Model of 1905 Timing Problem?

[masiaka]

I have an Model of 1905 made circa 1915 in .32-20. Before I tell you what is happening I want you to know that I am only dry firing the revolver. I wouldn't put any rounds through it without getting to checked out by a gunsmith.

That out of the way, the gun functions perfectly in single action but the double action gives me trouble. I can only pull the trigger back a few millimeters before it binds up. When I do this, the cylinder rotates part of the way into position, but not as much as it should. If I completely release the trigger with the cylinder rotated part way and then try to pull the trigger again, the cylinder will rotate all the way into position and the hammer will fall. This happens for every (empty) round in the cylinder.

What are the odds that I can get this fixed? If I take it to a gunsmith could be do anything about this problem?

 

[Mike McLellan]

Sure, it can be fixed. It's not the timing. Something is busted, or fixed, when it didn't need fixing. I'm not as capable a pistol smith to diagnose the problem without examining your gun. There are plenty of those around.
1. I would eliminate the possibility of the main spring knuckling against the hammer by making sure the strain screw is tight.
2. Then, with the side plate removed, I might check the studs (hammer, trigger, & rebound slide) to make sure they're not broken.
3. I would work the action slowly. and pay particular attention to the trigger cam engaging the hammer foot.
Take your time and follow each part as it engages each other part. It's a fascinating process and, with a little luck, you'll find the problem. Then, take it to the gunsmith and tell him what you found.
You have one of the finest engineering marvels ever produced. Have fun with it, and let us know what you come up with.

 

[masiaka]

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

 

[DWalt]

Start with removing the side plate (the right way) to see if you can identify the problem while cycling the action. There are videos of M&P disassembly on YouTube.

 

[tlay]

I ran into this problem on an I frame 32 pre-war. Someone had nickel plated the entire gun including the hammer and trigger. I found a hammer from one sourse and a trigger from another. If I cocked it in single action it worked. But it would not cycle in double action. I took the side plate off and could see that the trigger was not clearing the foot of the hammer and was not letting it reset. I took the trigger out and was able to take a small amount of material off to let it reset. If you are not an experienced gunsmith do NOT grind on your hammer or trigger. Take it to someone who is experienced in revolvers.

 

[TIMETRIPPER]

First take off the grips/stocks, then soak the entire gun in Ed's Red or automatic transmission fluid for a day or two. See how to mix up a batch of Eds red here: Ed's Red' Bore Cleaner
That will help to loosen up any hardened grease and accumulated grim inside the action and will lube it up nicely. Afterwards you can take off the side plate and hose out the insides with some Remoil or other aerosol gun leaner to wash out any remaining particles. I've used this technique on several dirty old revolvers and it worked great.
John