Model 29-2 Nickel: Bore solvent stains on the plating

NoMagNoGun

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This is my first ever post here at SWforum.

I have a chance to purchase a Model 29-2. 44mag, nickel plated finish. Pinned and recessed. I've only seen pics, and I'm concerned that I won't be able to remove the bore solvent stains on the plating. They look like surface blemishes, and from what I can see, the rest of the finish looks okay. No flaking or bubbling. I'm tempted to buy the gun, hoping I can polish out the blemishes.

Has anyone had success removing bore solvent stains from nickel plating? If so, what's the best way to go about it?

If there's a chance I can't get out the stains and make the gun look as good as it can, I'll probably pass on it.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Daren

:)
 
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Are you sure that they are stains and not just bad pics. I would say it depends on the price and what you're getting the gun for. If its a shooter and the price was right why not. Get another one down the line for collecting or maybe even think about getting the finish redone. A P&R'd gun is a pretty sweet revolver.
 
Lenny D;

I know, right? I was thinking the same thing. And as far as the pinned and recessed 29, you're right. I would really like to have a shooter and a collectable that stays in the safe. I had hoped to find a blued one to shoot. The price is definitely right. The seller seems to think the blems are from bore solvent, and from the pics, I tend to agree. Looks like dishwasher water spots on a wine glass. If you know what I mean...

Thanks for the post.
 
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Collects;

Thanks for the post. I've seen many positive comments about Flitz. I'm of the exact mentality for the job. I put around 45 hours into a 95% condition Model 659. I got rid of all the bead blasting, and the frame, slide, hammer, trigger, and even the alloy backplate now shine like a mirror. I've had pretty good luck using Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. I've also tried a truck driver favorite, Purple Polish. I will get some Flitz if I buy the gun. Based on the pics, I think the blems might be surface only. I've asked the seller if he wouldn't mind meeting me so I can see the gun up close.

I wonder if the nickel would stand up to a little 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper work? Or is it just too thin?
 
I would be concerned on deep the stains go. If they are deep enough the solvent may have loosen the bond between the gun and the finish causing the finish to start peeling.
 
Please do not use any grit sandpaper on it! It WILL deteriorate the finish as even as fine as 1500 is it is way too abrasive. Put your choice of polish on a old (clean) sock or washcloth and gently rub it in. Clean the surface very gently and you will find that most if not all of the blemishes will be gone or reduced in how offensive they are. Of course if it has breached the coating and is actively attacking the base it wont help to restore the original luster of the factory nickel. How is the rest of the surface look? Is it "cloudy" or "milky"? If so it may just need some tender care. Let us know what you do about this and post some photos if you can. What ser # range is it? Is it a S or N gun? Kyle
 
alaskavett; (Kyle)
Great post! Thanks for giving me some good things to look for. I'll probably buy the gun on Sunday. If the seller will let me try some polish (Fritz or Mother's Mag) I'll see if the blemishes will clean up. I really need to look it over, in case the nickel is pitted or starting to delaminate. It looked in one of the pics like maybe there was some pitting, which is probably bad. I mean, if there is anyplace on the gun where the nickel has been breached, it might mean that solvent got under it, right? And that can't be polished out.

I don't have the serial # so I can't offer any specifics about build date or other. I only know from the pics that it's pinned and recessed, which would probably make it '78 or '79, wouldn't it?

If I buy the gun and get it looking great, I will post pics and results for sure.

Thanks again for a great post.

PS- I think Sarah Palin is smokin' hot! :)
 
NoMag,
I believe that the P&R'd revolvers went away in 1983 and the -2 design change occured in 1962 so depending on your serial number the gun would fall between those dates.
 
[...] If the solvent contained amonia, perhaps it leached under the nickel to attach the copper plating which underlies the nickel plating? Copper corrosion is green. [...]

S&W never plated with copper underneath nickel and some experts on this forum have opinioned that ammonia does not react with nickel so solvents that contain ammonia are not quite as bad on nickeled guns as is commonly believed. Which solvents produce the milky or cloudy discoloring when left on too long is a good question so I wipe all solvents off nickel promptly after cleaning and just oil the revolver. Actually the oil is mostly to prevent rusting of the small case hardened and blued small parts.
Anyhow, if there are spots where the nickel plating is missing they can appear as lighter or whiter silver bare steel or the steel may have grayed or darkened or have light rusting. It's a good thing you have an opportunity to eye ball the 29-2. Otherwise I would not be confident that I could be sure what I'm looking at from all but the best photos.
I would snatch an appropriately priced nickeled revolver with a few flaws in its nickeling for a shooter. If you buy it please show us some pictures even if it's not one well funded collectors would brag about. Some of us just love great shooters.
 
If you can buy it right, I'd opine that its worth taking a chance.
I have never heard of bore solvent staining nickel, FWIW.
I found this tatty one in a LGS and after gentle polishing with Mother's and a microfiber cloth, it came back pretty well:
29-3.jpg
 
This is my first ever post here at SWforum.

I have a chance to purchase a Model 29-2. 44mag, nickel plated finish. Pinned and recessed. I've only seen pics, and I'm concerned that I won't be able to remove the bore solvent stains on the plating. They look like surface blemishes, and from what I can see, the rest of the finish looks okay. No flaking or bubbling. I'm tempted to buy the gun, hoping I can polish out the blemishes.

Has anyone had success removing bore solvent stains from nickel plating? If so, what's the best way to go about it?

If there's a chance I can't get out the stains and make the gun look as good as it can, I'll probably pass on it.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Daren

:)

Be careful. Too much soaking or time spent in solvents, such as Hoppes No. 9, will degrade nickel plating permanently. The only repair is a refinish. Figure the cost into the calculation and pay what you think it is worth LESS the cost of shipping and factory refinish.
 
A few years ago I passed on a 29-2 with deteriorated nickel - especially under the top of the 'goodyear' grips. Looked to be likely from solvent held relentlessly against the plating, with cloudy and non-polishable damage. Of course, possibly a chemical component in the grips was the culprit.

Bottom line - we tried Flitz in the store and it was too late.

Regards,

Dyson
 
Thanks to all for the very helpful posts. TAROMAN thanks for the pic. A great looking piece for sure.

To update you all, I did buy the gun yesterday. It was a local purchase, which made it less expensive. I drove a couple hours, had a chance to look the gun over very closely, and decided it was definitely worth the money.

According to the SN, which I looked up on another forum post (totally awesome post for me, since I don't have the SCSW) the gun was built in 1980.

The barrel pin sticks out a little on one side, but I don't care about that. No flaking, and no deep pits.

Once I finish cleaning it up, I'll post pics as a thank you to all who posted replies. You all were very helpful, and I sure appreciate it.

Thanks again.

Daren

PS - As promised, here are a few pics. Before and after. Not great quality, but you can see the improvement. Many hours with microfiber and Mother's Mag Polish. Finished off with 3 coats of Carnauba wax.

Only problem I have now is convincing myself to sell it. Thanks again everyone.
 

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