model 66

mod15

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I have a 2 3/4inch stainless model 66 in 357 mag It has the lightest single AND double action trigger pull I have ever seen. It is extremely accurate. I can (off sandbags ) shoot all in one elongated hole at 15 yards. I tried some factory 158 grain jacketed softpoints 357 mag in it (sellior and bellot) and it shot a 3/4 inch group at 15 yards. But after I shot these it kinda bound up and was out of time. I didnt shoot it anymore and then took home and cleaned it good and now it is not out of time. I can cock it slowly and it drops in the cylinder notches fine. I did notice there is some endshake although it doesnt seem like alot. I will measure it with feeler gages. Its just that I'm not used to seeing ANY play like that with my other revolvers (Colts and Rugers). Have you ever experienced this from the model 66? I'm leary of shooting 357 mags in it. Im thinking maybe i should stick with just 38 specials It is sooo accurate and has such an incredibly silky trigger pulls I am afraid to shoot mags in it now. Oh yes I bought it used.
 
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Hi, Welcome to the forum. I hope we can feed your revolver addiction.
just some info measure the barrel from the front of the cylinder to the tip of the barrel. the 66 was procuced with a 2.5",3",4"6" barrels

I have shot K frames for over 20 years. I have found several things to be true on the 19 and 66's.****I am no expert nor do I claim to be I just know what I know from expierencing a few things**** others may have similar or different expierences.

1.) The 66 was designed to shoot a steady diet of .38 special with the occasional .357 magnum.

2.) S&W reccomends that you shoot 158grain .357 magnum bullets through the gun..The forcing cone can crack with the higher pressures of 125 grain bullets. I cracked my model 19's forcing cone. It is a pain to find a replacement.

3.) Lead bullets are fine in the gun BUT!!!! They seem to clog up the gun and make it bind up. It also makes you have to clean it twice as much. Jacketed rounds seem to cure the problem.

4.) Cheap ammunition also seems to affect the gun such as accuracy and powder burn or stippiling. causing it to become really dirty.

5.) factoy ammunition from Winchester,Remington,Speer and Federal seems to produce the best shooting results along with burning pretty clean.

This is what I know and have expierenced for myself. I am sure everyone else will have their own expierences, advise and comments.

Hope this helps again welcome to the forum.
 
panamajack310, Thank you for the welcome and VERY good info. on the 66. Frankly I have never shot a snubbie (2.5 inches I believe it is) that was this incredibly accurate. The single action trigger pull is so light its a little scary But it doesnt push off when I tested the hammer. Also the double action is almost effortless. I rarely shoot double action but this would be a great gun to learn on I believe I could,actually shoot as good double action as single with this particluar revolver.I'm thinking the previous owner must have had some custom work done on the sears or something.
I appreciate your knowledge on the 357 mag. loads. I think I will just stay awy from them with this gun. I may try to improve the endshake condition though.
 
I have carried a S&W .357 as a back-up gun for 15 years. I always shot 100 rounds of .357 magnum a year for qualification. THe revolvers were designed for Police use. To practice with .38 specials and carry .357 magnum for duty loads. Shooting .357 magnum on occasion will not hurt the gun. If you are wanting to shoot a steady diet of 357 mag. go buy a 686..They were specifically designed to eat a steady diet of .357mags.
 
Just sold my 66 for this very reason. It's a beautiful gun, but when it says ".357 Magnum" on the barrel, it should be able to shoot them. Not a few times a year, either. If I wanna touch off some .357's I should be able to without worrying if I'm gonna screw up a gun that is no longer made.
 
My 4" M66 has had at least 2,000 .357 mag. loads (mostly 158gr. jhp) without a problem.
I have had M29s go out of time and an early M67 with galling hammer and trigger.
 
Just sold my 66 for this very reason. It's a beautiful gun, but when it says ".357 Magnum" on the barrel, it should be able to shoot them. Not a few times a year, either. If I wanna touch off some .357's I should be able to without worrying if I'm gonna screw up a gun that is no longer made.

Yes, that is a litttle disheartening, I agree.
 
I disagree with the opinion that the 66 will not hold up to extended magnum use.

With all due respect to my esteemed colleague panamajack310, I think the 66 holds up better than the other K-frame magnums to extended 357 use. Even with the vaunted 125 grain. Only last week I saw a photo of a 66 with a cracked forcing cone, the first one I've ever seen....or heard of.......in 39 years. So, does it happen? Yes, but with less frequency than the IL's self engaging, in my experience. I've personally seen three of those. So does that make it an issue?

I've two 66's in the herd right now that are ex-LEO trades. The 66 no dash has over 2500 357's by me, and according to the previous owner "thousands of 125 grain 357's through it."

It exhibits some slight erosion of the forcing cone, no end shake, and locks up tight.

My 66-1 has over 4000 357's through it, mostly 158 grain, but 110 grain 357 (1 case) also. It is LNIB and one of my most accurate revolvers.

