model 500 "walking" bullet problem.

kenosh

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I started reloading 500 ammo recently. I cast 440gr. bullets from wheel weights, use 37gr. h110 per round w/gas check and win LR primers, use liquid alox on bullets.
Put it together using Lee's deluxe pistol kit w/ lee dies. Got Redding profile crimp die for the crimp. I crimp the bullets at the first groove closest to tip of bullet.
After the first shot, remaining unexploded bullets in cylinder walk out of the brass.
Any corrective advice would be greatly appreciated
 
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Well, the obvious answer is that you are not crimping enough. Is there any way you can post a close up picture of the rounds in question? That would allow us to see the type of crimp and get a better answer for you.
 
You need a good stiff roll crimp. I am not sure if the Redding die does taper or roll.
 
+1 to the above posts. You need to take the expander ball out of your epander die, and measure it. It should be at least .004"-.005" under nominal bullet diameter to create a stong bullet pull, which helps keep bullets in the cases, and also creates uniform ignition.

BTW, the correct term is "unfired rounds", not "unexploded bullets". You don't want to give the impression to someone who doesn't understand, that you are doing something illegal:eek:, and the bullets shouldn't be exploding;).
 
Gun 4 Fun says good stuff. He is correct with the expander ball. But if your sizing die doesn't reduce the brass enough to provide enough tension on your bullets, then the crimp won't do much to help.
Dillon of Scottsdale tells me that once you seat your bullet, with no crimp, that you should be able to take that loaded cartridge and push it on your worktable, bullet down, with lots of force, and still NOT be able to push the bullet into the case. Now that works for me, and I'm pushing maybe 20 pounds worth with my arms, IF my sizing die gives me a brass i.d. that is about .006" smaller than the cast lead bullet.
So my first thought is to check your brass i.d. right out of the sizing die. Fix that first. Then reduce the diameter of the expander ball so that it doesn't work against you.
Marshall Stanton @ Beartooth Bullets says that the Redding Profile Crimp die is the best thing out there. I use it with my .45 Colt; don't have one yet for .44, but will soon. Check out his Beartooth technical manual ($15) on his website; a great collection of tables, graphs, data, experience (lots) and an excellent reference manual. I just bought one for a friend.
Hope this helps.
Sonny
 
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I started reloading 500 ammo recently. I cast 440gr. bullets from wheel weights, use 37gr. h110 per round w/gas check and win LR primers, use liquid alox on bullets.
Put it together using Lee's deluxe pistol kit w/ lee dies. Got Redding profile crimp die for the crimp. I crimp the bullets at the first groove closest to tip of bullet.
After the first shot, remaining unexploded bullets in cylinder walk out of the brass.
Any corrective advice would be greatly appreciated

All the above is good advice.Tight bullet/case fit is very important.A good roll crimp is simply the finishing touch.

Another point is the powder.I don't personally load the 500 S&W and don't have data in front of me but make sure your load with that powder is not an underload.It needs pressure and load density to perform properly.
 
..........and don't be afraid to roll crimp! Crimp it good! Not to the point of causing the case walls to buldge out, but good and crimped. I know, or have known guys in the past,(and there may even be some here on this forum for all I know) who just can't bring themselves to crimp properly, for fear of fatiguing their case mouths too early.:rolleyes: That is being penny wise and pound foolish when it comes to reloading good and properly made ammo, not to mention that a bullet that walks, can ruin a good hunt, or end your life, if you are hunting something big with teeth and claws.:eek:
 
I have alittle more light on the subject now, thanks guys.
 
Check your Lee expander die > I bet its too big also you need to watch the type of brass . all brass is not the same . Rem tends to run thinner than others. That becomes very important on the heavy loads and the expander . If you can have the front part of the lee turned so it is only a guide and let the top bell the case only
 
I don't care whatever Dillon or other reputable company says and I can only speak from my own experience.
Yes to above comment about sizing & expander ball but when it comes to crimping for 500, Redding Profile Crimp die is about the worst I ever experienced. It nothing but helps for the bullet to jump! I've tried RCBS, Lee (both standard and Custom Factory crimp die), and Redding Profile Crimp Die so far but in my experience, RCBS and Lee crimp dies are far better and RCBS seems to have slight edge over Lee. I'm still trying to experiment and just orderd Hornady die set but in my opinion, if the bullets are hard, brass is relatively new, dies are from RCBS or Lee, there is nothing you can do to COMPLETLY prevent bullet jump, if you are looking upper end performance from 500S&W.
 
I have learned to seat the bullet in one step and then go back and apply the crimp. Seems to work better.
Also, when you bell the case mouth make sure you only expand it as little as possible.
One last question, what are your bullets sized at? If they are to small nothing will ever fix your problem.
 

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