Model 10-5 Nickel questions re: the thumbpiece Nickel

JSticks

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A while ago I purchased a nickel standard barrel Model 10-5, mid 1960's vintage. I was very pleased with its condition and that it came with PC magnas numbered to the frame.

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The nickel plate was almost perfect, but for a small nick above the thumbpiece, on the edge of the frame.

Recently, I removed the thumbpiece and I found a few more spots where the nickel plate was damaged.

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But, I was surprised when I looked at the underside of the thumpiece. The exposed side looked like what I would expect on a mid sixties K frame, but the underside looked like a poorly made MIM part (notice that the hole is off center and it had rough burr that I removed). The part is not up to S&W quality and I think S&W MIM parts are well made.

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So,... these "discoveries" left me with two topics of inquiry. First, is this thumbpiece "correct" for this Model 10-5? I'm thinking that it is some sort of aftermarket replacement, especially if it is a MIM piece, maybe from a Taurus or Rossi or another S&W lookalike.

Second, is there anything I can do to stop any further damage to the nickle plate? That is, keep the damaged area from spreading. I apply a liberal amount of Ren Wax.

Anyway, your comments and suggestions are appreciated.

Jay
 
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I do not know what MIM is made from. I am sure an alloy of sorts. Is it magnetic? Looks like it might be non original part. I have seen the back of thumb pieces rougher than they should be.

As far as protecting the nickel, you have to keep the transfer of oxygen and humidity from getting under the plating to continue the oxidation process. Wax is good I would say.. Maybe clear nail polish on the end of a toothpick? Sally Hanson " Hard as Nails" or " Hard as Hull " clear head cement available at fly tying shops

No nail polish jokes. I use it, because it is as good as head cement for fly tying;)
 
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That is a later MIM thumbpiece and in the photos looks like it is polished stainless not nickel. There looks like there is a slight color difference when it is on the revolver. It has been filed or stoned to make it fit. That is NOT factory. There are some dimensional differences in parts that appear the same that have a lot of years between them. The force fit is probably what caused the dings in the finish.
 
I am sure that discovery was a gut punch , felt it myself from here. That gun is nice enough that , if a period correct nickel thumb piece cannot be found , I would obtain a blued piece and have it nickel plated.

I checked Jack First to no avail ; might be worth giving them a call. Also - throw it out to the collective here - where can a guy find a correct nickel thumb piece?

The one you have has gotta go. Best of luck to you.
 
If you get a new or different thumbpiece to replace the one you've got and intend to have it nickled, I suggest you fit it to the frame before you send it off to be nickled. It may have to be fit just like the one you have. Hard to tell for sure, but if it has to be fitted, I'd try removing equal parts on each side of the hole to see if it could be made to fit centered on the hole.
 
OP, beautiful gun even with the little flaw. If you don't mind my asking, generally what did you have to pay for it?

Thanks, Joe
 
Joe,

I bought this 10-5 at our favorite online auction site. The winning bid was $190.00 plus $20.00 shipping. I think the lack of interest was due to the sellers pictures. Nickel handguns can be difficult to photograph. Here is an example of a listing picture:

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And a picture of how it arrived. I did very little polishing (Mothers Mag Polish). In other words, this is pretty much what it looked like upon receipt.

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I think when bidding on nickel handguns what to look for is damage to the nickel plate, chipped, pealing or worn through to the steel. Sellers often seem to take poor pictures that make nickel handguns look poorer than they are. Or, maybe I just got lucky....
 
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