Patrick L
Member
This is a story in itself, but to be brief, last summer I was GIVEN a 99%, absolutely pristine 1963 Browning A5 light 12. It had a factory installed Poly choke on it. While I don't deny they work exactly as advertised, I just never cared for the looks of them. I do realize this was a hot setup in 1963, but hey it's now 2022.
A5 barrels are stupid expensive, both Belgian and Japanese. I managed to find a finish challenged vent barrel for a reasonable price on Ebay. It had a series of checkerboard patterns in the finish the entire length. I subsequently found out those marks are caused by a gun rusting inside an old fake leather gun case. The pattern is the imprint of the fabric lining. The actual rust was removed, but the marks are etched in the steel.
So I decided to take the plunge. I was posting about alternatives to buying very expensive bluing tanks, burners, etc. from Brownells since I needed something to boil the barrel in. I spent a few weeks accumulating stuff, then I started.
Prepping the barrel was the longest part. I stripped the old blue off, and starting at the muzzle, I took a very fine cut file and a needle file and carefully draw filed each spot. Most were very small. the largest was maybe the size of a dime. Then polish with 220 and then 320 wet or dry. Did shoe shine first, then parallel with barrel. This literally took weeks, working a little each evening.
Actually applying the solution was easy, except for the rib. Instructions said not to let it drip, just wet the steel with long lengthwise strokes. I ended up using a model brush to "paint" inside each rib vent. It actually didn't take that long to do that.
I love Mark Novak videos. I got the idea of a garment moving box and a child's room vaporizer (which I had still!!) to make a steam cabinet
After about an hour, I had this. No turning back now!!!
I jury rigged a boiling tank out of a bar organizer tray. I didn't realize when I ordered it that there were openings at the ends, but I also read of someone using red RTV on a boiling tank. I guess I'd learn if it truly was temp resistant! I ended up buying a cheap Coleman camp stove which gave me two burners, then I Rube Goldberged my propane torch at the end for a third. I put the tank on two riser blocks with aluminum channel to shield heat since I didn't think the Coleman could take the weight of the tank and water. Clamp it all in the trusty old Workmate and:
And in actual use
Fifteen minutes later I had this
Carding wheel in my drill press
And I ended up with this, which I was quite pleased with, and it was only the first cycle. To the right of ring has been carded, to the left still velvety
All the videos said keep repeating until you were happy with the color. I ended up doing two more cycles, for a total of three. I didn't think it would get any better than this
So I quit. I think the match to the receiver is pretty good
The only thing I will do differently is the final cure. In his Midway USA video, as a cure Larry Potterfield suggested a liberal application of boiled linseed oil, let set for 24 hours then wipe off. After 24 hours I had a varnish like coating I had to use acetone to remove! Other videos suggested non detergent motor oil, or even used motor oil that had had all the detergents burned out.
Also, I subsequently saw several videos that used a PVC pipe over a steam pot to convert the red rust using steam. I must say that looks interesting, but I had already committed to the boiling approach. Maybe next project I'll try that way.
This has been fun!
A5 barrels are stupid expensive, both Belgian and Japanese. I managed to find a finish challenged vent barrel for a reasonable price on Ebay. It had a series of checkerboard patterns in the finish the entire length. I subsequently found out those marks are caused by a gun rusting inside an old fake leather gun case. The pattern is the imprint of the fabric lining. The actual rust was removed, but the marks are etched in the steel.
So I decided to take the plunge. I was posting about alternatives to buying very expensive bluing tanks, burners, etc. from Brownells since I needed something to boil the barrel in. I spent a few weeks accumulating stuff, then I started.
Prepping the barrel was the longest part. I stripped the old blue off, and starting at the muzzle, I took a very fine cut file and a needle file and carefully draw filed each spot. Most were very small. the largest was maybe the size of a dime. Then polish with 220 and then 320 wet or dry. Did shoe shine first, then parallel with barrel. This literally took weeks, working a little each evening.
Actually applying the solution was easy, except for the rib. Instructions said not to let it drip, just wet the steel with long lengthwise strokes. I ended up using a model brush to "paint" inside each rib vent. It actually didn't take that long to do that.
I love Mark Novak videos. I got the idea of a garment moving box and a child's room vaporizer (which I had still!!) to make a steam cabinet
After about an hour, I had this. No turning back now!!!
I jury rigged a boiling tank out of a bar organizer tray. I didn't realize when I ordered it that there were openings at the ends, but I also read of someone using red RTV on a boiling tank. I guess I'd learn if it truly was temp resistant! I ended up buying a cheap Coleman camp stove which gave me two burners, then I Rube Goldberged my propane torch at the end for a third. I put the tank on two riser blocks with aluminum channel to shield heat since I didn't think the Coleman could take the weight of the tank and water. Clamp it all in the trusty old Workmate and:
And in actual use
Fifteen minutes later I had this
Carding wheel in my drill press
And I ended up with this, which I was quite pleased with, and it was only the first cycle. To the right of ring has been carded, to the left still velvety
All the videos said keep repeating until you were happy with the color. I ended up doing two more cycles, for a total of three. I didn't think it would get any better than this
So I quit. I think the match to the receiver is pretty good
The only thing I will do differently is the final cure. In his Midway USA video, as a cure Larry Potterfield suggested a liberal application of boiled linseed oil, let set for 24 hours then wipe off. After 24 hours I had a varnish like coating I had to use acetone to remove! Other videos suggested non detergent motor oil, or even used motor oil that had had all the detergents burned out.
Also, I subsequently saw several videos that used a PVC pipe over a steam pot to convert the red rust using steam. I must say that looks interesting, but I had already committed to the boiling approach. Maybe next project I'll try that way.
This has been fun!
