Model 12 buttstock removal

[rchall]

Does anyone know if there is a socket available to fit the head of the buttstock bolt on a Winchester Model 12 shotgun? Some type of socket with a blade to fit the slot of the bolt. Something that could be used with a 3/8” extension(s)?? Thanks!

 

[DWalt]

I have not removed a Model 12 stock for a long time so I don’t remember the details. I do have several guns that have slot heads for their stock screws. What I have done is to take a screwdriver with a sufficiently long shaft and wrap masking tape around it behind the blade to build up the diameter to slightly less than the stock screw hole. It acts to centralize the shaft and blade.

 

[mckenney99]

Perhaps you are looking for a "drag link" bit. Should be available at a hardware store or auto parts store.

 

[flintsghost]

All it takes is a large flat bladed screwdriver approximately 12" or so long, not including the handle. It isn't a big deal. I've had the same one since about 1968 for exactly that purpose. Works every time.

 

[AJ]

I have seen it done with a tire iron. The flat portion for hub cap removal/ pry bar end fits the screw head just fine. Those type of tire irons are getting harder to find.

 

[rchall]

OK, all good ideas! Should be able to complete the job now.

 

[JohnRippert]

I have seen it done with a tire iron. The flat portion for hub cap removal/ pry bar end fits the screw head just fine. Those type of tire irons are getting harder to find.

I kept mine from one of my cars in the past. Screwdriver type blade on one end, on the other end the shaft is hex shaped and has the lug socket. The hex shape of the shaft makes for easy turning with a crescent wrench.

Also have a old screwdriver that belonged to my grandfather the carpenter. Both are 16 inches long.

 

[Pisgah]

I have always used a BASD -- Big-*** Screw Driver. Never the slightest problem encountered.

 

[2152hq]

Make sure the blade of the screw driver is actually in the screw head slot down in there when you give it a hefty twist.
If the blade is not in the slot but instead has dropped down along side of the head and is now betw the screw head and the stock wood wall itself,,
twisting the screwdriver can often break out the side of the butt stock itself.
There's a lot of leverage there.

Use a flashlite to make sure you know the positioning of the slot and blade as you lower the blade down.

Other than that, it's a simple RH thread. Unscrew it . It may take a couple helpful slaps rearward to the pistolgrip to get it started away from the frame. But don't twist it off. There's a long tapered steel tang that extends into the wood that the stock has to clear coming off.

 

[DWalt]

Make sure the blade of the screw driver is actually in the screw head slot down in there when you give it a hefty twist.
If the blade is not in the slot but instead has dropped down along side of the head and is now betw the screw head and the stock wood wall itself,,
twisting the screwdriver can often break out the side of the butt stock itself.
There's a lot of leverage there.

That is precisely the reason that I previously suggested wrapping masking tape above the blade to act as a centralizer for the screwdriver shaft in the hole. The blade then cannot get between the bolt head and the wood. No flashlight is necessary. The long screwdriver I use for this purpose has roughly a quarter inch , or slightly more, square shaft that it could be turned by a crescent wrench for additional turning torque if necessary. I do not remember ever needing to do that. Insofar as I am concerned, that is the only way to go. Unless there is some special tool I know nothing about.

 

[Krogen]

Are you sure it's only slotted? I ask because sometimes the slot is in a hex-head bolt. My Beretta shotgun is like that. Much easier to put a socket on an extension than use a long screwdriver.

 

[Skeet 028]

Round bolt head. Many years ago I made a bunch of hex head bolts to change them out. Lots of waterfowlers used 'em in Md salt water/rain all kinds of stuff.. Made it easier to get 'em out wih a socket and ratchet...870s too

 

[2152hq]

That is precisely the reason that I previously suggested wrapping masking tape above the blade to act as a centralizer for the screwdriver shaft in the hole. The blade then cannot get between the bolt head and the wood. No flashlight is necessary. The long screwdriver I use for this purpose has roughly a quarter inch , or slightly more, square shaft that it could be turned by a crescent wrench for additional turning torque if necessary. I do not remember ever needing to do that. Insofar as I am concerned, that is the only way to go. Unless there is some special tool I know nothing about.

My through-bolt screw driver is a 12" length of 5/8d drill rod.
I milled one end to a screw driver blade bit so it's nice and square, has a hollow ground fit.

I had orig made one with a diff size blade on either end. But found I never needed one of the ends.

The other end has a hole thru it so I can slide whatever small shank dia screwdriver or punch that happens to be lying on the bench.
The large dia of the drill rod keeps it centered, the 'drive' end with the screwdriver leverage is more than enough to unbolt and then secure anything I've needed.

I didn't mention it before as it takes some time and effort to make a screwdriver bit on the end of a piece of 5/8d drill rod, especially by hand filing. Not every one has a piece of drill rod lying around the house that'd be worth of the time spent to make one.
But if you use one often as I do, it's worth the time to make one up

Careful use of the narrow shank screwdriver will get you there and has been done countless 1000's of times since forever.
Just a little care in use that's all.
That's all I used for many yrs and never damaged anything. But some of them were stubborn and tough to get lined up right. The narrow width blade not offering much power to unscrew some of the older stuff that's never been apart.
No need to over think these things.

Lot's of good ideas here.
The newer guns with a Hex head bolt are easy.
I actually never had come up against one till a couple yrs ago! 'Modern' stuff I don't work on as a rule.

I took a friends modern O/U to check over for a misfiring issue and the first thing I needed was a very long socket extension & a metric socket.
I had the 14mm socket but I don't think I have ever used it in the past. I know I haven't since then! Had to go out and buy the extension.

 

[AJ]

rchall,

Let us know what you try and how it works out.

AJ

 

[Skeet 028]

Working on guns is one of those things where you always seem to have to adapt...either tools or yourmode of attack on stuck parts. 40-50 years was enough

 

[DWalt]

No gun I have uses a hex head stock bolt, only round head with a slot. But all my guns are far from new. I don’t remember having any problems removing them with a screwdriver as described.

 

[Krogen]

No gun I have uses a hex head stock bolt, only round head with a slot. But all my guns are far from new. I don’t remember having any problems removing them with a screwdriver as described.

I suggested it because I've seen them before. For example, my Beretta trap gun has a metric, slotted hex-head stock bolt. YMMV....

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

Used a couple extensions on the long brownells driver with a good fitting large bit. Used some painters tape to hold them together.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

I made one out of 1/2 in all thread rod about 12 in long. Ground a flat bit on one end and double nutted the other end for a wrench. Or you can grind a thick flat and use a crescent wrench on it.......Works good on 97's too.

 

[rchall]

Found a screwdriver that was long enough and wrapped taped around the blade to keep it centered. Worked like a charm. Thanks for all the good ideas!