model 10-14 question

[panamajack310]

Hey guys any one out there own a 10-14???
I was at my local pusher this morning and he told me. Hey, you are a revolver guy I am sick of looking at this model 10 in my cabnet it has been sitting here for 3 years, I will sell it to you really cheap. I thought to my self MAN! you are worse that a crack dealer.....LOL The gun is NIB for $450.00. . I will probably be able to get a-lot cheaper than that..

I know it has a lock and MIM parts so here are my questions...

Was your hammer stiff and trigger heavy?? I tried cocking the hammer and it was stiff, the trigger was also heavy.

How is the finish on these new blued guns holding up?

 

[nipster]

Cant answer the "how do the new blued guns hold up" question, but even though it is brand new, and they go for around $700 new, I would not buy one to shoot it. You can pick up a nice older one for under $300, without the MIM, lock and all that stuff.

A new model 10 will never have any collectible value in your lifetime.

On the other hand, you could probably buy it, and sell it and make $150-200 on it instantly. Maybe more.

Is it one of the "classics" with the wood grips and pencil barrel or one of the later model 10's with heavy barrel and hogues?

 

[stantheman86]

I have 2 10-14's, and I love them both!

I'm also a Model 10 fanatic, and I needed a 10-14 because, well, it's a Model 10!

I left this one stock, it was a security trade in, all I did was add Altamont dymondwood magnas and left it alone. It's a very good shooter and every bit the equal of the older 10's.

The 10-14 on the bottom is my other one. I added Wilson Combat springs, an extended C&S firing pin, a trigger stop inside the rebound slide, and a MIM target hammer and trigger.I also used "The Plug" and removed the IL. I am undecided on grips, and I want to have a red insert added to the front sight blade. This gun will drive tacks, and it's super slick.

Above it is my 10-8, and I also have a 10-6. The 4" Model HB is one of my favorite all time firearms.

$450 is a good deal for a new 10-14, less than $400 would be even better..........I have seen trade-in 10-10's and 10-11's that look like they were dragged behind a truck go for $300, so a brand new 10 from any era for less than $400 is a steal.

Leave it stock and it's a great gun, but they are super easy to "slick up" with drop in parts. This is not so easy to do with the older, more fitted S&W's. I love my 10-14's and would never part with them.

All of the 10-14's are Heavy Barrel, Round butt 4" models. The only difference between the "Classic" model and the "standard" is they added the same $20 Altamont grips that I did to my 10-14, instead of the rubber Uncle Mikes, and added $100 to the price.......S&W no longer makes 10-14's as standard production, instead they make batches of them for the "Classic" line. They are not quite as easy to find new these days, but like was said, they won't be collectible but they are excellent shooters.

The blue holds up well, I carried both my 10-14's a bit in a leather IWB holster and saw no blue wear.

10-14's cost more than their stainless counterpart, the 64-8.........I have seen new 64-8's go for $550 or so. It's the first time I have ever seen a blued model sell for more than it's stainless equivalent....mostly because anything in the "Classic" line costs more now.

 

[Hapworth]

I'd want to know why it's been sitting unsold for three years; probably just reflects low demand for new revolvers, but still...

Hard to diagnose trigger pull online -- your definition of stiff and heavy might not be the same as mine, but as a rule, no, modern S&W's trigger pull is usually smooth and direct. How much experience with revolvers do you have? Certainly the pull will be heavier than most semi-autos, but if this one is feeling particularly heavy, I'd be concerned.

The price for NIB is certainly quite good, and the S&W warranty should take care of any issues it might have, so that's worth considering.

Alternately, with a little searching and patience you could get a used Model 10 in excellent shape for the same price or less, and do without the lock and MIM parts, if those are issues to you.

 

[panamajack310]

I am a huge revolver fan, Currently the only S&W revolver I own that has a lock is my wife's 642. I took the lock out of that thing the day I got it. I will do the same with the model 10. I was really looking for a model 64 so I can use as an off duty gun. My agency hates that I carry revolvers and now I can not carry one as a duty weapon. I can use them as back up and off duty guns. I have been using my 19-4 and 625 3" but I think I am going to stick with another K frame for off duty carry.

 

[stantheman86]

Used 64's from all eras are all over the place right now, there was a dealer on GunBroker who had like 200 of them from -3's up to -8's, I got a -8 from him for like $320. He said he's getting more but I stopped checking after a few months.

Ohio Corrections just got rid of thousands of them and the market is flooded with used, hardly fired 64's. My -8 looks like it was holster carried for a few years and maybe saw a handful of rounds. It's as tight as a new one. It shoots rings around my -3, and has a better action. I also have a -7 that is one of my favorites.

I'm a huge fan of the "new gen" S&W revolvers, but I do own many older ones too. You could look around for an older one and probably get it for $300 or so, but I like the MIM guns and think they have great DA pulls. There are no "flat spots" or hitches. The new S&W's will have a heavier DA pull but it is more smooth, if that makes any sense S&W moved the seat for the mainspring up a little to add more power to the hammer, to make the frame mounted firing pin more reliable. I happen to like a firm, even DA pull so new S&W's really work for me.

