lock removal

sixshooter_45

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Does anyone know if I can remove the entire lock assembly in my S&W 629 classic without any adverse functioning or abnormal wear?

Thanks in advance for any input.
 
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It is possible, I dont know you well enough to answer the part about if you can do it.
 
I was unaware of "The Plug". Not that I am in any hurry to pull locks out of newer guns but it's nice to know one can do it/have it done, and NOT leave a big hole.

***GRJ***
 
You could just remove the "flag" part of the locking system. This would remove the part that could possibly malfunction and lock up the gun. And leave in the key part of the lock. Then, there would be no hole to fill.
 
I did that to one of my revolvers with the blasted IL...I still wasn't happy with that little eye peeping at me...I had some concern that if somebody with kids inherited it and thought the lock would make it safe around the kids...Yes, I know one shouldn'd depend on that but not all of my possible heirs are smart or know much about firearms...So, I fixed the problem by trading it to someone for a vintage, before lock(B L) revolver ...No lock, no hole and no plug...7
 
I did that to one of my revolvers with the blasted IL...I still wasn't happy with that little eye peeping at me...I had some concern that if somebody with kids inherited it and thought the lock would make it safe around the kids...Yes, I know one shouldn'd depend on that but not all of my possible heirs are smart or know much about firearms...So, I fixed the problem by trading it to someone for a vintage, before lock(B L) revolver ...No lock, no hole and no plug...7
That is clearly the best solution, but kind of hard to do with a 325. Thus, THE PLUG.
 
I had a 325 PD and I did remove the flag...There was no "plug" at that time...I wont pass up one I really like just because of the IL...
 
I don't have any I/L guns and would not buy one - but another solution (if you already have one and want to keep it) would be to remove the I/L, tap the hole and install a flush fitting screw so it looked like it belonged there. Make sure the screw does not go in past the inside of the frame. This way there are no parts to fall into the gun from recoil, fatigue, etc. This method does require the proper tools and mechanical skills, but IMHO is the best way to deal with the I/L.
 
My 642 locked up at the range when it was fairly new. I went home popped on You Tube and said good by. The last thing any one needs to worry about is a revolver failure.

And you heard it here they do fail! its not a internet rumor.
 
Does anyone know if I can remove the entire lock assembly in my S&W 629 classic without any adverse functioning or abnormal wear?

Thanks in advance for any input.

You can remove the entire lock, and many years ago, an S&W employee told me directly that, while he could not advise removal of the lock, the employee said that was the way to go if I were inclined to remove any portion of the locking mechanism. Thus, if you want to remove it, remove ALL of it, including the little pitch fork and spring.

With all due respect for the makers of devices for filling the hole after the lock removal, when I asked about such devices, the same S&W employee (a performance center gunsmith) said that the little parts left in the gun can become dislodged and tie up the revolver.

I suppose this point can be debated over and over by people who do not work at S&W, but I always thought that the best procedure was to remove the lock in its entirety based upon the aforementioned advice. There is no point in removing some tiny parts that can lock up your revolver, only to replace them some tiny parts that can lock up your revolver.

In addition, removal of the entire lock leaves a really nifty "oil application port" into which a single drop of Break Free can be inserted once every few years. :)
 
I have two lock revolvers. The 627 was the first to be de-locked. I removed every piece of the lock and now have a hole. I can deal with it and I know that there is nothing left to accidentally engage. This is a good solution for a holster gun.

The second is a 340PD. Being a pocket gun, I did not want a hole that can catch lint from a pocket. I also did not want to remove only the flag, as it is possible that the rest of the lock assembly can work itself inward and tie up the action. I ground the little nub off the flag and then reinstalled it. This way the lock can not engage or work itself deeper into the mechanism. There is no gaping hole that can catch the lint and the lock is still totally disabled.

Dave Sinko
 
Another solution is to remove the IL and then fill the remaining hole with silver or black silicone glue.

Even if the glue should come out, it will not lock up the gun. There are no permanent modifications to the gun, and it can easily be brought back to OEM specs if desired.
 
Thanks for all the input.

I'll take it apart and determine what I believe is the best route to take.

I'm leaning towards removing all of it except where the key fits but may have to ascertain whether or not it needs to be locktighted in to keep it from interfering with the function of the revolver.
 
I'd rather not have any part of that infernal device left on the gun.
IMG_4622_zps95f5afde.jpg

That "L" and arrow are still an eyesore.
 
I have 5 IL S&W's, methods of dealing with the lock:

Australian police trade in 66-7 4" - The Aussies ground the nub off the flag, rendering the lock inop. Thank You Australian police for doing this:)

10-14- removed all of it and installed the plug.

Other 10-14- left the lock in

64-8- left lock in
64-7- left lock in

FWIW I work in corrections and we use 64-8's and 65-4's. After nearly a decade in service, very rough use, and many rounds I have never heard of a 64-8 having a lock failure. I qualified with a 64-8 this summer. These guns take a beating and lots of neglect and keep on ticking. The 10 or so 64-8's that are used just for range quals have had the strain screw backed out and rebound springs clipped. The ones used "on duty" are not altered.
 

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