M&P sear deactivation lever

patchdoc

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Question: Can you damage your pistol by NOT first lowering the sear deactivation lever when field stripping for cleaning?
 
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Don't know how it would damage pistol, but, why not just push it down with yer finger and not worry about it. After assembly of pistol, inserting an empty magazine pushes it back up.
 
The problem with using the sear deactivation lever is that some push it too far and override the stop. I saw a couple of those issues brought into the shop for repair. The deactivation lever just allows you to disassemble the pistol without having to pull the trigger. There is no harm done, if you choose to disassemble the pistol using the trigger to release the sear SO LONG AS YOU MAKE ABSOLUTELY 100% SURE THE WEAPON IS UNLOADED & POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION WHEN YOU PULL THE TRIGGER ala Glock.
 
The sear deactivation lever is there because when S&W did focus groups on what features a service pistol ought to have, not having a disassembly instruction to pull the trigger was at the top of the list.
 
...focus group....
the mob is not often a good authority to rely on.


my Shield has sear. as I researched "what the . . ." I came to two conclusions:


#1 - anyone working on, or cleaning, or field stripping a weapon who is not competent and able to clear the weapon, should not handle a weapon.


#2 - anyone who pulls the weapon's trigger with the gun pointed in a unsafe manor, should not handle a weapon.


basically we're getting to the point the politicians will make laws prohibiting firearms from firing projectiles . . . "just to be safe"
 
they did that because at the time they designed those things, law enforcement was a major customer for them(not recently though since they went woke, fbi, irs, atf etc attacking citizens), and that was one of the things they wanted to have. the stories of police officers accidentally discharging while cleaning their guns was a common element at that time.
 
Question: Can you damage your pistol by NOT first lowering the sear deactivation lever when field stripping for cleaning?

No, you won't hurt anything, you just have to pull the trigger to disengage the sear to get the slide off, but that's the same thing that happens every time you fire the thing.

I have heard many theories on why the lever is a part of the design, where the one I tend to believe but have no hard evidence of being true, is the feature of being able to strip the gun down without having to pull the trigger is something the decision makers liked during various trials and selections over the years even though it was never a requirement, leading to many manufacturers adding it.
 
Since it isn't detrimental to the function of the pistol in anyway, I think it's a good option that leaves the choice of its use to the operator.
What's kind of funny is that S&W borrowed the idea from the Ruger SR series.
I use it since it's in my pistol, and I never complained about the decocker button on the top of the slide of the Canik TP9sa. Gone now but I used it for disassembly, and found it convenient at the range if shooting was interrupted and I needed to holster the pistol. And that was a bit more of a functional issue since decocking a TP9sa gives you a dead trigger that has to be reset before firing the round in the chamber.
I could actually reach the lever in the SR9/45 a little easier, but it took a bit more force to lower it. With the Mod 2C, I just use a "decocked" pen with light pressure and it seems pretty simple to do.
Is it overkill? Maybe, since you have to retract the slide to get to it anyway.
 
This topic has been discussed a number of times on the Forum. Pushing down the sear deactivation lever absolutely precludes any possibility of a negligent discharge, so I assume that's why S&W designed it that way. Nevertheless, some M&P owners like to use the tried-and-true Glock method of releasing the slide by pulling the trigger instead of using the lever. That saves a whole five seconds of time while field stripping, but if that five seconds is important, then pulling the trigger is the way to go.

As to pushing the deactivation lever down too far and breaking it, that's pretty hard to do. Anyone that klutzy probably should not own an M&P, or any firearm for that matter. I own three M&Ps with over 29,000 rounds between them. I'm a deactivation lever-pusher and I field strip and clean after every range session, so I'm speaking from a fair amount of lever-pushing experience.

To completely avoid the pull-or-push controversy, I can recommend the SIG P320 or one of its many variants. Somehow SIG has managed to design a takedown system that requires neither a sear deactivation lever nor a trigger pull. Simply retract the slide, lower the takedown lever, and remove the slide. Easy-peasy!
 
It's just like any other dry fire. Choose whatever method suits you.

Just remember not to release the slide by depressing the slide lock. Ease the slide forward until the slide reaches it's normal battery position and pull the trigger. Then slide off the upper. If you let the slide go all the way forward until it stops, it could make the trigger press harder. In this state, the only thing holding back the slide is the sear. So in order to release the sear, you're opposing both sear return spring and the recoil spring.

There are a number of M&Ps that have magazine disconnects. AFAIK, many of those SKUs were for State Compliance (CA is one). Using the trigger pull is far more complicated since the trigger bar is disengaged with the mag out. (This is not a "political" comment, just a statement of fact. Don't make it a political thread).

As mentioned above, the since the slide is already locked back to check clear and rotate the TD lever, it's takes a second or less to depress the lever. I always use the lever on my 3 M&Ps.
 
It's just like any other dry fire. Choose whatever method suits you.

Just remember not to release the slide by depressing the slide lock. Ease the slide forward until the slide reaches it's normal battery position and pull the trigger. Then slide off the upper. If you let the slide go all the way forward until it stops, it could make the trigger press harder. In this state, the only thing holding back the slide is the sear. So in order to release the sear, you're opposing both sear return spring and the recoil spring.

There are a number of M&Ps that have magazine disconnects. AFAIK, many of those SKUs were for State Compliance (CA is one). Using the trigger pull is far more complicated since the trigger bar is disengaged with the mag out. (This is not a "political" comment, just a statement of fact. Don't make it a political thread).

As mentioned above, the since the slide is already locked back to check clear and rotate the TD lever, it's takes a second or less to depress the lever. I always use the lever on my 3 M&Ps.


what is the purpose of using tools? i notice a lot of people recommend using tools to toggle the lime yellow tab, why not just use the pinky? are they afraid their finger will get caught in the slide?
 
I could hit it easily with my pink on my 2.0 Compact, but I have a lot more trouble doing so with the Shield Plus. I've started just pulling the trigger. Used to it on my Glocks anyway.
 

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