Lee Factory Crimp Die for 44mag

[PeterK]

Im setting up my dies to load some 44 mag loads at the upper level, and the directions say to turn the crimp die in one full turn for a heavy crimp. Is that what you guys usually do for a heavy crimp? Im shooting 200 grain Nosler JHP under a charge of 2400. I appreciate the help!

 

[mikld]

FWIW; My Lee FCD for .44 Magnums lives in a landfill somewhere in Southern Oregon. I purchased one out of curiosity although I heard/read very little good about them. I ruined about 20 perfectly sized cast 250 gr. SWC rounds, and experienced barrel leading/poor accuracy the first time I tied it. I knocked out the carbide ring but the resulting crimp was uneven and rough. For the occasional jacketed bullets I reloaded, the FCD did noting except apply an average/poor crimp. There are many reloaders that like them but in my thinking/experience, learning how to adjust the dies properly so no bulges occur is a much better approach. I have reloaded many thousands of .44 Magnum rounds (started in '86) and never had a need to "post bullet seat resize" any rounds. A plain old roll crimp works quite well. (I have also reloaded many thousand 9mm and 45 ACP rounds, cast and jacketed, quite successfully without the use of a "post seating sizing die")...

I'd suggest a normal roll crimp die and adjust it in increments to achieve a crimp similar to factory ammo, without relying on "turns of crimp". It's OK to experiment as crimping can either be too light and bullets will slip during recoil or too hard and buckle the cases, but there is a lot of room in between too light and too heavy. I have found a Redding Profile Crimp die to work exceptionally well on my .44s...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...

BTW; not a Lee Hater, just think a new reloader is better off without an FCD..

 

[427mach1]

I use the Lee FCD for several calibers and have had good luck with them. I don't like the idea of the crimp being applied as the bullet is still moving down in the seating operation. In my opinion, this could result in some shearing of the copper jacket, so I choose to perform the seating and crimping separately.

I follow the instructions just as you have. That looks like a good crimp to me.

 

[Rule3]

Im setting up my dies to load some 44 mag loads at the upper level, and the directions say to turn the crimp die in one full turn for a heavy crimp. Is that what you guys usually do for a heavy crimp? Im shooting 200 grain Nosler JHP under a charge of 2400. I appreciate the help!

Yes. somewhere around 3/4 to 1 full turn from when the top adjustment stops, is usually a heavy crimp You may even be a little to heavy for a jacketed bullet. See how it is starting to bulge under the crimp?.
As long as the case mouth is curled into the crimp groove or cannelure. It will go in further on a lead bullets

Start at 1/2 turn and slowly start turning it in and checking you will see and geel when it is right. Mark your dies with a sharpie on the knpb and the die and yoi will be able to determine how much you have turned it.

Hard to tell for sure with just the one picture and angle.

 

[Ballistic147]

I've never tried the FCD. My 44 Mag dies are Hornady and it's one die that does seating and crimping. First thing, I trim all cases so they are all the same length. I do this with 38 Special and 357 Mag too. From there adjust the seating depth with no crimp. Once that's dialed in I then adjust the crimp portion of the die. Real easy and they come out very consistent.

 

[DumpStick]

Well, that certainly qualifies, to my eyes, as a heavy crimp.

I started reloading in the late 1980's, and have used Lee dies heavily since then. I've gotten good results from them.

That being said, I think the Lee FCD is a solution in search of a problem. I have never had problems using the roll-crimp, or taper-crimp, that comes in the 3 die set.

However, it's your ammo, your reloading bench, and your firearms. Do it your way.

 

[muddocktor]

When I was using my 44 FCD I usually crimped at about 3/4 turn and they worked well. But the issue I have with the 44 FCD was (to me) unacceptable drag going through the carbide sizing ring with some cases. The worst are some old 80's vintage Winchester brass. I've since bought the Redding profile crimp die, which I find does a better job and since it doesn't have that stupid sizing ring, doesn't try to resize my lead bullets through the brass. And neither my 629 nor my Browning B92 rifle have any problems feeding my reloads crimped with the Redding die.

