. Has anyone done this? The new trigger I have is bare, no spring, arm ect... How hard is it to remove all of this from the original trigger? Whats involved? Any photos would be greatly appreciated.

 

[gunblade]

I have done this...not too difficult at all. I bought a 67 with a grooved trigger. Didn't care for the grooves so I polished them out. Then I bought a 64 with a grooved trigger. I decided to put a grooved trigger back in the 67, and put the smooth trigger in the 64, so I swapped them out. Only issue I ran into was the hand...if I left the original hands in place on the triggers, the cylinder would bind on one of the guns...don't remember which. So I had to swap the hands out also and it worked out just fine. Since your trigger is already stripped, this should work fine for your gun also.

 

[War_Eagle]

I guess what I need to know is, how to remove the hand and put it on the new trigger? I can't figure out how the tension must be put back on the hand.

 

[cyberiad]

I've only put hand springs in new triggers and it's a bit difficult to describe. If you have an assembled trigger from another revolver it may help to look at it (but it can be hard to see). You'll have to put pressure on one leg of the hand spring while simultaneously pressing the hand in to the trigger.

I put the hand back in to a J-Frame trigger last night and was able to do it by laying the trigger face down on the bench and using a punch that just fit the slot to push on the leg of the spring while inserting the hand. I did a K-Frame hand while sitting at a table in a similar way. It may help to clamp the trigger in to a padded vice but I didn't try that since the 'table top' method worked ok.

When the hand is inserted you should be able to pull back on it (pulling it away from the face of the trigger) and find it's under tension to the point where it will move back in to position itself. In the correct position, the hand will be at a slight angle "forward."

If I recall correctly, I looked at a schematic on Brownells to try to visualize the orientation.

I'm not a gunsmith so there is probably a better way to do it.

 

[War_Eagle]

Thanks for the reply and info. The tip of the spring was actually broken not allowing it to catch the pin on the hand. I got a new spring and it went right together. The smith I got the spring from said they will snap if you bind them.