M1917 endshake spec?

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Dec 17, 2007
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I've got a beater 1917 whose endshake is about .007". Is that excessive? I have no idea what the spec might be.

I can fit a .008 feeler gauge with the cylinder held back, and pushing forward on it will bind a .0015 feeler gauge (the smallest I have) against the forcing cone.

There are no drag marks on the cylinder face (just a LOT of pitting
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), and ignition is 100% (no light strikes, even when loaded without the moon clip). I could probably leave well enough alone, but I await your wisdom if you have any.
icon_smile.gif


BTW the ejector rod has right-hand threads on these babies, correct? Just in case I decide to ruin my gun (I mean, fix it).
 
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I've got a beater 1917 whose endshake is about .007". Is that excessive? I have no idea what the spec might be.

I can fit a .008 feeler gauge with the cylinder held back, and pushing forward on it will bind a .0015 feeler gauge (the smallest I have) against the forcing cone.

There are no drag marks on the cylinder face (just a LOT of pitting
icon_biggrin.gif
), and ignition is 100% (no light strikes, even when loaded without the moon clip). I could probably leave well enough alone, but I await your wisdom if you have any.
icon_smile.gif


BTW the ejector rod has right-hand threads on these babies, correct? Just in case I decide to ruin my gun (I mean, fix it).
 
For light use with light loads, you can probably stand that amount of endshake. It is, however, well past the specification of 0.001".

However, it's an easy fix with Powers shims (three 0.002"). Your finished B/C gap will be about 0.007"-0.008" which is fine for most guns.

Buck
 
Try taking out you second screw and put it end the front;it may take up your endshake
 
Try taking out you second screw and put it end the front
OK, I'm intrigued by this suggestion and lost. I was already lost, but can you explain why this swapping(I guess) of screws might tighten the old broad up a bit?
 

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