Knife cleaning advice

[tcook90]

Looking for some advice on cleaning this knife. It was my Dad's Schrade Uncle Henry, and it's around 25 years old. I don't see any rust, so that's good, but there's a lot of "gunk" in the lock mechanism and channel. And the bolsters have some kind of build-up.

I've seen some videos where guys just run the knife under the faucet with dish soap and a toothbrush, but somehow that doesn't seem right. I certainly wouldn't do that with my Shield, and a knife isn't that different than a handgun! Also, I don't know if the handles are real bone, and if water and soap would hurt them if they are.

Anyway, any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Texas Star]

The "stag" scales are a version of DuPont Delrin that Schrade called Staglon. (Their cheaper line, Old Timer, used Delrin made to resemble bone. Old Timer blades are not stainless. Uncle Henry blades are.)

Wipe off the handle and bolsters with a damp Kleenex or piece of towel paper and use a metal polish like Simichrome to polish the bolsters if needed. (And the blade, if needed.) I think you can just use a handheld Kleenex on this knife, judging from the pics. Kleenex is a mild abrasive and will polish the nickel silver bolsters. Your thumbnail will probably scrape off that residue.

Use pipe cleaners to get the insides. Bend the tip to the wire in the pipe cleaner so it won't scratch. Use Break-Free or similar gun oil to soften and get out the gunk in the joints. Then, routinely use an occasional drop of oil on the joint to lube. A wooden toothpick will help to get out the gunk. It won't scratch the knife.

You are correct about it being in the Uncle Henry line from Schrade. Uncle Henry referred to the late Henry Baer, a former Schrade president. The blade steel is probably 440A stainless. Schrade used a good heat treatment and these knives were excellent values.

I suggest buying a good Cordura pouch and wearing that large knife on your belt. Cordura will not tarnish the bolsters as leather may.

I imagine that this is a real Schrade knife, given its age? The new ones are Chinese copies. A company bought the Schrade name when the company failed and they manufacture in China. I think the real Uncle Henry knives are fine items that'll serve you well.

 

[shouldazagged]

With reasonable care that knife will outlive you by many years. I'm an Old Timer man myself, but the U.S.-made Uncle Henry knives are excellent tools. And you can't get new ones that aren't made in China and which look inferior to me.

 

[Rpg]

My pocket knife is a Camillis made in the 1930's

Wash your knife if necessary ( only if you've used it doing something that would suggest you should, like cutting food) then wipe with a t shirt with a drop of oil.

Nothing special is necessary.

 

[tcook90]

Advice and a history lesson!! Thank you. Am I correct that you mean Kleenex tissues? I never would have thought that. I kinda thought the Breakfree would work. And as far as the sheath, it is leather, and the knife has spent most of the last 5 years or so in there. After looking down inside the sheath, it's pretty dirty, too. (Any leather cleaning advice? )
USA is stamped on the base of the blade, as well as 127UH. Any idea what that means?

I also believe this knife will outlast me. I'm hoping to get it cleaned up and looking good for my son, when the time comes.

 

[Texas Star]

Advice and a history lesson!! Thank you. Am I correct that you mean Kleenex tissues? I never would have thought that. I kinda thought the Breakfree would work. And as far as the sheath, it is leather, and the knife has spent most of the last 5 years or so in there. After looking down inside the sheath, it's pretty dirty, too. (Any leather cleaning advice? )
USA is stamped on the base of the blade, as well as 127UH. Any idea what that means?

I also believe this knife will outlast me. I'm hoping to get it cleaned up and looking good for my son, when the time comes.

Yes, Kleenex means the ordinary facial tissue. Other brands will also work, of course.

127UH is the model number. "UH" designates the Uncle Henry line. I have two. I think one is 134UH, a small stockman's pattern. My other is the King Ranch stockman, about four inches closed. I think it's Model 885UH, but would have to get it out and check.

Just turn the sheath upside down and bang it on a piece of furniture to dislodge any lint, dirt, etc. A pipe cleaner or long screwdriver will get inside and get any remaining. Huff and puff and blow it out.

Wipe with a slightly damp cloth and polish with Kiwi or similar polish. If the leather is scuffed, use Fielding's or similar leather dye before polishing. This isn't rocket science. But a little attention to the leather will pay big dividends. Store the knife out of the leather. If you aren't going to carry it, an old sock will keep the knife from damage in a drawer.

 

[tcook90]

Thanks for all the info!

