M&P Tools

[Milton]

Does anyone make the tools to tighten or remove the hammer and trigger pins on the older M&P's where the pins are screwed into the frame?

 

[chief38]

Unless they are bent or broken may I ask why you are removing them? I believe the screw in type must be removed from the inside and would probably be best removed with a high quality 3 jaw chuck. Using anything else would surely ruin them I would think.

 

[WR Moore]

i very vaguely recall small slots on the boss of a very early S&W hammer & trigger pins. This hints that a factory made socket type wrench may have been in use. If that's the case, I expect many/most of those tools are lost & gone forever.

I agree with chief38, if it ain't broke, don't mess with it.

 

[Milton]

I have a 1905 M&P that had a loose hammer pin.The revolver was very hard to cycle in double and single action as I received it and I noticed a rub mark on the left side of the hammer.On taking the revolver apart and expecting the worst I found that the hammer pin had un-screwed enough to move the hammer to one side at an angle to the frame.I did tighten it with make shift tools but was hoping there were some tools out there that I could use if this happens again.

 

[chief38]

I have a 1905 M&P that had a loose hammer pin.The revolver was very hard to cycle in double and single action as I received it and I noticed a rub mark on the left side of the hammer.On taking the revolver apart and expecting the worst I found that the hammer pin had un-screwed enough to move the hammer to one side at an angle to the frame.I did tighten it with make shift tools but was hoping there were some tools out there that I could use if this happens again.

Again, I'd use a small & good quality 3 Jaw Chuck - preferably one mounted on a Drill Press. This would make sure that the Jaws of the Chuck were perfectly perpendicular to the Stud, so it is locked onto it evenly and tightly, and a Drill's Chuck Jaws are made to not slip, mar, and spaced perfectly evenly. I do not know if and or what kind of Drill Press you might have, but even if the Chuck is too large for this application, a smaller one can be purchased and changed on the drill press if you have a Morse Taper Mount. There are also smaller chucks with straight mounting shafts on them so they could be chucked right into the existing Drill Chuck on the Press.

This is the way I'd approach it anyway. I like using my Drill Press for many other tasks other than just drilling holes. When using it with a Spring Loaded Center to hold a Tap in conjunction with a Tap Wrench, it assures perfect alignment which in turn helps keeping very small taps from breaking. Kind of eliminates human angle error so to speak.

The Chuck below is a very small Jacobs "O" Chuck (0" - 5/16") with a shaft on it to chuck into any other Chuck. Very small and should be able to get into Revolver when all parts are removed.

 

[Milton]

Thank you !!

 

[chief38]

I do not know of any "Official Stud Tightening Tool" that is readily available these days. I'd bet at the time S&W supplied some sort of tool to do the job, but good luck trying to find one today!

There are some specialty Pliers that are smooth (without grooves that would mangle the Stud) and meant to fit & grip round stock from the front or tip, but I do not know if they would fit inside the gun's frame. If I am not mistaken I believe Snap-on sells them but could be another Tool Company - don't recall precisely, sorry.

 

[chief38]

Thank you !!

PS: didn't mention it but of course I'd tighten the Stud with your hands turning the Drill Chuck, NOT under power. In fact just to be on the safe side, unplug the drill press motor.

ALSO: Check to make SURE the Stud has not been bent prior to tightening. Replacements are still available I believe. If it is in perfect shape I suppose (even though I am always against using it in firearms for the most part) a drop of Blue Loctite can be used to keep it from working loose again. Do NOT use the Red!! Let dry over night before reassembling parts.

 

[Milton]

Thank you for your concern but I have used a drill press before without power to do other things that needed correct alignment and slow speed.
My father had a pair of pliers that he used to repair washing machines with in the 60's that would work,now if I could just find some.
Thank you again for your help.

 

[chief38]

Thank you for your concern but I have used a drill press before without power to do other things that needed correct alignment and slow speed.
My father had a pair of pliers that he used to repair washing machines with in the 60's that would work,now if I could just find some.
Thank you again for your help.

Great! Of course I never know anyone's skill level, abilities or what tools people have etc, so sometimes I mention what seems obvious to some but not others just in case. I like to err on the side of caution! Good luck with the repair and please let us know how it turns out.