Model 19 Jammed

[Mexistrat]

I'll start off by saying that I know the answer is to take it to a gunsmith, which I will do...

I had shot about 75 rounds or so this afternoon when my M19 jammed. I had just loaded 6 rounds, closed the cylinder and indexed as per usual. Got on target, pulled the trigger... click. I waited several seconds while still pointed downrange and pulled the trigger again... jammed. Absolutely locked up tight as a drum in every regard. My gun is a paperweight with live ammo stuck inside.

I fussed over it for a few minutes, and then asked if any of the range/shop employees had any ideas. The resident revolver guy fussed with it for a few minutes and said it must have been a squib load. But there was no bang, not even a tiny one. Not even a puff. Just a click.

My revolver was clean and completely functional. It is in excellent condition. The ammo however I cannot fully vouch for. Some were reloads, not reloaded by me. I would blame the ammo, but since the round never lit off at all, I don't see why it would have caused a problem.

I am not a new shooter, but I don't have nearly as much experience as many of you, so just thought I'd see if anybody has any ideas while I call around for a gunsmith.

 

[bruner1981]

I've had this happen before with a couple different revolvers, though in my experiences, the rounds fired. I've noticed that occasionally, primers can deform and expand backwards into the firing pin hole. My solutions were fairly simple, I used my soft pistol case, which are pretty thick, I put one side against the right side of the cylinder, pressed the cylinder release, and lightly tapped on the cylinder with a rubber mallet. I don't know if this is the problem you are having, and I'm sure some would advise against my solution, but that's what worked for me and my guns are by damaged from it. I would start checking there, by trying to see if there is some material between the back of the case and the recoil shield

 

[bentcam]

can you see light between the cylinder and barrel ? jim

 

[murphydog]

The most common problem is the ejector rod backing out; you may be able to tighten it by holding onto the knurled portion with padded pliers and turning counter-clockwise. That is the extent of what I know to fix it ...let us know if that works.

 

[Bob T]

Check the cylinder/barrel gap to see if there is a bullet in the forcing cone. Also, if you can cock the piece, watch to see if the cylinder stop moves down.

 

[Inusuit]

So the hammer dropped but no sound other than the hammer fall? You can't cock the hammer or open the cylinder, correct? Can you see through the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone? If you had on hearing protection and only the primer fired, it might have been enough to lodge a bullet between the cylinder and the forcing cone. That's the only thing I can think of that would create the problem you describe. But the resident "revolver guy" should have figured that out if that's it.

Another reason I don't shoot any reloads but my own. Not saying that caused the lock up.

This maybe should be posted in the Gunsmithing section?

 

[Mexistrat]

So the hammer dropped but no sound other than the hammer fall? You can't cock the hammer or open the cylinder, correct? Can you see through the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone? If you had on hearing protection and only the primer fired, it might have been enough to lodge a bullet between the cylinder and the forcing cone. That's the only thing I can think of that would create the problem you describe. But the resident "revolver guy" should have figured that out if that's it.

This maybe should be posted in the Gunsmithing section?

I can't actually see light between the cylinder and the forcing cone. I am pretty sure I can see the glint of copper in that space, so that must be the culprit. The revolver guy at the range did say it was a squib, but I didn't want to believe him because I heard no bang at all, and definitely heard the click through my hearing protection. I thought it was just a dud.

Thanks for the all the help! If I am feeling brave, maybe try to do something myself with enough info. And yeah, this probably does belong in the gunsmith section. This is my first foray out of the usual areas I post in.

 

[arjay]

You can use a brass rod or a short dowel to tap the bullet back into the case. easy peasy

 

[Nightowl]

You might try running a cleaning rod down the barrel and see where it stops. You can measure where it stops to see if stops before it reaches the cylinder. If so, you can tap the bullet back into the case and open the cylinder. It you had jacketed bullets, it will take more force to drive the bullet back into the case. Then you can open the cylinder.

I see arjay beat me to the punch.

