Lacquer Stock Refinishing

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I decided to refinish a set of combat stocks that I had previously done with polyurethane. Since I was gong to apply a factory correct lacquer finish, I had to remove the urethane. This was a refinish I did a couple years ago so it was completely cured and was a bear to get off. But once I did, I had a set of goncalo stocks ready for a new finish. The wood is very dark goncalo, just luck of the draw and original to the gun so they are keepers.

Starting with the prepped stocks, I started hitting them with light coats of Proluxe (formerly Deft) semi-gloss lacquer. Lacquer is correct for combat stocks and is just easy to use and very quick. Because of the carriers in lacquer it does not require sanding between coats like urethane and is pretty much run-free unless you go overboard. Lacquer with literally melt or soften the material applied previously to provide adhesion, but dries quickly as the carriers evaporate. Over a period of about 45 minutes I applied about 10 coats, usually about three at a time and yet when I went to apply the next round, the lacquer was already dry to the touch. The more coats, the slower the drying time as the underlying coats also soften.

Attached images show the progression. I could have waited a bit longer between coats and sanded the finish to fill any grain, pores or defects and obtain a smoother finish but I chose not to. I will likely do this at some point or just buff with a scoth-brite pad & wax. Regardless you can be done with the application of the finish in well under a day or in this case just about one hour.

Factory original (like), quick and easy.



Stripped of all finish:
IMG_1876.webp

Wet with acetone shows the approximate finished color:
IMG_1878.webp

Five light coats of lacquer:
IMG_1884.webp

15 minutes later, dry to the touch
IMG_1888.webp

Three more light coats:
IMG_1889.webp

You can see how the new coat softens the previous coats
IMG_1890.webp

Flashlight can insure coverage or highlight defects:
IMG_1894.webp

Under one hour, 10+ coats and dry to the touch:
IMG_1896.webp
 
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You did a nice job of recreating the factory finish. Just curious, did you use 0000 steel wool between coats? Personally, I'm not a big fan of the lacquer finish so whenever I have to refinish revolver stocks I usually apply multiple coats of Formby's Low Gloss Tung Oil Finish since I prefer a more matte finish. But that's just me. Enjoy!
 
No need to do anything between coats, that is the point unless you want to smooth as you go. Oil, matte is all fine but doesn't replicate original. I keep the factory stocks original in appearance. I don't care for them for shooting anyway.
 
I used to use the Tru Oil method, but a few years ago switched to spray lacquer. Have done semi and gloss. If I need to do something between coats, use wet or dry 400, or 800 grit. (just sure surfaces are dry before proceeding. Bob
 
Am I following correctly that lacquer is aerosol can ?
Yes it is rattle or spray can. This is the only brand I can find locally but works great. I have never tried to brush lacquer from a can but I would think it would be difficult, but I believe they include some drying inhibitors to allow time to brush without it drying. think of lacquer as spray acetone. The carrier dries and leaves the surface finish.

To be clear it is not my favorite finish but it is what the S&W used during the 70's and 80's and is quick and easy.


Unfinished:
IMG_1881.webp
 
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Thank you for this detailed tutorial of the use of lacquer. I recall that my uncle used Deft spray (~Bartop) lacquer in the late 1950s or early 1960s. The results were uniformly good.

Due to production time requirements, it is totally understandable that many commercial producers used spray lacquer rather than the much slower-to-dry oil/varnish finishes, polymerized or not.
As well, air quality and potential toxicity of large volumes of carriers was then rather less important than speed. (Cough😂)
 
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