Lead vapor???

BillBro

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I bought the 586 because I remember seeing one at 13 years old and just thinking it was the coolest looking gun Id ever seen. It took me 43years to get my own and I hate shooting it. I hate shooting it because I tend to shoot cast boolits and wont change apparently but when I shoot it the front of the cylinder is silver with what looks like lead bapor deposited on it. It has the perfect circles around the chambers thats quite distinct and then between those is the silver/grey "film" look and I cant get rid of either.
Being rather obsessive about cleaning my revolvers this just aggravates me to no end. Do any of you guys know how to remove this or do I just have to freakin have to get my brain over this? I dont mind at all having to work to remove it, its not that. I want it gone without removing the blue from the front of the cylinder. Cant use lead away cloth on a blued gun.
Petty I know.
 
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You get boolit bapor on the front of your cylinder, you have broblems. lol

Nice gun. I love 5/686s. Shoot a few jacket bUllets before you put that nice old Smith away. Get over your OCD self.

You really should post pictures.
 
Lead starts vaporizing at 752 deg F. That happens like when you melt lead to make your own bullets. If you are indeed vaporizing that much lead, you should be using a HEPA respirator when you are shooting, or you are going to end up like the Mad Hatter.

Others will chime in, but I think what you have is melted lead deposit from shooting soft lead bullets. Of course, small TRACES of lead gas are released when that happens. That's why you shoot shoot in a range that it's well ventilated.

Lead removing techniques that won't hurt the gun's blueing are available, but you need to evaluate why you are getting so much lead build-up with that ammo; like not adding enough antimony to harden the lead.
 
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ETA - after rereading it could be lead. Are you casting your own? Are they very soft?

Also, I’m a big fan of coated hard cast versus lubed lead. Basically eliminates leading in the barrel as well as keeping the smoke from the lube away.

I honestly don’t shoot many jacketed bullets through my revolvers. 99% of my reloads are the aforementioned hard cast coated.

Also, here’s my 4” 586 ND with a few extras at the range:

21WwV1j.jpeg
 
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The "lead vapor point" (its boiling point) is 3180°F. There is no way any sane bullet caster or shooter is going to be achieving this kind of temperature. I iffing hate internet BS.

The hazard of melting lead, besides burns, are due to the miscellaneous material such as rubber, oil, plastic, paint, glue, etc, and other foreign material that is mixed in with scrap lead. You can safely hold your head over a clean molten pot of lead for 50 years and never inhale any lead vapor, as long as you keep it under 3180°F.
 
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Has anybody tried this....

I don't mind cleaning guns, but the front of the cylinder can be TOUGH to clean. Would putting a thin coat of grease on the cylinder before shooting it make it easier to clean afterward?

What I do now is use a compound for cleaning burned stuff off of copper cooking wear. I have a 686 so it doesn't harm the finish but I suppose it would be rough on bluing. I think I'd try the 'grease before shooting' idea.


Oh, BTW. I shoot coated bullets so I don't get lead deposits, but I think the grease idea would help there as well.
 
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It would probably make it easier to clean but I would think it would be messy. The front of the cylinder does get hot when you shoot. Then you would have grease all over. I would GUESS you would be swapping one mess for another.
 
The "lead vapor point" (its boiling point) is 3180°F. There is no way any sane bullet caster or shooter is going to be achieve this kind of temperature. I iffing hate internet BS.

The hazard of melting lead, besides burns, are due to the miscellaneous material such as rubber, oil, plastic, paint, glue, etc, and other foreign material that is mixed in with scrap lead. You can safely hold your head over a clean molten pot of lead for 50 years and never inhale any lead vapor, as long as you keep it under 3180°F.

This!!!!!!
Just like water melts a 33 degrees but boils at 212.
Boiling point is much higher than melting point.
I believe the NRA did a study on increased lead levels from casting and found no appreciable difference in lead levels as long as good safety measures, like washing hands before eating, were followed.
 
You might want to consider buying some of those hy-tek coated cast lead bullets for reloading. The powder coating acts much like a jacket and prevents leading and since there is no bullet lube required, there is no vaporized bullet lube to be deposited on your revolver.
 
The "lead vapor point" (its boiling point) is 3180°F. There is no way any sane bullet caster or shooter is going to be achieve this kind of temperature. I iffing hate internet BS.

The hazard of melting lead, besides burns, are due to the miscellaneous material such as rubber, oil, plastic, paint, glue, etc, and other foreign material that is mixed in with scrap lead. You can safely hold your head over a clean molten pot of lead for 50 years and never inhale any lead vapor, as long as you keep it under 3180°F.

Exactly. If lead was vaporizing, all of the jacketed bullets that have exposed base would have the same problem. Dang near all "FMJ" bullets have exposed lead on the base. Even the 55 grain FMJ boat tail used in the .223/5.56 cartridge. FMJ not to be confused with plated bullets which are completely covered.

The smoke from cast boolits is the lube burning off and sometimes gun powder burning.

Rosewood
 
I scrub it off with a combunation of Ed's Red Bore Solvent , J-B Bore Cleaning paste (or any mild abrasive cleaning paste) on a wad of 0000 steel wool ... give a good scrubbing .
What metal that is Heat Colored by the fired rounds ...
I learned to Love !
The heat coloring is deep in the metal ... Not on the surfacer and does not come off . Think of it as heat bluing or a revolver Tattoo !
Gary
 
Rings of Power

Good question to ask before you ruin something.

A lot of good advice here also. You came to the
right place.

My suggestion; when confronted with “Revolver
Front Cylinder Dis-color Rings” by new Enthusiasts
is, just wipe the front off with Oil or safe for bluing
solvent. To try to scrub the Rings off may damage
or scratch up the cylinder.

Also I tell new Enthusiasts more damage is done
worrying how clean the Gun is, using improper
tools, and O.C.D. cleaning.

The Best to you and your Endeavors.
 
Clean the front of the cylinder with solvent and a nylon tooth brush. What doesn't come off should be left alone.

There has been a lot of very bad advice given in this thread.

Yes, best advice.

Hurts nothing and will do the same next time you shoot it. I also use a toothbrush with solvent on the cylinder face. That will remove any loose particles, etc. The remaining stain is left alone. No need to obsess.
 
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Ill just post up a few pics tomorrow a d yall cant analize from there. Its the o ly way I know how to describe the effect, don't know and Im not saying thats whats happening and most likely isnt it appears. Does nobody else ever get any lead outside of the bore or chamber? Anywhere? On a blued revolver?
It doesnt shave bullets that I've ever felt and nobody beside me has ever grabbed their eye or screened their face and I hardly get any leading in the bore and chambers at all, even after a few hundred rounds, theyre just about all I shoot anymore actually, especially in revolvers.
 

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