 

[Mexistrat]

You can use a brass rod or a short dowel to tap the bullet back into the case. easy peasy

In the unlikely event that round is still live (I don't know how it could be if the bullet is entering the barrel) is there any danger of pushing it back and touching it off?

 

[Peak53]

A 5/16" (if you don't have a .357) brass rod is probably better than a dowel, which could possibly splinter and get wedged between bullet and barrel. Apply penetrating oil in liberal amounts and tap away. Measure first to see if progress is made. This is how a smith would do it anyway. Don't ask me how I learned this If the primer fired, no chance of doing it again. Are you sure you only fired once?

 

[Mexistrat]

A 5/16" (if you don't have a .357) brass rod is probably better than a dowel, which could possibly splinter and get wedged between bullet and barrel. Apply penetrating oil in liberal amounts and tap away. Measure first to see if progress is made. This is how a smith would do it anyway. Don't ask me how I learned this If the primer fired, no chance of doing it again. Are you sure you only fired once?

Will do and will let you know. And yeah, I only fired once... though now I am second guessing my memory since you asked.

 

[arjay]

In the unlikely event that round is still live (I don't know how it could be if the bullet is entering the barrel) is there any danger of pushing it back and touching it off?

Nope,the primer had to fire to move the bullet into the forcing cone,you just didn't hear it.

 

[Art Doc]

Been there...done that.

Primer fired but no powder in case (never use somebody else's reloads).

Bullet is halfway out of chamber and halfway into barrel. Try using a wooden dowel down the barrel and tap the bullet back into the case.

 

[RichCapeCod]

I think the guys suggesting putting some rod type object down the bore and tapping the obstruction back into the cylinder have nailed it.

Oh, and dump that ammo!

Rich

 

[686-380]

Regardless, please let us know the outcome. Good luck!

 

[Mexistrat]

Fixed! I was going to wait until tomorrow, but it was bothering me too much. I used a metal rod I happened to have around. Rather than tapping the rod with a hammer, I held the gun by the grip and with the rod pressed on the lodged bullet tapped the other end against a door jamb.

I think I solved the mystery too, and it appears that it was my fault. I have quite a bit of ammo that my dad gave me, and I thought this round was from that batch. Upon closer inspection, it is from a batch I loaded. I was (and am) just learning to reload. I did maybe 100 rounds, and then had to disassemble my bench because we were remodeling our basement at the time. I'd forgotten that I did that first batch, and I am now certain that is where the bad round came from. I think it had no powder whatsoever. I have about 25 rounds left from that batch, and I just gave them all the shake test to make sure none were empty.

thanks for the help!

 

[Hapworth]

Fixed! I was going to wait until tomorrow, but it was bothering me too much. I used a metal rod I happened to have around. Rather than tapping the rod with a hammer, I held the gun by the grip and with the rod pressed on the lodged bullet tapped the other end against a door jamb...

I'm glad you got the problem resolved, but I sure hope you didn't damage your rifling jamming a metal rod down the bore and whacking away...

 

[Inusuit]

If the bullet moved easily back out of the forcing cone, you are probably okay regarding damage to the rifling. However, that's the reason Peak53 suggested a brass rod which is softer than the steel in the barrel and would definitely not damaged the bore. But a metal rod is preferable to a wooden dowel, which as Peak53 says, could splinter and jam the bullet even tighter. Anyway, I bet your 19 is just fine and I'm glad you resolved the problem.

 

[Mexistrat]

If the bullet moved easily back out of the forcing cone, you are probably okay regarding damage to the rifling. However, that's the reason Peak53 suggested a brass rod which is softer than the steel in the barrel and would definitely not damaged the bore. But a metal rod is preferable to a wooden dowel, which as Peak53 says, could splinter and jam the bullet even tighter. Anyway, I bet your 19 is just fine and I'm glad you resolved the problem.

The rod I used didn't come in contact with the rifling much at all. It only took 3-4 moderate taps. I feel pretty good about not having damaged anything after a visual inspection. Thanks again for the advice!