 

[30-30remchester]

I have been an antique knife collector for over 40 years now and have hundreds of old blades. I have cleaned over 300 of them in my youth. NOW I realize I ruined many of them in my zeal to have a shiny new looking knife. Cleaning is a necessity sometimes and a curse more often. TEXAS STARS advise is sound, though I get more aggressive cleaning the guts of a folder. The insides are usually many times dirtier than the outside. I use a small piece 3-000 steel wool and a small screwdriver to clean the innards. I avoid like the plague the polishing of a blade as this removes the knife's character. Just the other day I went against my own advise when I bought an old Case folder, circa 1904 to 1920. The knife appears to have never been sharpened but the blades were so rusty that the blade inscription could not ever been seen let alone read. After minimal cleaning its an impressive blade.

 

[Texas Star]

Bear in mind that my "advise" (should read "advice") was intended to restore to normal use modern knives without vast collector value.

Carefully polishing stains or scratches off the blade or bolsters of a modern stainless folder to improve the knife's looks for a daily use implement is not akin to shining an old rusty blade on a rare Case collectible from the 1920's.

I'd be a poor collector or investor. I like my guns and knives to look good and work well. I try to keep them looking as new as possible. I'm not one of these guys who'd buy an old M&P or .38-44 S&W that looks like someone with an ugly stick just ran through its barracks. (Any of you older guys with USAF service ever heard that line about the WAF barracks? )

If I bought a worn older gun it'd be to fully restore it to former glory (usually expensive beyond all reason) and then to use it with care, from a nice lined holster. I don't buy "user grade" or "truck guns." I view my knives the same way, and avoid old, rusty stuff.

That said, I'm glad that collectors do preserve these old relics and try to restore them as much as possible, within the guidelines of their hobby. They're important pieces of history and are wonderful from a nostalgia standpoint.

My tendency is to buy only reasonably modern knives that have stainless high carbon blades and which are in good shape. I did once return a used Buck Model 120 to the maker for refinishing. They did a great job, with fast turnaround.

But I normally buy new or as-new items and take care of them. And I carry my knives. I don't collect them in the technical sense of the term and store them in knife rolls, etc.
Some are fairly valuable, but I don't get them as investments. I get them because they're beautiful and suit my sense of style.

The OP's knife is not a rare or old collectible. It just needs some basic TLC to become an heirloom in that family or to be restored to normal use.

With these different philosophies in mind, both Remchester and I are correct in our advice. And I thank him for the bit about using steel wool to clean the rusty interiors of old pocketknives.

I just don't want to panic the owners of Uncle Henry knives into thinking that they're destroying a rare collectible by polishing scratches off the satin-finished stainless blade of a modern "using" knife.

BTW, I usually hone carefully on ceramic crock sticks, to avoid scratching blades while honing on a stone. If you never let the knife get really dull, this works well and avoids sharpening away the blade in repeated honings over the years. I've seen pics of blades on this board that were severely worn as a result of over sharpening.

 

[Comrad]

I've run my CaseXX under the faucet with a little dish detergent and a toothbrush. Follow up with a little WD40, what it was actually invented for, water displacement. The knife gets shined in my pocket.

 

[Texas Star]

I've run my CaseXX under the faucet with a little dish detergent and a toothbrush. Follow up with a little WD40, what it was actually invented for, water displacement. The knife gets shined in my pocket.

A good point, esp. about the correct use of WD-40 as a water displacement. Too many think it's oil.

Leaving the knife on a patio for a couple or three hours in the summer sun or using a hair dryer will also dry it out after washing, but I'd sure use a real lubricating and preservative oil in the joints and on the blade. Don't forget to oil the interior. (Use a pipe cleaner.) Let the knife sit overnight and wipe off any excess oil. I use Break-Free CLP. DON'T put the knife in an oven to dry it.

If your knife is exposed to salt water or spray, SCRUB it under fresh water. Don't just rinse it. Salt residue will stick to the blade if you don't use your fingers, a toothbrush, or a sponge to scrub it. My son learned this trick while diving in the ocean. His was the only knife among several of his friends that didn't rust. He also oiled his blade, which many sloppy divers don't do.

 

[tcook90]

Again, very good information. I'm hoping to spend some time this weekend cleaning it up, with pics to follow.

I'm with Texas Star on the collecting aspect. I REALLY want a 5" 610, and have come across a few in the $1200 to $1500 range, but there's no way I'm not gonna shoot it. And that's a lot of coin for a shooter.

As far as this knife, it'll definitely fall into the "use it" category. Not that it's rare or collectible; just a nice piece that was my Dad's, and will one day be my son's.

 

[Richard Simmons]

FWIW, I also wash my folders under the faucet. For knives that I may use for food prep, cutting an apple, etc., I use mineral oil on the pivots.

 

[tcook90]

Well, I finally got around to cleaning it up. Polished the bolsters and blade, but there were some scratches that wouldn't come out (character!). I'm happy with it!

Crappy cell phone pics, it actually looks better in person.

 

[Rangerpat]

Nice knife, good job cleaning it up... if you're happy, that's what counts!

 

[shouldazagged]

Looks good, and you'll find it's an excellent working knife.