 

[Jackcpat]

Lee FCD

I use the Lee FCD on .357 and have never had an issue. I would use it on my .41 if I could find one, using a RCBS bullet seat and crimp die for them. Using the bullet seat die to crimp can be a little tricky when wanting a heavy crimp, you have to watch bulging the case.

 

[mtgianni]

If you are only shooting jacket it won't hurt anything.

 

[Vortec MAX]

Firm contact + 5/8 turn works well. You can use 1/2 turn on lighter loads. I usually do not go more than 3/4 turn.

Mike

 

[BC38]

I use the Lee FCD for several calibers and have had good luck with them. I don't like the idea of the crimp being applied as the bullet is still moving down in the seating operation. In my opinion, this could result in some shearing of the copper jacket, so I choose to perform the seating and crimping separately.

I follow the instructions just as you have. That looks like a good crimp to me.

Ditto.

I started with making contact and then turning it a half turn then tried it. Wanted a little more crimp than that gave so I adjusted it 1/8 turn more and ran it through again. Just right!

It's easy to start a little light on the crimp and keep adjusting and re-crimping until you get just the crimp you want....

 

[Rule3]

Without having the exact same bullet, seated to the exact same depth, there is no no way to determine how far you should turn the adjustment knob which will determine how much crimp is applied..

It is all based from when the adjustment knob first touches the top of the seated bullet.

 

[Wise_A]

Agreed. I do it by feel and by eye more than anything else. I think yours might be a tad heavy, but it's hard to tell without having handled the bullet beforehand, and the cartridge after.

I do think that most people over-crimp.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Looking at your picture, my "fly's eye" sees more crimp than I think should be needed typically. The crimped case looks flat to the cannelure. For me, that's definitely a heavy crimp.

If you have good bullet-case tension a firm roll crimp should suffice. And a roll crimp should look exactly like that, a rolled/rounded case mouth, not flat. I like to use a jeweler's loupe to get a clearer look at mine.

Heavy crimps will shorten your case life too due to splitting. Unless you have a jump crimp issue I'd suggest backing off a tad, as a matter of course.

I agree with BC38. Don't focus on a predetermined turn amount. Also, different cannelures will require more, or less, adjustment to get the crimp you want. Some are very deep & wide while others are shallow & thin.

.

 

[twodog max]

I don't use Lee Dies many do but I never saw the need. The photo looks much heavier than I ever use and I have not had any problems with bullets moving from recoil. I do not trim pistol brass. Never have and after 50 years don't plan on starting. I load 45/70 heavy for lever gun use and don't crimp those that heavy either and I have had zero problems with those.

 

[PeterK]

Thanks for all of the input guys, I appreciate it. I backed the crimp off a little bit and will be heading to the range later today thanks to a snow day at work!

 

[revolver_ph]

I prefer a taper crimp die for pistol cases.

The rifle bottle neck case Lee FCDs are a collet type and are very good.

The Lee pistol FCD has a carbide ring at the base of the die that sizes the entire case -- bad juju for cast bullet loads as it will swage down the bullet diameter likely resulting in leading.

I realize the OP is loading jacketed bullets but why have a die that will be problems if one switches to cast bullets in the future?

 

[gwpercle]

You don't "need" the Lee FCD , the standard crimp die that comes with every set will work just fine. I even use them to seat and crimp in two separate steps . It's all in adjusting the dies properly.
Gary

 

[Scrumbag]

Yes. somewhere around 3/4 to 1 full turn from when the top adjustment stops, is usually a heavy crimp You may even be a little to heavy for a jacketed bullet. See how it is starting to bulge under the crimp?.
As long as the case mouth is curled into the crimp groove or cannelure. It will go in further on a lead bullets

Start at 1/2 turn and slowly start turning it in and checking you will see and geel when it is right. Mark your dies with a sharpie on the knpb and the die and yoi will be able to determine how much you have turned it.

Hard to tell for sure with just the one picture and angle.

Very interesting. What sort of increment do you reckon you should work up in? 45 degrees or something less?

 

[BC38]