Lee die help please.

[peppercorn]

I recently started loading 38S&W and purchsed, along with bullets and brass for this caliber, a set of Lee dies from Midway.
I am actually having two problems with the dies.

The first problem is in the second station, powder drop and 'belling' , if that is proper verbage, the case.
When I lower the press the case 'sticks' in the die and sort of breaks free with a 'bang'. Each and every case does this and, I should note, all the brass is 'new'.

The second problem is in the seat/crimp station.
Once I set the seating depth to the correct COL and hand tighten the locknut as per instructions I then turn the very top screw that is supposed to apply the crimp and this is where the problem therein lies.

The net result is that the bullet just ends up deeper in the case. In addition to this there is absolutely no crimp applied in the process.

Any and all input would be appreciated.

 

[TwoPoundPull]

Maybe too much flair with the powder drop.....
The seating depth is adjusted by the screw......
The crimp is adjusted by the die height......
Might consider a Lee Factory Crimp Die.....
Seat the bullet, then crimp it.....

Post Script: Lee Precision has help Video's on their site.

 

[peppercorn]

Thanks TwoPound',
It sounds like I reversed the instruction. I will try that procedure and see how it goes.
As far as the bell goes I have just enough to start my lubed bullet so I am not sure where to go with this. It isn't enough to halt the process but it is something that I haven't run into with other die sets.

 

[Roundsworth]

All of my Lee expanding dies do that. The actual piece that does the flaring floats inside the die and is quite rough if you take a close look at it. Cases will hang up, just a bit, because of this roughness. I imagine that the omission of the finer grades of polishing is one way for Lee to keep the cost down.

 

[Rule3]

The flaring powder die is supposed to hang up a little bit. This shakes the powder drop so all the powder falls.

By turning the whole die in controls the crimp. The top adjusting knob only controls the seating depth

The seating and crimping die will "seat" the bullet an extra .055" when set to crimp. You need to allow for this. In other words set your OAL to .055 more than what you want. When the bullet is seated and crimped it will end up at the correct length.

The dies are working as they were designed. If you have the LEE manual it is explained on page #75 and are much better than the instructions that come with the dies.

 

[Federalis]

And if you need to, call the Lee Cust Service number... I have dealt with them on the phone several times and they are always excellent to deal with... my 2 cents worth, TW

 

[jag22]

I experience the same thing with my 38 special Lee expander die. Don't care for it whether Lee intended it or not. I recently had to replace a part of my press because of it. Next time I'm buying something from Midway I will replace it, probably with a Redding.
On your second problem, follow what rule3 said. He has it right.

 

[BW64]

One thing I found is that with lead bullets I chamfer the case mouth slightly. Helps that baby slide right in there & allows for less belling on the powder through die.


BW

 

[peppercorn]

One thing I found is that with lead bullets I chamfer the case mouth slightly. Helps that baby slide right in there & allows for less belling on the powder through die.


BW

What do you 'chamfer' the edge with?

 

[David LaPell]

A case deburring tool has always done the trick of chamfering the case, just don't over do it. I use Lee dies almost exclusively but what I found is that you don't need the case flared out much to get the bullet in, just enough where you can run your finger over it and feel a difference or you can see it slightly. Having the mouth of the case looking like the barrel end of a blunderbuss will give you nothing but trouble.

The other thing, are you loading .38 S & W or .38 Special? If you are loading .38 S & W which has a bore diameter of .361 with .358 bullets you may need to use even less of a taper so that your bullet isn't just sliding around. I do recommend getting a Lee Crimp die.

 

[peppercorn]

Good info.
I have only loaded pistol calibers to this point and do not have a deburing tool. I will get one as I am currently only loading lead in 38spcl, 357, 44 and 38 S&W. I found that when I switched form plated bullets to lead that I needed more bell due to the fact that the lube was being scraped up in the seating process, making a huge mess of the dies and the cases. A bit more bell eliminated this.
The case in point is 38 S&W I am loading for an 1877 top break using pyrodex. The bullets are .361, 146gr. magtech.

 

[Rule3]

What do you 'chamfer' the edge with?

Chamfer Deburring Tool

Modern Reloading 2nd Edition Revised Reloading Manual

WIDRTI

 

[firecracker6]

You've already gotten a good answer for the seating die. As far as the resistance w/ the flare die, you might try lubing your cases. It doesn't take much. I lube mine by putting a 150 or so in a quart size ziploc and spraying the cases w/ a little hornady one shot --a couple of squirts is enough. I then close the bag and jumble the cases around. I doubt it eliminates all your problem w/ the flaring die but it'll probably help.

 

[shovelwrench]

I notice that with NEW brass, it will stick in the expander like you describe. Once fired brass I have never had a problem with....

You can take the expander plug out and rub just a little case lube on it, this usually helps till you get through the new brass.

 

[fredj338]

It's because the brass is new, has a lot of friction w/ the belling die. Chamfering helps, but it's just gonna happen. Lubing the brass mouth is one option so is removing the belling stem & coating it w/ moly or spray graphite.

 

[oberon]

All those little Lee gadgets are very good. the de-burring thing, the primer pocket cleaner, the case trimmer/pilot & stud. I even have one of the old style hand priming tools (the one with the 'real' threaded shell holder) that I bought in, like 1972. Works great.
I use Lee dies for some of my stuff, no problem.

 

[KLNC]

As others have said, the Lee expander die is designed to do what you've experienced, apparently to shake the powder if you use it with a powder drop attached. Personally, I find it very annoying, and usually end up replacing that die with a Lyman M die. Others probably aren't bothered by it. In any case, that's just the way it works.