How hot a barrel gets is irrelevant of the make/model/manufacturer of AR15. A hot barrel is not 15-Sport specific.
The barrel gets hot because of friction. The projectile travels down the length of the bore, contacting the lands & grooves of the rifling. Additional heat is transferred to the barrel from the hot propellant gasses.
The amount of heat is due to the tempo of shooting. Slow paced fire allows the barrel time to air cool between shots (radiating heat to the environment through convection) . Fast/Rapid fire (mag dump) does not allow the barrel much time to cool between shots.
There are no head shields on the stock 15-Sport handguards, allowing more radiant heat transfer through the polymer handguard. Heat shields create a chimney convection effect. Cold air enters the bottom handguard vent holes, barrel transfers heat to the air, hot air exits the top handguard vent holes.
Heat shields insulate the sides of the handguard. Shoot fast and hard, heat will overcome the insulation provided by the heat shields.
If you do not want to use gloves & want a relatively inexpensive handguard, go with a Magpul MOE. If using optics, expect to encounter heat mirage distortion from the hot air exiting the top of the handguard.
If you do not want to use gloves and want to minimize heat mirage distortion effect on an optic, swap to a railed handguard that has lots of vent holes between the rails. Put rail covers on the exposed rail.
Have you seen the Hickock45 videos where he does a mag dump out of his Colt? The exposed exterior surface of the barrel is smoking. The barrel is so hot that it's cooking off the Ballistol, just like oil in an hot pan.
Your question of what is the "best" oil can't be answered, because all you will get is opinion. I can give you some suggestions for oil to try out and evaluate.
Ballistol: Non toxic. Smells like black licorice. Depending on where you live, it can be challenging to acquire. Requires more dwell time on the fouling to dissolve it. It saves time because it cleans, lubricates, and protects in one shot. I'm experimenting by using Ballistol exclusively on my new Ruger P95. The more my barrel goes through heat cycles with ballistol, the more it is becoming easier to clean. I assume that the Ballistol is seasoning the barrel.
Breakfree CLP: Used by the military. Available almost everywhere. When using the aerosol can CLP, it foams up. The foaming action is very nice when cleaning the bore. The dwell time is longer than a dedicated solvent, but less than Ballistol. Cleans, lubes, protects.
RemOil: Very lightweight oil. I don't use it on my AR15's.
Outers Gun Oil: It is oil. Nothing special about it. It works.
Mobil 1 Synthetic: It works. Its easily found. For the price of a few ounces of oil branded for firearms, you get a QUART of oil.
I've used almost every solvent & lubricant out there, and I'm a Ballistol convert. I'm happy to sit through the longer dwell time on parts to use a non-toxic product. I'm consuming & not replenishing the non-Ballistol cleaning solvents & lubricants in my cleaning kit.
I use the hand spray packaged Ballistol at home. I keep an aerosol can of Ballistol in my range bag.
What Ballistol won't replace is a good copper solvent. I'll always keep a bottle of Hoppes Copper Solvent in my kit.