model 10 barrel removal
- Thread starter rkjent
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jj2am44
Member
Remove the pin-if it has one, and unscrew it, being very careful using a barrel vise. Although, it can be done without one, it is better to find one and use it rather than stick a broom handle through the frame.
Yes remove pin if it has one.
You can take the cylinder off only and fashion 2 pieces of hardwood to fit contours of frame at the front (Just behind barrel)
Be able to clamp those two really tight with at least 1' or leverage.
Then using softer wood, Clamp barrel in vice real well, And spin off,
It may take a lot of force to start it moving, But then it should go real easy.
Why do you want to remove barrel?
Peter
You can take the cylinder off only and fashion 2 pieces of hardwood to fit contours of frame at the front (Just behind barrel)
Be able to clamp those two really tight with at least 1' or leverage.
Then using softer wood, Clamp barrel in vice real well, And spin off,
It may take a lot of force to start it moving, But then it should go real easy.
Why do you want to remove barrel?
Peter
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Yes, but it is a job for a trained person. You will warp the frame and ruin the revolver so that it cannot be repaired if you try it yourself or have someone do it that does not know how or have the right tools.
Just FYI, there is little point in taking the old one off unless you are going to put a new one on. That is not nearly as easy as taking the old one off. the last one I paid a pro to do cost about $65. That is much cheaper than risking tweaking the frame doing it yourself.
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Earlier posters mentioned a barrel vise-this is only one part and can be 2 pieces of wood with a v channel in it to clamp the barrel in a good vise.
The really important part is a frame wrench. This item supports the frame while removing the barrel of double action revolvers. Brownells lists their own complete frame wrench for K frames for $140. Which, while expensive, is way cheaper than a new frame. Different heads, to allow the wrench to fit other frame sizes run about $100 each.
Trying to whittle one yourself without knowing what part of the frame you have to use as your leverage point so that the frame won't get warped isn't worth your time.
Replacement barrels don't just screw in. The "draw"-the amount the barrel has to turn from finger tight*-may have to be adjusted, as will the barrel/cylinder gap and possibly the forcing cone.
*Yes, you can force this. The result can be a cracked frame tenon where the barrel screws in.
The really important part is a frame wrench. This item supports the frame while removing the barrel of double action revolvers. Brownells lists their own complete frame wrench for K frames for $140. Which, while expensive, is way cheaper than a new frame. Different heads, to allow the wrench to fit other frame sizes run about $100 each.
Trying to whittle one yourself without knowing what part of the frame you have to use as your leverage point so that the frame won't get warped isn't worth your time.
Replacement barrels don't just screw in. The "draw"-the amount the barrel has to turn from finger tight*-may have to be adjusted, as will the barrel/cylinder gap and possibly the forcing cone.
*Yes, you can force this. The result can be a cracked frame tenon where the barrel screws in.
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barrel removal
I am a machinist/tool maker by trade. I am accustom to working with precision tools. My first instinct is to attempt this myself, but I also know the limitations of the tools I have at home. I think I will take this one to a gunsmith.
In days past I would have taken it to work and repaired it, but companies are so weird about guns now days it is a waste of time to ask.
Thanks to everyone for your advice.
rk
I am a machinist/tool maker by trade. I am accustom to working with precision tools. My first instinct is to attempt this myself, but I also know the limitations of the tools I have at home. I think I will take this one to a gunsmith.
In days past I would have taken it to work and repaired it, but companies are so weird about guns now days it is a waste of time to ask.
Thanks to everyone for your advice.
rk
captainjohnsofd
Member
Take the job to a competent gunsmith. Regardless of the tools available it is very easy to bend the frame of a revolver. I ruined a Model 28 frame about 20 years ago removing the barrel. Save the time, expense, and anguish. The job will be cheaper in the long run.
The gunsmith placed the gun in a pistol vise with heavy leather pads on the inside of the jars and drove out the bullet with a brass rod. It took him 5 minutes and he charged me 20 bucks. Money well spent.
The gun is as good as new. No damage at all. Shoots well. It was worth $20.00 not to have scrathes on the gun when he was finished.
I am more handy with tools than most, but some things you just leave to the professionals.
rj
The gun is as good as new. No damage at all. Shoots well. It was worth $20.00 not to have scrathes on the gun when he was finished.
I am more handy with tools than most, but some things you just leave to the professionals.
rj
I took it to the gunsmith. He charged me 20 bucks and the gun is as good as new.
I am pretty handy with percision tools, (I am a machinist) but some things you just leave to a professional.
Oh, and he let me hang out in his shop for an hour or so. Kind of cool just to look over all the guns and tools he had laying around. That was worth half of what I paid him.
rj
I am pretty handy with percision tools, (I am a machinist) but some things you just leave to a professional.
Oh, and he let me hang out in his shop for an hour or so. Kind of cool just to look over all the guns and tools he had laying around. That was worth half of what I paid him.
rj
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Hi, I gather you thought the barrel had to be replaced due to a bullet lodged in the bore? If this wasn't the second round following a stuck bullet, the barrel should be fine. Good to know the gunsmith was able to save you from having that job done.
