Need advice on buying a table saw...

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Almost two years ago, I posted here looking for advice on buying a cordless drill/screw gun. Not only did I get great advice, I got a great deal on a new DeWalt courtesy of forum member kozmic, whom I can't thank enough! I love it! So, this old welder is back looking for input on buying a table saw. As well as the DeWalt screw gun, I have a DeWalt compound miter saw. I'm thinking of going DeWalt on the table saw too....but I really have no idea what I need or what to look for, or how much to spend. I removed all the window trim inside my house and installed all new windows since I was getting the house re-sided (new construction type windows, not "replacement" windows). Wife is getting sick of not having trim around the new windows inside...can't blame her. Also need to do trim around two new sliding glass doors. All advice and input appreciated! Thanks. :)
 
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The miter saw would seem like the best choice for doing trim. The best table saw I've seen recently was a Kobalt fold up one at Lowe's. It had a lot of great features for a very reasonable price. This is the type a contractor would be able to put in the back of a pickup truck or a homeowner could store in a small space.
 
Nearly everything I have is DeWalt, and am most satisfied. My table saw was a Delta, and it burned out in less than two years. For the little use it had, it was a waste of money. Table saws are just so dangerous, I will not consider replacing the Delta.
 
I have a old Craftsman with a 8" blade it works on a lot of jobs but if I was to buy a new one I would go for one with a larger blade. That way it's easy to rip down thicker wood.
 
Find a saw with the most stable base and a fence that stays in place rigidly, but easily.
ALWAYS check the blade angle with a framing square to make sure that
the blade is parallel with the saw frame.

I've seen some new saws that the blade was at an angle with the frame.
With that you would never get a true square cut.

Also, buy the best miter gauge you can to fit the saw.

I also incorporated the saw table into an 8'x8' assembly table in my shop.
This way, I can cut 4x8 sheets of plywood and or lay out anything for a build.
 
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Probably 5 or 6 years back I bought a dewlat dwe7480 10" compact table saw and has been a great all around portable saw. Should I need another, I'd buy the same thing again. Suppose they are still around, I believe I paid about $ 300.00 for it.

terry
 
I suggest the small portable table saw as well. A big saw will take up a lot of room for something you probably won't need very often. A good quality 12" compound miter saw will do most projects, a good quality skill saw and saw horses is easier for ripping plywood. Unless you plan on building furnature and cabinets every weekend, a simple contractor table saw for $200 or less is all you need.
 
My saw's a Craftsman from the late 70's. It's a 240 volt 12" table saw. The new saws are nice but this thing's a beast.

That's it over on the right side tucked between my home made router table and beer "fridge.


Yeah, I know, I gotta refinish it. The cast iron top has some surface rust.

The saw and router table are both on mobile bases.
 
if you want it to be somewhat moveable try the DeWalt.


If you want a stationary saw and you have the money try Delta Unisaw or a SawStop. I hear it is about impossible to cut your finger off with the SawStop.
 
My great grandpa (cabinetmaker) who had all his fingers at 96 when he passed away, taught me a lesson about power saws. He told me if I always watch the blade, I won't put my fingers into it. Sounds simple, but it works, I've made it to 66 (only 33 years to tie his record) and have all my fingers. My advice with tools, buy the best you can afford, it pays off in the end. I used the small Delta saw for 10 years when all I had was a single car garage. 10 years ago I built my retirement shop and bought a bigger saw.
 

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My saw's a Craftsman from the late 70's. It's a 240 volt 12" table saw. The new saws are nice but this thing's a beast.

That's it over on the right side tucked between my home made router table and beer "fridge.


Yeah, I know, I gotta refinish it. The cast iron top has some surface rust.

The saw and router table are both on mobile bases.

I had an early 70's 10" craftsman cast iron with cast aluminum extensions. Great saw. Works on thumbs too
 
I had a Craftsman cast iron 10 inch but it had steel extensions. It was a very good one but definitely not portable. My workshop was something I really hated to give up.
 
If as a homeowner and you have room go with a 10" contractor saw. They offer better rip fences and miter gauges. Specialized cutting such as dado heads and sanding blades worker better. Mobile wheel kits can be added so you can move them around the work area. My choices in these types have been Delta and Craftsman. 120v motor should be 15amps. A convertable 110/220 is better. I ran mine on 220 but if you plan on using it in different areas stick with 120. A 20 amp breaker is useful too if wired for such. My hsop was all 12gauge except 220 circuits which were 10,, 8 and 6 depending on what tool it was to be plugged into it Table top saws are okay but use is limited. I used Delta, Mikita and Dewalt at work. On my own I chose the Ryobi BT3000. No longer made but it was the shizz for accurate work at a job. Wish I still had it. I always used Freud blades unless I knew I was gong to ruin one like cutting lots of high density particle board or laminates and such where the glue/binder was hard on a tooths edge and sharpness. Good luck.
 
I don't have room for a full size table saw but wanted one that was portable and did a good job. It boiled down to two choices Dewalt or Bosch, I went with the Bosch 4100-09 jobsite saw. It's easy to store, sets up easily and cuts great. When I need to use it I just take the vehicles out of the garage set it up and start cutting.
 
An inexpensive bench top saw would work fine for that.Make sure you square up the rip fence each time you adjust it for width
You will need to plane or sand the edge that your trim is fastened to in order to remove blade marks on the reveal
 
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