main spring contacts rebound slide
- Thread starter feets
- Start date
5-Shot
Member
This is a real puzzler so I'm grasping at straws. In the photo above, take a look at the link between the spring and the hammer. When the hammer is cocked is that link free to swing up to where it needs to go or is it being forced to push down some. The only reason I bring this up is I installed this link upside down in a much newer model (admittedly an entirely different arrangement) and its movement was limited as a result. The gun acted just like yours. I don't think yours is can be installed wrong but debris could be blocking it's movement.
Ed
Ed
I agree the solution is . . . in order of importance . . . to (1) replace the strain screw and fit it so the hammer spring is properly arched, (2) replace the main spring to insure you start with the proper spring tension and arc, and (3) replace the rebound spring to insure it is full-length to properly regulate the rebound slide travel.
Here is a pre-war M&P with what I understand is the exact same problem as the OP describes. Pictures 1 and 2 are with the strain screw (fully tightened) that is too short. And yes, it is possible for the upper corner of the rebound slide to contact the main spring if the strain screw is so short that the main spring has no arch.
In pictures 3 and 4 below, I've added a shim (happens to be another hammer spring) to correct the arch. It makes a whole lot of difference.
The example above happens to be a pre-war strain screw but I have more than a dozen of the post-war variety to fit the OP's 15-2. If you'll send me a PM with your mailing address, I'll put one in the mail.
Russ
Here is a pre-war M&P with what I understand is the exact same problem as the OP describes. Pictures 1 and 2 are with the strain screw (fully tightened) that is too short. And yes, it is possible for the upper corner of the rebound slide to contact the main spring if the strain screw is so short that the main spring has no arch.
In pictures 3 and 4 below, I've added a shim (happens to be another hammer spring) to correct the arch. It makes a whole lot of difference.
The example above happens to be a pre-war strain screw but I have more than a dozen of the post-war variety to fit the OP's 15-2. If you'll send me a PM with your mailing address, I'll put one in the mail.
Russ
Last edited:
Hi:
Consider installing a new mainspring and mainspring tension screw.
If you are not the original owner of this revolver, it is possible that a previous owner did shorten the mainspring screw "A Mite" and bent the mainspring also to lighten the action.
Consider installing a new mainspring and mainspring tension screw.
If you are not the original owner of this revolver, it is possible that a previous owner did shorten the mainspring screw "A Mite" and bent the mainspring also to lighten the action.
I agree an altered spring or screw will cause this problem. The problem with mine was solely with the Wolff mainspring. Maybe that was what was in the gun that originally started this thread ?
Consider this - you go in a tackle store, you can choose a fishing rod that bends at the tip, a rod that bends 1/3 of the way down, one that bends in the middle, or a panfish rod that bends like a wet noodle all the way to the handle.
I suspect aftermarket mainsprings are really no different - they design them to have different bend rates for a 'smoother double action pull, or whatever, and they simply bend differently from a factory spring. If they didn't behave differently, there would be no point in making them and they would put themselves out of business quickly.
The Wolff spring might be just fine in an older gun, but in my newer 686 with the MIM hammer and swing link, it bends in a way that lets it contact the rebound slide.
And I haven't measured, but the MIM swing link appears shorter to me than the older links that were pinned. Maybe not, but the geometry looks a bit different to me.
Consider this - you go in a tackle store, you can choose a fishing rod that bends at the tip, a rod that bends 1/3 of the way down, one that bends in the middle, or a panfish rod that bends like a wet noodle all the way to the handle.
I suspect aftermarket mainsprings are really no different - they design them to have different bend rates for a 'smoother double action pull, or whatever, and they simply bend differently from a factory spring. If they didn't behave differently, there would be no point in making them and they would put themselves out of business quickly.
The Wolff spring might be just fine in an older gun, but in my newer 686 with the MIM hammer and swing link, it bends in a way that lets it contact the rebound slide.
And I haven't measured, but the MIM swing link appears shorter to me than the older links that were pinned. Maybe not, but the geometry looks a bit different to me.
hotrod150
Member
In case anyone might be interested, I just got an email from Wolff tech support confirming that 686's need a longer than factory strain screw with their factory strength mainspring.
It would be nice if they would warn people about that up front.
I'll just stick with the factory spring and screw.
It would be nice if they would warn people about that up front.
I'll just stick with the factory spring and screw.
I've seen this as well. The strain screw sets into the rib on the spring, so it doesn't put the same arc on it.
Similar threads
- Locked
