Mod 14 Target Masterpiece help

Sele

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Hello

I am writing from Sweden and I am in the long process (months...) of buying a used K38 from a retiring shooter in our club.

I've shot it and it feels great, has pretty much wear on the bluing from the holster but mechanically it seems fine. Seeing im new to revolvers I need to learn everything I can.

Hopefully I get the permit around september/october if the Police isnt too busy with sorting through gun permits for all moose hunters here, the season starts in early september..

What should I look for regarding faults and parts needing replacements eventually? From the serial no I think its from 1959.

Kindly
A Swede
 

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Welcome!

If the gun has been cleaned and lubricated properly in its 65 (?!) years it should not require parts to be replaced. If it has had a large number of rounds fired through it eventually something might break, of course. Others here may recommend a spare parts kit.

S & W named this a K-38 Masterpiece, and in 1958 added the model 14 to that. Informally with the wide hammer and trigger they would add a "Target" sticker to the side of the box to show these parts were installed.

We need a range report, enjoy!
 
Thank you for your replies. I wouldnt really know how many rounds this one had seen through the years, probably alot more in its early years than in the last 20 something years.

Yes I will provide a report once I've gotten the permit and a few hundred rounds has been fired I promise!

As for its maintenance I cannot say, I will do what I can. Is there kits with spare parts readily available for a gun this old?

I know alot of companies dont want the hassle of exporting something even remotely connected to a firearm. A new grip would be nice, maybe Rink or Nill in Germany can help with that..
 
Just for the hell of it, pass a feeler gauge between the cylinder face and the barrel/forcing cone . . . .
Hopefully, about .006” will be the result.
 
I managed to snag one of those a couple of years back. Much easier here, even in California, than over there. They are outstanding target guns and I am confident you will enjoy yours very much. The grips on mine are significantly different than the grips on yours. I have no idea which is "correct."
 
I don't know af any "kit" of parts available. Mostly because not many break. The K Frame revolver parts are standard in all models of the same era. Hammers, triggers, springs, etc. New parts may be slightly more difficult to find, but used parts are all over the internet, and there are several dealers marketing them. Jack First in Rapid City, South Dakota manufacturers replacement parts.
Checking the cylinder for head space and "play" would be the first things to check. If excessive, that can be corrected by a gunsmith.
The Mod 14 is a great shooter, and should give you many years of service.
 
Hello

I am writing from Sweden and I am in the long process (months...) of buying a used K38 from a retiring shooter in our club.

I've shot it and it feels great, has pretty much wear on the bluing from the holster but mechanically it seems fine. Seeing im new to revolvers I need to learn everything I can.

Hopefully I get the permit around september/october if the Police isnt too busy with sorting through gun permits for all moose hunters here, the season starts in early september..

What should I look for regarding faults and parts needing replacements eventually? From the serial no I think its from 1959.

Kindly
A Swede

Valkomna till Forum! You think your revolver is 1959 per the s/n, but does it have the "Model 14" stamped in the yoke area when you swing open the cylinder? As others have mentioned, prior to 1957 it was a K-38 Masterpiece, and after 1957 it became the Model 14. Yours has a nice set of K-frame non-relieved diamond center target stocks, too. It shows a little wear on the finish, but it should still be an outstanding and accurate shooter. You probably won't need any replacement parts, but you won't really know until you get to handle it and check out the hammer, trigger, cylinder rotation, etc. Good luck with your permit. Njuta!
 
The odds of there being enough mechanical wear to present problems are very low if the revolver was used with target loads. Standard .38 loads, especially target loads, are very low pressure compared to the capacity of the revolver.
 
I see holster wear at the muzzle and the extractor rod is worn to bare steel, so it has been shot a good bit. Service life is in the tens of thousands of rounds, maybe 100000.

A friend wore out two PPC revolvers with Douglas barrels in only 150000 wadcutters each, but they were able to be overhauled.
 
Nice turnout with answers thank you guys.

Hawg rider: It does have mod-14 stamped on the yoke when swung open and what I guess is the serial no so thats nice I guess. I appreciate your swedish tack så mycket!

I will most definitely use a feeler guage as two of you suggested, thank you.

Now I really can't wait for the process to be over. The permit will not be a problem, it just takes time to jump through all the legal and bureaucratic hoops that we have over here.

I see holster wear at the muzzle and the extractor rod is worn to bare steel, so it has been shot a good bit. Service life is in the tens of thousands of rounds, maybe 100000.

A friend wore out two PPC revolvers with Douglas barrels in only 150000 wadcutters each, but they were able to be overhauled.

I see thank you, yes it probably has been shot in the past alot. When you say wore out how did that show?

It isnt costing me alot of money but I dont want to have a catastrophic failure in my hand in the future either.
 
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It does have mod-14 stamped on the yoke when swung open and what I guess is the serial no

No. The serial number is on the butt of the gun, now under the target stocks.
S&W eventually started putting the serial number under the yoke with the model number because so many guns were equipped with target or "combat" stocks that covered the bottom of the but I do not think they had started that in 1959. I do not know when they stopped putting the serial number on the bottom of the barrel and the rear of the cylinder but somebody here surely does.

The number under the yoke is the "fitting number" used only to keep fitted parts together at the factory.
 
No. The serial number is on the butt of the gun, now under the target stocks.
S&W eventually started putting the serial number under the yoke with the model number because so many guns were equipped with target or "combat" stocks that covered the bottom of the but I do not think they had started that in 1959. I do not know when they stopped putting the serial number on the bottom of the barrel and the rear of the cylinder but somebody here surely does.

