messerist
Member
Does anyone know of a good technique for cleaning off the cylinder face after shooting. Mine is a blued Model 27. Any tips will be greatly appreciated.
lead build up on cylinder face
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Kelly Green
Member
Hoppes #9 and a good stiff nylon brush.
ronnie gore
Member
lead
if i get a heavy build up i use one of the bronze brushes from brownell's with solvent, just a gentile scrubbing will remove all the lead. it won't hurt the finish.
if i get a heavy build up i use one of the bronze brushes from brownell's with solvent, just a gentile scrubbing will remove all the lead. it won't hurt the finish.
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CYLINDER FACE LEAD REMOVAL
On blued guns you need to be more careful removing lead than on stainless of course. Anything that removes lead efficiently will also eventually remove the bluing so be careful.
A bronze brush with a good solvent works somewhat, but the thing I find that works the best without too much abrasiveness is a good old red pencil eraser. When you use the eraser, make sure the face of the cylinder is free from lubricant or solvent or they will cancel out the usefulness of the eraser. After removing the leading, MAKE SURE you get all the tiny eraser particles out of the chambers and ejector rod opening. I do this procedure with the cylinder removed from he gun as it makes things a lot easier. Do not abuse this procedure on blued guns as the eraser is still an abrasive of sorts.
On my carry guns I like to get all the leading off to keep it nice & clean, but on revolvers that get shot weekly, I just give the face of the cylinder a scrubbing with some solvent and an old toothbrush. If I am mad at my wife that day, I might use her toothbrush (lol). I see no sense of getting every last bit of leading off a "shooter" just to lead it up next week. The toothbrush and solvent get the heavy duty stuff off so there is never an issue with lead build up.
For really bad leading on stainless guns ONLY, you can step up to one of those white ink erasers that you find with the nylon brush on the back (looks like a pencil). They work even better than the red erasers, but I would restrict this type to stainless guns only, as they will remove bluing faster than the red kind (more abrasive). Hope this is helpful.
Regards,
chief38
On blued guns you need to be more careful removing lead than on stainless of course. Anything that removes lead efficiently will also eventually remove the bluing so be careful.
A bronze brush with a good solvent works somewhat, but the thing I find that works the best without too much abrasiveness is a good old red pencil eraser. When you use the eraser, make sure the face of the cylinder is free from lubricant or solvent or they will cancel out the usefulness of the eraser. After removing the leading, MAKE SURE you get all the tiny eraser particles out of the chambers and ejector rod opening. I do this procedure with the cylinder removed from he gun as it makes things a lot easier. Do not abuse this procedure on blued guns as the eraser is still an abrasive of sorts.
On my carry guns I like to get all the leading off to keep it nice & clean, but on revolvers that get shot weekly, I just give the face of the cylinder a scrubbing with some solvent and an old toothbrush. If I am mad at my wife that day, I might use her toothbrush (lol). I see no sense of getting every last bit of leading off a "shooter" just to lead it up next week. The toothbrush and solvent get the heavy duty stuff off so there is never an issue with lead build up.
For really bad leading on stainless guns ONLY, you can step up to one of those white ink erasers that you find with the nylon brush on the back (looks like a pencil). They work even better than the red erasers, but I would restrict this type to stainless guns only, as they will remove bluing faster than the red kind (more abrasive). Hope this is helpful.
Regards,
chief38
