Missing a bushing in a M&P revolver

[Kurusu]

I got a revolver that's missing the bushing around the bolt in the recoil plate.

I can't find the part in the schematics, and I don't know it's proper name.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

I would try to fabricate one, if unable to buy one. But I would need to know the dimensions. It apoears to be press fit.

Here's a picture (quite bad) but I think it shows what I mean.

Can anyone help out?

 

[dfariswheel]

Colt calls it a Recoil plate, S&W calls it a "Hammer nose bushing"

Gun Parts Corp have some for SOME models.
Assuming you have a Model 10 M&P....... The earliest type they have is for the Model 10 dash 10.

Hammer Nose Bushing | Gun Parts Corp.

Note that installation requires a special long flat face punch used down the barrel to seat the bushing.
Then the recoil face-bushing has to be stoned to eliminate raised edges or the face of the bushing itself if it's too high.
Note too that the bushing sets head space, and that's what's critical.

If you need to fabricate one, all that's needed is to turn a round steel bar to a tight press fit in the frame hole.
After beveling and shaping the back side, lightly bevel the edge so it won't catch when being seated.
After that's all done, shorten the bar to a flat disk then drill a firing pin hole that will just pass the firing pin.
The back side needs to be beveled to clear the firing pin.
This part is not available from Gun Parts, but shows how the back side is beveled and the edge is beveled.

Hammer Nose Bushing | Gun Parts Corp.

One the part is close to finished trim it close to the final thickness, then after pressing it in place, stone it to flush with the breech face AND to the proper head space.

In order to help retain the bushing, use some permanent type thread locker in the frame hole.
Over here we have Loctite Red 271.
Loctite is widely available in Europe.

 

[chief38]

I got a revolver that's missing the bushing around the bolt in the recoil plate.

I can't find the part in the schematics, and I don't know it's proper name.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

I would try to fabricate one, if unable to buy one. But I would need to know the dimensions. It apoears to be press fit.

Here's a picture (quite bad) but I think it shows what I mean.

Can anyone help out?

Try Jack First Gun Parts in Rapid City SD. He has lots of original S&W parts. (605) 343-9544

 

[RMFnLA]

Colt calls it a Recoil plate, S&W calls it a "Hammer nose bushing"

Gun Parts Corp have some for SOME models.
Assuming you have a Model 10 M&P....... The earliest type they have is for the Model 10 dash 10.

Hammer Nose Bushing | Gun Parts Corp.

Note that installation requires a special long flat face punch used down the barrel to seat the bushing.
Then the recoil face-bushing has to be stoned to eliminate raised edges or the face of the bushing itself if it's too high.
Note too that the bushing sets head space, and that's what's critical.

If you need to fabricate one, all that's needed is to turn a round steel bar to a tight press fit in the frame hole.
After beveling and shaping the back side, lightly bevel the edge so it won't catch when being seated.
After that's all done, shorten the bar to a flat disk then drill a firing pin hole that will just pass the firing pin.
The back side needs to be beveled to clear the firing pin.
This part is not available from Gun Parts, but shows how the back side is beveled and the edge is beveled.

Hammer Nose Bushing | Gun Parts Corp.

One the part is close to finished trim it close to the final thickness, then after pressing it in place, stone it to flush with the breech face AND to the proper head space.

In order to help retain the bushing, use some permanent type thread locker in the frame hole.
Over here we have Loctite Red 271.
Loctite is widely available in Europe.

I think you have the wrong part.

It looks like what he needs is the bushing for the cylinder locking pin, not the firing pin (hammer nose).

FWIW, I have never seen this problem and have no idea where you would find a replacement part short of having one made.

Installation would be interesting, to say the least.

 

[Kurusu]

I think you have the wrong part.

It looks like what he needs is the bushing for the cylinder locking pin, not the firing pin (hammer nose).

FWIW, I have never seen this problem and have no idea where you would find a replacement part short of having one made.

Installation would be interesting, to say the least.

You are absolutly right. What's missing is the bushing for the cylinder locking pin.

I'm working on having one made. No one seems to carry that part. It doesn''t even show in the schematics I have found.

The part being made will not be a press fit. I just hope it will be snug enough to be "locktited" in place.

Keep your fingers crossed.

Edit. If it fails I will try to get a firing pin bushing, I think it can be used as a base to make the bushing I need.

 

[dfariswheel]

I think you have the wrong part.

It looks like what he needs is the bushing for the cylinder locking pin, not the firing pin (hammer nose).

FWIW, I have never seen this problem and have no idea where you would find a replacement part short of having one made.

Installation would be interesting, to say the least.

You're right....It pays to take a closer look at pictures. My bad.

 

[Alk8944]

This is a duplicate post, everyone may learn something by reading the original: Question about Military & Police revolver
The moderators should have moved the original for clarity.

 

[Kurusu]

You're right....It pays to take a closer look at pictures. My bad.

Well, don't feel to guilty about it. My photos are atrocius.

 

[dfariswheel]

Well, don't feel to guilty about it. My photos are atrocius.

Maybe so, but this is a case of looking right at it and not "seeing" it.
I read frame bushing and my eyes lied to me.

Still, this is a case where it's an easy part for a machinist to make.

Start out with some good steel rod and turn it to a tight press-fit in the hole.
Bevel the back side so it'll go in without catching the edge of the hole.

Drill a small diameter hole for the latch pin, then use precision broaches to broach the hole to a snug fit over the latch pin.
Put a very light bevel on the back side of the center hole so the latch pin will go through smoothly.

Cut the bar off to a disk slightly thicker then you need and harden it.

Then apply a permanent Loctite and press the bushing into the hole.
You may need to use a heavy steel bar across the frame face to allow pressing the bushing into place, or make an off-set flat faced punch to tap it into place.
You'd probably need two sets of hands to position the frame over a brass bar-like anvil to support the frame while the bushing is tapped into place.

Stone the excess thickness flush with the frame and done.

Any good gunsmith or machinist should have no trouble making such a simply shape.

 

[Kurusu]

@ dfariswheel.

You give very sound advice. And I'm already working on the path you pointed.

Totally urelated, but just to explain why this seems a double post.

I started this quest in the time frame of my revolver part of this forum(its 'a 1944 made Victory model), and was adviced to place the question in the gunsmithing subforum. So that's the reason why.

 

[michpatriot]

If the bushing were knurled after sizing, there would be no need for glue...or you could place a very cold bushing in a hot hole and it will stay very put, say a bushing is 001 to 002 larger than the hole and you shrink it with dry ice or liquid nitrogen and while it's on ice you heat the hole in the frame enlarging it, when you quickly insert the bushing and everything then goes room temp the bushing effectively has a 002 interference fit. Won't ever move, two ways without glue that probably will soften from solvents that clean carbon and such on firearms.

 

[WR Moore]

I used to do a lot of shrink fits with more robustly sized parts. As small as that bushing is, the part would most likely need to be less than 0.001" oversize for a shrink fit. The smaller the diameter, the less oversize the part can be and still get the correct fit. The exact diameter should be left up to the machinist if they have experience with shrink fits.

That bushing disappeared from revolvers a long time ago. Apparently the engineers (or the flippin' penny pinchers) felt that with the better steels, wear wasn't that big an issue.