MIM parts are more uniformly made, so aftermarket parts will just drop in. If the DA pull is too heavy for your taste, a lighter mainspring and an extended firing pin will slick them up really nice and not sacrifice reliability. I really wrung out my modified 10-14 and it has never had a FTF with any ammo.

There are a lot of people who despise the new MIM and IL S&W's, but that is their choice. They are missing out on some sweet shooting revolvers.

 

[panamajack310]

The gun has rubber shoes and is a heavy barrel...I understand where you are coming from with the DA being a heavier pull. I may end up buying the thing and throwing some 1980's round but grips on the thing. I have a few brand new cocobolo grips for round butt K frame.

 

[stantheman86]

So it's not a "Classic" but just a standard 10-14, there is no difference except the grips.

It's probably been unsold because there is little demand for brand new fixed sight k-frame 4" .38 Special like the 10-14 revolvers except for S&W nuts like us And places like Bud's who's been selling those trade-ins for $300 makes demand for brand new 10-14's even less.

There is still a lot to be said for buying brand new, you get to be the first one (outside the factory) to run a round through it, you know it hasn't been messed with by some basement gunsmith trying an action job, or used with someone's home brew weird handloads, etc.

I have few handguns that I have had since brand new,my Dads's 1989 vintage 586-2, 2.5" 66, one of my Ruger GP100's, and my CZ85b come to mind. I know exactly what has been put through them, that they haven't been abused, and approx. how many rounds they have through them. Kind of like buying a new car, you know it hasn't been beat on

 

[nipster]

Speaking of those model 64's, the prices seemed to be going up, are there more coming?

I want to get a couple.

 

[stantheman86]

The prices went up like what, $30 or something for the 2nd batch........probably because they sold out of them in like 2 weeks and knew they could get more for them.....and they did

I don't know if they are actually getting more, I think the ship has sailed on that deal and if they do get more they will be more $$$. What happened is most of them actually sold to other dealers, and those same guns are now on GB again for $100 more. There just happened to appear bunches of polished up 64's for $400 right after the original dealer ran out

I wanted a 64-8 for a while, and for about $320 I got a decent one. I already had a 64-3 and was trying to get a 64-5 before he ran out but his quantity went from like 35 remaining to "Auction Ended" instantly, and he emailed me saying someone called and bought them all.

He also had bunches of 10's for $300 which also sold quickly.

 

[Dadoody]

I had a Model 10-14. It was built in 2003, and I traded it in 2010 for a Ruger GP100.

It was a decent gun, heavy and solid, but it also had a much heavier trigger pull than any other S&W I've ever handled. I did not like the double action on it in the least.

I currently have a Model 28-2, and it is crisp and fun. A huge difference from the clunky modern Model 10.

 

[rcp1936]

An old thread but I bought a model 10-14 and don't like the trigger at all compared to a model 10 I bought in 94 and then like a fool sold it
There is no firing pin like older models and trying to improve the trigger with Wolf Springs gave me over 60% light hits
S&W ruined a classic with the 14
I don't know how they call call this a CLASSIC

Should have kept my Ruger GP100 38spl

 

[Hapworth]

An old thread but I bought a model 10-14 and don't like the trigger at all compared to a model 10 I bought in 94 and then like a fool sold it
There is no firing pin like older models and trying to improve the trigger with Wolf Springs gave me over 60% light hits
S&W ruined a classic with the 14
I don't know how they call call this a CLASSIC

Should have kept my Ruger GP100 38spl

Did you use the Wolff full power or reduced power mainspring? A full power will reduce and smooth trigger pull while still providing reliable ignition; the reduced power mainspring can result in light strikes without other action work and proper round selection.

Too, did you use a reduced poundage rebound spring? This will affect trigger pull weight, too. The trick is to balance the main and rebound spring poundages to your liking, assuming everything else is reasonably smooth and in spec in the action.

The modern S&W revolvers are every bit as tunable as the old, with some differences in approach needed and outcomes expected. Suggest you look into action work from a reputable revolversmith to get a preferred trigger pull.

 

[rcp1936]

Did you use the Wolff full power or reduced power mainspring? A full power will reduce and smooth trigger pull while still providing reliable ignition; the reduced power mainspring can result in light strikes without other action work and proper round selection.

Too, did you use a reduced poundage rebound spring? This will affect trigger pull weight, too. The trick is to balance the main and rebound spring poundages to your liking, assuming everything else is reasonably smooth and in spec in the action.

The modern S&W revolvers are every bit as tunable as the old, with some differences in approach needed and outcomes expected. Suggest you look into action work from a reputable revolversmith to get a preferred trigger pull.

Well I used the reduced power on my 65-5 with no problem
But yes I did use the reduced power
I'll try a full power
As it is now the DA is over 11lbs
SA is great at 3.5

 

[rcp1936]

I installed a wolf regular power and the pull is 9--9-1/2 lbs
It is smooth and very acceptable
Haven't been to range to check it out yet