The number under the yoke is the "fitting number" used only to keep fitted parts together at the factory.

Well unless the fitting number is exactly like an S&W Serial no that dates to the number range that was produced in 1959 I guess this one has it stamped under the yoke!
 
Most likely, the only wear parts that might be necessary are a hand (turns the cylinder) and the cylinder stop & spring. This would only be necessary if the cylinder fails to carry up to properly align with the barrel before the hammer falls. Hands come in two size ranges, standard and oversize. IIRC, the standard hands run from 0.095-0.098 in thickness. If they have to be replaced, you end up measuring a bunch of hands to find one thicker than original.
 
No. The serial number is on the butt of the gun, now under the target stocks.
S&W eventually started putting the serial number under the yoke with the model number because so many guns were equipped with target or "combat" stocks that covered the bottom of the but I do not think they had started that in 1959.
Well, they had. My Model 14 has the serial number (K365321) in the yoke cut, just above the model number. It shipped in July, 1959.

I do not know when they stopped putting the serial number on the bottom of the barrel and the rear of the cylinder but somebody here surely does.
Officially in 1957. Barrel flat and cylinder locations eliminated in conjunction with the end of the soft fitting process.

However, there is evidence that those locations were falling out of use earlier. I have owned two K-38 Masterpiece revolvers without serial numbers in those locations. One of them shipped in November, 1956; the other in January, 1957.
 
forget about Rink and Nill. They are expensive and IMHO (which is based on experience) are only usable for high competetive one handed bullseye shooting (=Rink only offers grips with things like palm rest, finger grooves etc) or they are too large for proper handling if you have average sized hands (Nill). Get a Hogue Fancy Hardwood instead, not much cheaper, but more options, and these are grips you can use for a lot of shooting techniques and styles. I recommend the Fancy Hardwood without finger grooves, checkered (and with striped cap if you have larger hands), mounted on my M17 Masterpiece. And don't forget: They will suit your speedloaders...

regards from Germany
Ulrich




Thank you for your replies. I wouldnt really know how many rounds this one had seen through the years, probably alot more in its early years than in the last 20 something years.

Yes I will provide a report once I've gotten the permit and a few hundred rounds has been fired I promise!

As for its maintenance I cannot say, I will do what I can. Is there kits with spare parts readily available for a gun this old?

I know alot of companies dont want the hassle of exporting something even remotely connected to a firearm. A new grip would be nice, maybe Rink or Nill in Germany can help with that..
 
The Model 14 was "The Gun" to have for revolver competition from the early 60's until semi's took over. Your gun has the "Three T's" Target trigger, target hammer and target stocks. The left stock has not been relieved for faster reloading as many of the newer models do (I see some wear on your left stock in that area). The 14 is a sq. butt K frame and replacement grips will be easy to find if you need them. The standard load for bullseye competition was a 148 gr. lead wad cutter over 2.7 - 2.8 gr. of bullseye.

Enjoy your Model 14.

Al
Canada
 
Yes I have a Rink grip in really nice deluxe oak for my Walther .22 where I shoot exactly that one handed bullseye. Its just the only grip manufacturers that were in my mind at the moment of writing.

I will definitely check out Hogue grips and I am a sucker for the fancy hardwood, thank you! Yes the speedloaders are included and no, they dont work with the current grip as you noticed.

forget about Rink and Nill. They are expensive and IMHO (which is based on experience) are only usable for high competetive one handed bullseye shooting (=Rink only offers grips with things like palm rest, finger grooves etc) or they are too large for proper handling if you have average sized hands (Nill). Get a Hogue Fancy Hardwood instead, not much cheaper, but more options, and these are grips you can use for a lot of shooting techniques and styles. I recommend the Fancy Hardwood without finger grooves, checkered (and with striped cap if you have larger hands), mounted on my M17 Masterpiece. And don't forget: They will suit your speedloaders...

regards from Germany
Ulrich

Thank you also Al from Canada for your input.
 
Sele I like robertwalsh got mine used about 10 years ago.Mine has some worn spots and I dont know how many rounds have been through it but it is a fantastic shooter and the best revolver I own.I have put a lot of rounds through it and have never had a problem with any aspect of this gun.My 14 does not miss and that is with very little effort of my average skill level.I only have revolvers , 12 of them and nothing that I own compares to the 14 including my Python and an excellent model 19.Good luck with your choice and if you get the 14 you will see why many of us love this revolver.
 
That sounds great thank you. It is only a matter of time now. Hopefully I'll get it before our range is covered in 3-4 feet of snow and the -20 celsius kicks in so I get to enjoy it outdoors. Otherwise its the indoor range for six months.

Yes I think this gun will shoot better than me for as long as I have it, just as my bullseye .22 does. I do think U.S bullseye differs from european/swedish precision shooting as we call it. But thats irrelevant.

Sele I like robertwalsh got mine used about 10 years ago.Mine has some worn spots and I dont know how many rounds have been through it but it is a fantastic shooter and the best revolver I own.I have put a lot of rounds through it and have never had a problem with any aspect of this gun.My 14 does not miss and that is with very little effort of my average skill level.I only have revolvers , 12 of them and nothing that I own compares to the 14 including my Python and an excellent model 19.Good luck with your choice and if you get the 14 you will see why many of us love this revolver.
 
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