M&Ps and Steel Cased Ammo

LOBONCA

Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2011
Messages
85
Reaction score
2
Is anyone here using steel cased ammo in their M&P? If so, are you noticing any additional wear, lack of accuracy or increase of residue? What brands are you using?

Is putting steel cased ammo into an M&P like putting regular gas in a racing car (poor performance, damage to mechanical parts)?
 
Register to hide this ad
I've heard some opinions is all, about maybe being hard on the feed ramp. Personally, I plan to start reloading for mine since I do for my rifles already. I don't think I will ever put any in my gun though. Just my opinion. :)
 
I tried Monarch brand 115 FMJ steel case because they were cheap at the range. These are the first rounds I have ever used where I had to wash my hands because they caused my hand to turn a funky looking green after 200 rounds. I shot 150 of the brass 115 grain FMJ's and no residue on my hands, but I cleaned the gun before shooting them and got a lot of gunk off the weapon while doing so.

I ran 200 rounds 100 were through my Glock 26 and there was one failure to fire but I had three in a row (well on three consecutive range visits there was one failure to fire) so I am gonna have a gunsmith look at my Glock it did this with other ammunition also so it could be the firing pin isn't correct or something along those lines.

Other than that I shot great with both weapons but get ready to wash your hands after a few rounds at the range it must have something to do with steel and exploding gunpowder that causes the weird residue on you hand!
 
For years and years, my guns hardly knew anything else existed. I've run Wolf and Tula with no issues. My hands don't turn green though:confused:, my fingertips get dirty from handling the steel case.

Truth be told, I don't notice the gun being any dirtier or gunkier after shooting the communist ammo than using the el cheapo WWB, Remington UMC or Federal Champion. If you can get it cheap enough, around $8.69-8.99 per box of 50, the steel case stuff is fine for training, but if it isn't considerably cheaper I would just buy cheap brass FMJ's.

I don't reload, but when I shoot brass I save them and trade them for credit at my LGS.
 
At our range, those shooting military guns shoot the steel cased ammo by the case lots.

However, since a half-dozen or so got steel cases stuck in the chambers of their American pistols, the number of people using it in quality guns has dropped . Haven't seen any stuck in an M&P, but I have driven steel cases out of Kimber, XP, Paraord.

I read the US Army report on the experiment wiith steel cases in the 1911 and decided not to use it, but I also reload.
 
Several years ago a fellow shooter was using the then inexpensive Wolf 9mm steel cased ammo (ca $85/5000). I tried a box in several guns but experienced feeding/ejection issues and the guns were absolutely filthy after firing. That was my first and last experience with steel cased ammo.
 
Last edited:
Shooters at our local pistol matches started using the Russian steel cased ammo in to save money but the ammo was very inconsistent with powder charges from loud booms to those just above squib loads. That lasted only a couple of matches, now all are back to brass cased stuff. Even in rifles the feeling here is if it is for a Russian rifle, 7.62x54R or 7.62x39 it seems reliable but the 223 stuff has expanded and stuck in the chamber on more than one occasion. Personally, I like my guns and feel more comfortable sticking to brass rounds entirely. FWIW.
 
I have used cheap steel in my MP45 mid, with out a problem. I have noticed more out off group rounds with the steel, but they were still in the black
 
I read the US Army report on the experiment wiith steel cases in the 1911 and decided not to use it, but I also reload.
An extra word would make this clearer. "and I decided not to use it." ;) WW2 produced .45ACP was literally all steel cased. And steel jacketed. Copper and brass were strategic materials not to be wasted on pistol ammunition.

I put 2000 rounds of Wolf thru my 9mm Colt Government Model during one weekend training course without issues. Did a quick cleaning just before the final shooting examination just to be sure.

-- Chuck
 
Last edited:
I have used cheap steel in my MP45 mid, with out a problem. I have noticed more out off group rounds with the steel, but they were still in the black

Forgot to mention that aspect. For training, range plinking at paper or steel targets the Wolf and Tula stuff is great, but I would not shoot an accuracy driven competition with it.
 
I shoot "Precision" brand Russian, zinc plated steel in my M&P9c and it not only functions 100%, but will literally shoot one ragged hole at seven yards, off a sandbag. Very accurate. Doesn't seem to be any dirtier than Winchester white box ammo.
 
I shoot "Precision" brand Russian, zinc plated steel in my M&P9c and it not only functions 100%, but will literally shoot one ragged hole at seven yards, off a sandbag. Very accurate. Doesn't seem to be any dirtier than Winchester white box ammo.

I think Wolf and Tula probably would at 7 yards as well. I've just never sandbag tested accuracy on my carry guns. Where I notice the groups opening up is between 15-25 yards and beyond.

And you're right about it not being any dirtier than WWB or the Federal stuff.
 
Monarch steel cased ammo is about the worst steel cased ammo out there try wolf or tula they dont have the sticky rsidue on them and there is also plenty of good rewiviews about steel cased ammo on utube try he militery arms channel or neverenuffammo and in most guns will take steel cased most of the time its just a pressure differince which will rarely effect firearms or if the ammo type is palmer or lacer coated that will cause problems somtimes which is what most of the time what monarch steel case ammo has on it or brown bear try to stay away from them also steel case will make you:rs firearm dirtyer but in most firearms will funtiction good im am no expert so dont blame me or anything if somthing dosnt work right but to my knowlege my info is right
 
I've never tried wolf but tula jams my shield pretty consistently so I gave up on it. My 9C seems to handle it better, but I like 124 gr anyway so the steel stuff is not even on the table
 
Back
Top