With proper cleaning, minimal maintenance, use of factory ammo only, I don't think the average shooter could afford to buy enough 357 to ruin a model 66. My 0.02.

I do find it amusing that as frequently as the current production S&W revolvers have problems, like failures to go bang due to short firing pins, and unintended IL engagements, the alleged "weakness" of K-frame magnums is even a concern.

If anyone wants to get rid of their pre lock 66's PM me. I'll give them a good home. Regards 18DAI.
 
I stay away from the 125 gr. magnums in my 66 but that's mostly because I'm a wimp and I find that the recoil, blast noise, and flash from that round are more than I want to put up with for target shooting. On the other hand, I love 158 gr. magnums and so does my 66. Smith has only cautioned against firing a heavy diet of the light stuff (125 gr. or lighter) and has never suggested that the heavier magnum rounds, particularly the 158s, will damage the gun.

Personally, I think that the 66 is the finest all-round revolver ever made by Smith.
 
I have a 2.5" M-19 that split the forcing cone with 148g HBWC and 2.7 g of Bullseye, so I don't think the problem is only with high pressure light bullet loads.
 
I have a 2.5" M-19 that split the forcing cone with 148g HBWC and 2.7 g of Bullseye, so I don't think the problem is only with high pressure light bullet loads.

WOW that's pretty bad -with just a practice load. I shoot 3 grains of reddot with 148 grain hbwc but I would never expect that with this relatively light load.
 
josephthreedogs was it a 19-5 by any chance? Regards 18DAI.
 
I disagree with the opinion that the 66 will not hold up to extended magnum use.

With all due respect to my esteemed colleague panamajack310, I think the 66 holds up better than the other K-frame magnums to extended 357 use. Even with the vaunted 125 grain. Only last week I saw a photo of a 66 with a cracked forcing cone, the first one I've ever seen....or heard of.......in 39 years. So, does it happen? Yes, but with less frequency than the IL's self engaging, in my experience. I've personally seen three of those. So does that make it an issue?

I've two 66's in the herd right now that are ex-LEO trades. The 66 no dash has over 2500 357's by me, and according to the previous owner "thousands of 125 grain 357's through it."

It exhibits some slight erosion of the forcing cone, no end shake, and locks up tight.

My 66-1 has over 4000 357's through it, mostly 158 grain, but 110 grain 357 (1 case) also. It is LNIB and one of my most accurate revolvers.

With proper cleaning, minimal maintenance, use of factory ammo only, I don't think the average shooter could afford to buy enough 357 to ruin a model 66. My 0.02.

I do find it amusing that as frequently as the current production S&W revolvers have problems, like failures to go bang due to short firing pins, and unintended IL engagements, the alleged "weakness" of K-frame magnums is even a concern.

If anyone wants to get rid of their pre lock 66's PM me. I'll give them a good home. Regards 18DAI.

+1.
 
Ok, let me clear one thing. Like I said before S&W actually designed the K rame .357 for police use. Law enforcement agencies wanted a medium frame revolver that could shoot the .357 magnum round and was lighter and more compact than the N frames.
Every one knows that if you look at the forcing cone the 6 oclock position of the barrel is thinner and flat on the bottom. THis is the design flaw on the K frames.
Every one I know who including myself and several cops that has a 19 or 66 who have had the forcing cone crack, has the problem in the same spot the 6 oclock position. I am not saying that the 19 or 66 can not handle several thousand rounds of .357...I am sure my model 19 that had the forcing cone crack has well over 15,000 rounds thru it. Age, Metalurgy and pressure of the round fired all add up and cause a failure...

Basiclly what I am saying is the 19 and 66 K frame revolver is a mechanical tool that can fail. It does have a point of weakness to it. It is more suseptable to this failure due to the forcing cone.
If one wants to make their K frame .357 last use it as it was designed for. Practice with 38 spl. and carry and shoot occasional magnums.
 
I have carried a S&W .357 as a back-up gun for 15 years. I always shot 100 rounds of .357 magnum a year for qualification. THe revolvers were designed for Police use. To practice with .38 specials and carry .357 magnum for duty loads. Shooting .357 magnum on occasion will not hurt the gun. If you are wanting to shoot a steady diet of 357 mag. go buy a 686..They were specifically designed to eat a steady diet of .357mags.

Panamajack is right on. Practice with .38 specials and only carry .357 for self defense. I would only shoot 158 grain hollowpoints in any 19/66. I have a model 66 and 686. I use the 686 to shoot 357s. 686 was made to shoot 357s. 19/66 were 38 cal revolvers that you could shoot 357s only if you had too. Plus this gives you a reason to buy a 686. 686 is one of the best all round revolvers Smith and Wesson made.
 
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I think if my 66 broke I'd have a shorter barrel installed and go by another 4", then I'd have two great guns. Sound workable?
 
I think if my 66 broke I'd have a shorter barrel installed and go by another 4", then I'd have two great guns. Sound workable?

Can you still get 66 barrels?

I saw a 66 no dash in good shape at a gun show for $650, could have got it for $600, Is that a good deal?
 

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